Powder Coat Lead Cast Bullets

Thanks for all your help guys. It's greatly appreciated. MDF thanks for taking the time to post what you did. I will place an order shortly.

In the mean time I picked up 8 oz of PC at Princess Auto yesterday to try out. It worked just fine as far as I can tell being new at this. Pretty straight forward. Not sure why I waited so long and researched so much. Answers were all right here.

Thanks again. Another convert to PC. Now to order a couple molds.
 
lpel said:
Thanks for all your help guys. It's greatly appreciated. MDF thanks for taking the time to post what you did. I will place an order shortly.

In the mean time I picked up 8 oz of PC at Princess Auto yesterday to try out. It worked just fine as far as I can tell being new at this. Pretty straight forward. Not sure why I waited so long and researched so much. Answers were all right here.

Thanks again. Another convert to PC. Now to order a couple molds.
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You're welcome!

Can you post pictures of your results with the Princess Auto powder?

I've been trying to get RAL 7004 SIGNAL GREY from Emerald Coatings to work with tumbling. Short answer: it doesn't :)
 
I found a powder coating gun on sale at Harbor (sp) Freight in the states for about $60. Best investment I made and so much quicker than fooling with tumbling, which didn't work consistently for me. You need a small air compressor running at about 10lb for the gun. Same powder as Princess Auto but at half the price. The red and blue colours worked great for me and have the flat black and yellow to try next. Toaster oven for $10 at Value Village does the 400 F. cooking at 20 minutes, which I do in the garage.
I haven't made a spray jig for pistol bullets yet but I have lots of grease lubed bullets for my .38 to shoot away first.
No leading in the rifles at the mild 1800 fps I've been loading for. May warm them up in the next batch to see how it works at above 2000 fps.
 
Big Uke said:
I've powder coated for my 9.3x57 mm Mauser with great results, as well as for a 30-06. I do size the bullets before and after powder coating, and don't use gas checks. I've finished a batch of 6.5 bullets and have yet to take them to the range, but have high hopes for them too. I hope they work well enough in my CG63 because that's one fun target rifle to play with and I'd love to reduce the feeding costs.
I coat only the rear of the bullets up to past the "driving bands". It feeds much better in my 30-06. Here's what the 280 grain NOE cast 9.3mm bullets look like after the powder coating;

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Those are awesome looking slugs, I am assuming you have a rack that is perforated the correct size for the boolits to just enter inverted to the driving band then gun-coat & cook. They don't appear to have any "base flashing" so I'm assuming they are cooked upside down. If so, what do you use for material for the rack and what do you do to mitigate "sticking" during curing.

I have a testing program planned along these lines when I finish another project I'm on that has consumed my time recently and would appreciate any info passed along so I don't waste time down a rabbit hole that has already been explored.
 
Sorry for the delay in answering, was out hiking without my desktop computer.
I made some jigs for the bullets using aluminum pans I bought at the second hand store and drilled them out to just the right size for the caliber I was powder coating. Have done 6.5mm and .308 as well;


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I found that using non-stick aluminum foil helped greatly in keeping the powder coating from sticking the bullets to the pan, just place dull side up before poking the bullets into the holes in the pan.


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