Post or bead with a tang sight?

COREY

COREY

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I am thinking of putting a Marbles tang sight on my newly acquired Puma 92 carbine, but I am not sure of what front sight to use. I have a Mossberg pump with a ghost ring back and a post on the front with a bead on it (Marbles I think) and it is super slick to bring up quick and shoot (center bead, cover target, pull trigger). I am wondering if I should do this with this rifle; I most likely will not shoot it past 50 yards.

What is your opinion? Do you use a tang and bead and cover the target? Do you use a tang and bead and place the bead at 6 oclock? Do you use a tang and post and use a 6 oclock hold?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
For me, tang and bead, 6 o'clock hold. I prefer a 1/16" ivory bead, but for 50-yard shooting, the 3/32" bead is likely better.
Most of my peep-sight shooting has been with a receiver sight, however I have used the tang sight on my Savage 99.
 
What are you shooting at? 6 o'clock hold has to factor in the target size and distance. To me, either you use a bead and cover the target, or a post and shoot for top of post being point of impact. 6 o'clock is for shooting at paper targets where its more accurate to line up a front sight with the bottom edge of a target than its centre of mass, but that assumes the impact is half the diamater of the target higher than the top of the bead. What if the target varies in size and distance?
 
I bought it primarily for shooting at the pistol range to give me some rifle practice without loading for another caliber. I would like to use it for small game hunting in the future, but 95% of the rounds out of it will be at the pistol range.
 
I think I'd stick with what you've had success with with the shotgun. The bead on the target seems fastest and most instinctive to me, although it gives up some accuracy as a tradeoff because it obscures small targets.
 
I shoot my 1908 Winnie 30-30 SRC with a Tang sight. I like to hold a 6 o'clock position so I can or would be able to see if the object I am trying to hit moved. I shoot at the range out to 100 yards comfortably And you have seen the guns I shoot as well as my son. Both of us hit the 200 yard gongs with open sighted 1906 30-30 levers. If at 50 yards, the bead would obliterate the centre of the paper target and you could not know if you are high or low. Try each way and use the way that is most comfortable for you.
 
I have quite limited experience with either set up but have found the aperture and bead with a 6 o'clock hold was deadly with my 250 Savage.
I used a 6" bullseye at 100yds which seems to be very close to the same size as my bead. Think it is 1/16", a gold Marbles Sheard.

My Tbolt 22 has the aperture sights and post bead but i have never shot as well with the post set up.

I think the aperture will make a big difference for you doing target work as well.
 
Grizzlypeg, you and I wouldn't find many differences on our views on iron sights of the aperature variety!
The six o'clock hold is for target shooting, with proper size aiming marks, as you said. A nice, small bead on a 22 is good, if it is sighted for centre hold. My much preferred hunting sight with big rifle is a proper post, sighted in to hit at top of post. I did a lot of hunting with my old Husqvarna 30-06 with a Lyman 48 aperature sight and a post. The factory did an excellent job of designing the post. The rear of the front post was wider than the front of the post, and the top had a gentle slope from front to back. Thus, there was no glare, whatsoever, from it. I shot a wide variety of game with it, including mountain goats and wolves and I never felt the slightest disadvantage with it, as compared to a scope.
 
My early rifle training was with aperture and aperture target sights. That has stuck with me, and I am far more comfortable when shooting at game, to use that bead as a dead on hold.
When I put the bead on the game I'm shooting at, I was the shot to go home where the bead is sitting, not several inches higher.
I still use the six o'clock for target and sighting in, I just remember that when I actually hit at 6'oclock, that's because I aimed there.

I should point out that I hunt thick brush most of the time, and pretty much all my shots are very close.
 
When shooting with an aperture rear sight I prefer a rectangular post front sight. The post gives a better index of elevation than does a bead. The post is easier to focus on than the bead. Too often the shape of the bead allows it to become lost in the background. The flat top of the post against a contrasting background is always sharp and distinct and is far more forgiving in poor light, provided that it is not too narrow. A diagonal mark made across the front post can be an aid to focus. When the mark is in focus, you know you have not shifted your focus to the target. You can't do that with a bead.

A dead on hold is superior to a 6:00 hold, regardless of the target. In bullseye shooting, the space you leave between the top of the front sight and the bottom of the bull becomes indistinct and fuzzy. As a result shot to shot consistency suffers. On game if you do not aim where you want the bullet to go you will shoot low.
 
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