Post your projects!

mrclean89

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
81   0   0
Location
Nanaimo, BC
Afternoon everyone, I thought it would be fun to have an ongoing thread for us blackpowder guys to post in like all the other forums.

Since most of the guys I have met or heard of who are into blackpowder tend to like tinkering and projects this would be a good place to post em so we could all enjoy. Most of us it seems also have several projects going at the same time.

So first we have this little guy, I picked it up at a gunshow for 80 bucks. It was a 22 gauge percussion shotgun in really bad shape.
photo-1910.jpg

Someone years ago had tried to take the breachplug out with a pair of vice grips and it had deep gashes all around the breech area of the barrel. It is antique as the belgian proof marks show, also the stock was in bad shape. So I figured it desered a refinish. I started by stripping the stock and reshaping it a little. Touched up the inletting and trimming the barrel back a bit.

Next I took to filing the barrel to get all the pittin and big gashes out. It took me about 20 hours to get it all out. I managed to save one proof mark as the others were destroyed by the vice grips. Here is sits with the barrel filed and all assembled.
photo-2373.jpg


After that I restained the stock with two coats of wood filler follwed by about 12 coats of walnut stain every 30mins rubbed by hand after each application. I wanted to give it an old used look so I didnt polish it up with oil and left it dull instead.
photo-199.jpg

photo-1919.jpg


Now im in the process of sanding and polishing the metal up to 600 or so to reblue it, I havent decided yet if I will blue the lock plate or not.

Next on the projects is one that requires only a little more touching up and sanding. I got this matchlock on a trade on here a few months back and finally found some time to finish it. When I got it The hammer and trigger were very very basic, they worked but left alot to be desired in the looks department.

So here is the hammer when I got it with the new trigger i made.
photo-1124.jpg


Next is the hammer I built, I took the original one and cut the hammer off to keep the screw stud in the back. I filed down the top to level it out then built up the area around it with weld. Next I took a 1/2" peice of steel and heated it up and twisted it with a tap wrench. I filed down one end into a notch and welded it into place, afterwards I filed it and ground it into a nice round shape. Afterwards i made two dragons head type things out of 1/8" plate then filed the twisted steel down to 1/8" in the center and welded the two heads onto it and shaped it.
photo-2410.jpg



After all that I heated it up and bent it to get the right throw. Like an idiot when I had it all done I went to mount it and it was 45 degrees in the wrong direction. So I had to heat up the screw in the back and twist it to get it to throw right.
photo-1061.jpg


The last thing to do was bend the heads out a little to get enough space for the matchcord. Then I drilled a hole through tapped one side and made a turnscrew to tighten it around the cord. All that is left now is to polish and file it.
photo-851.jpg

photo-1590.jpg

photo-198.jpg


After I had the gun finished I realized it was way to heavy to hold up off hand comfortably. So I made this on the lathe and forged the top part much the same way as the hammer so they matched. Still have to polish and finish filing it.
photo-200.jpg

photo-1325.jpg


Also I spent a month or so trying out different kinds of paper and designs to find a good cartridge for loading my flintlocks. I finally found that the best paper is those big booklets you see in schools for teacher to draw on. I took a dowel sized to the caliber and cut the paper in a sort of triangle shape with sqaure edge. I wrapped the paper around the dowel with the ball then dipped the end in heated candle wax. Next a quick tie with some string, pour 80grns of powder in the end and tie it off.

Works great for several shots without cleaning, and also makes reloading alot faster.
photo-256.jpg



Cheers, McLean .L. Welsh
 
Thanks I sure have and these are just the blackpowder related projects ive been working on.

What about projects of yours ? You guys most have something going on.

Cheers, McLean
 
Kind of have one sitting in a neutral state. A Remington rolling block action for a future BP 45-70 project. I neat little detail is this action is marked Santa Fe Policia with what looks like the Spanish word edit: maybe Jefatura, Spanish for headquarters according to posts at the Remington Society. This is most likely from the city of Santa Fe, in old Mexico, or maybe even the city/province of the same name in Argentina.
Mrclean89 you have some really neat stuff there friend!

Edit: So on this note, where's a good place to shop for a 45-70 barrel blank in Canada guys?
 
Last edited:
I bought a 10 gauge percussion shotgun and after some use something on the inside of the lock snapped.. bought a new back action lock exactly like the one in op's pic but it doesnt fit.. ugh i miss my shotgun haha :(
 
I bought a 10 gauge percussion shotgun and after some use something on the inside of the lock snapped.. bought a new back action lock exactly like the one in op's pic but it doesnt fit.. ugh i miss my shotgun haha :(

Have you tried to fix the broken one? They are a fairly basic mechanical design, It could be something as simple to replace as a spring or tumbler.

Maybe you can swap a part or two out of the unfitting replacement lock?
 
Heres my recent project i bought this gun in the EE and it needs tLC the Bayonet didnt work and the hammer tip needs to be fixed but what a cool gun all orignal to.
Its a Rogers bayonet pistol used by the Police forces in the UK back in the 1840s.
I fixed this bayonet it wasnt working right.
now it works perfect ready to poke in some rotten carcass before being thrust into a target more died from the infections from this blade no doubt than the 50 caliber rd ball it shoots.
Very happy with it its really my second percussion pistol :)
Blade is sharp to!
Gun has silver inlay really a well made gun lock works good just needs new hammer tip.

How would you guys fix the hammer tip?
Im thinking drill a hole down in there fit in a tight pin then drill the same hole in the new hammer tip then join them together so the pin inside adds strength ......

P1010001_89.jpg


P1010003_89.jpg


P1010005_88.jpg
 
Last edited:
How would you guys fix the hammer tip?
Im thinking drill a hole down in there fit in a tight pin then drill the same hole in the new hammer tip then join them together so the pin inside adds strength ......

Wash your mouf out with soap der boy. I would silver solder (high temp stuff) a piece of mild steel to the end of the hammer and file it to shape afterwards Should only leave a thin white line.

cheers mooncoon
 
Current muzzle loading project is refinishing a fowler barrel. I will have some photos up in a day or so. The underrib was loose so I took that off and still have to make a couple of pipes for it and silver solder them to the rib. That way I don't have to worry about loosening them when I solder the rib to the barrel.

Barrel is an odd one and a bit of a challenge to drawfile; it not a simple round barrel but has a flat along the top plus another flat on each side at 45 degrees to the top flat but the sides and bottom are round

cheers mooncoon
 
I finally got around to uploading some photos of the fowler barrel. Hopefully they give some idea of the process. I rusted the barrel with a solution sort of from Angier and sort of from Oscar Gaddy's writings. In between rustings, I carded the barrel with wet steel wool and then etched it a bit with ferric chloride followed by another rusting. I finished by not carding the final etch with ferric chloride to leave a pattern but also have a brown tinge to the light portions. Final photo is of a weld mark at the join between two skelps while the barrel was being made.

cheers mooncoon

Kevinfouler.jpg


Underribsolderingb.jpg


Barrelrusting1b.jpg


day2earlyb.jpg


day2b.jpg


Barrelrusting2b.jpg


Weldmarkb.jpg
 
Looking good, well worth the effort!

I had that finishing done to a barrel on my .54 years ago, by a fellow in PG who knew what he was doing; I browned the rest of the furniture myself with the usual Birchwood Casey or whatever brand chemical brown (it was 20 years ago, memory is foggy). To this day, you can immediately see the difference on the barrel vs. the rest - not that the chemical brown on the furniture is "bad", but the barrel is defintely a cut above. And it doesn't scrape off like the chemical browning can. I just keep it oiled.

As for the drawfiling...that is a lot of work, I know. Looks great.
 
Back
Top Bottom