Powder coated with paint

philproulx

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hello

i just read a whole lot on cast boolits forum

lots of guys use powder coat for cast bullets

i've ordered powder paint and will try this out

no leading
sizing after the coating is applied
they smash the bullet to check if the coating is flaking

check this out
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?216599-Rangefinder-s-PC-Tumbler-Method
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?202316-HFPC-Boolits-Piglet-Method
 
I was reading the same threads a few days ago. Do you have an electrostatic powder coating gun or are you going to try tumbling them?
There is also the baked on enamel paint method and the epoxy paint method.

Epoxy paint method here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiFxAPtx4c0&feature=youtu.be

The enamel paint method is pretty much the same but with an oil-enamel paint instead.

I was looking at these methods but want to do more work into paper patching before I try something else. I don't know if it'll solve the leading issues in my Marlin micro groove barrels (.44 mag and .30-30) and want to try paper patching first. Some guys are reporting up to 3200fps in rifles using powder coating with no leading and jacketed accuracy.
 
Surely intrigued by this and will have to give one of these methods a try sometime. Thanks for the links to the info fellas.

Think it may be interesting to see if there were a method to leave the noses uncoated to increase expansion(hunting)while maintaining the speed and accuracy of a jacketed bullet.
 
Surely intrigued by this and will have to give one of these methods a try sometime. Thanks for the links to the info fellas.

Think it may be interesting to see if there were a method to leave the noses uncoated to increase expansion(hunting)while maintaining the speed and accuracy of a jacketed bullet.
i would not expect this to have any distinguishable result what so ever. It's actually laughable.

The reason you won't get led'ing in the barrel is because there is a buffer that burns off leaving no residue. Has nothing to do with a superior jacket. It's directly comparable to paper patching.
 
Not sure what you're saying is laughable but if it's concerning the soft point comment I'd agree. Wouldn't be practical of course but an uncoated nose it would seem would logically expand better than a fully coated bullet,just an observation.

I would assume you are not a huge fan of these methods. Personally I tumble lube with Lee liquid alox and find it works well. Always looking at different methods though.
 
Not sure what you're saying is laughable but if it's concerning the soft point comment I'd agree. Wouldn't be practical of course but an uncoated nose it would seem would logically expand better than a fully coated bullet,just an observation.

I would assume you are not a huge fan of these methods. Personally I tumble lube with Lee liquid alox and find it works well. Always looking at different methods though.

Its been my experience with cast lead bullets that unless they are almost pure lead soft, they won't expand anyway. I have a Lee single cavity mold #90491 that has a hollow point attachment on it. It is just a normal flat nose bullet otherwise. I cast some bullets out of pure Linotype and loaded them up for my converted Siamese Mauser in 45-70. They are really nice shooting bullets and can take some pretty amazing velocities without leading. I had the opportunity to try them out on frozen beef carcasses in a rancher's dead pile. At ranges of 20+ yards, they just sailed right on through into the dirt wall of the pit. Even after penetrating the hard frozen dirt/clay, they held together with little or no expansion. They were perfect for shattering boulders.

Ok. I cast some more up. Half wheel weights and half Linotype. Still to hard, no expansion at all in the frozen carcasses. The bullets would penetrate both shoulders like they were jello. Recovered bullets still showed no expansion.

Next, I tried straight wheelweights. Finally, the bullets actually expanded but still went through both shoulders. They certainly didn't show a nice classic mushroom shape, more like a bullet recovered in an animal with SP jacketed bullets at extreme ranges. A bit of petaling.

Ok, half pure lead and half wheel weights. Finally, the bullets mushroomed in frozen carcasses. I can only guess at a 7-8 BHN.

The velocities on all of these bullets was kept to 1450fps and I used Lyman Moly Lube on the bullets. Good stuff. Almost no lead fouling. Bore was easy to clean.

I have a NECO moly kote kit. Maybe I should try coating some bullets with it to see how they do.

The moly coatings I applied to jacketed bullets were a pain in the butt. The bores needed to be seasoned but they still fouled. To clean it, the moly seasoning had to be removed. That stuff is tough to get out.

Maybe the lower temps and pressures associated with cast bullets wouldn't be a problem. Anyone else tried it????

Also, has anyone used BORE COAT in cast lead barrels??? It works like a charm in barrels shooting jacketed bullets.
 
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With regards to soft points and cast bullets, it can be done but it's time consuming.

You basically use pure lead for the tip, then fill the back end of the bullet with harder stuff. Here is a video from ammo Smith.

[youtube]FrPKivrETZs&[/youtube]
 
Any update on the epoxy coating method?

I did up a small batch of Lyman 457193 last year in Harbor Freight flat black and shot them unsized out of my NEF 45-70 Handi-Rifle. I forget the exact charge, but I used a top Marlin load level with IMR4198. After my headache went away I checked out the barrel and no leading what so ever. 2 dips in Recluse 45-45-10 unsized would leave a small amount of leading with the same number of shots but slightly less velocity. My mold is a very new production Lyman and drops right at .4575 with straight clip on wheel weight alloy. I ES coated them but found it quite messy and wasteful. A lot of powder is lost as overspray. I've been toying with the notion of making my own mold for an antique pistol and if I do that it will have no lube grooves. I will powder coat it exclusively. Otherwise, I find properly sized bullets lubed with a good, appropriate for load lube much easier. Also more fun for me as I find the PC process kind of tedious. I actually like lubing and sizing boolits.
 
Here are some 45cal bullets I did up with enamel paint.

That's 3 coats and baked at 300F for 20min between coats and on the final coat. Unsized since bullets come out of the mold right around 452 and don't average more than 454 after coating. Plan to mainly use this method on bullets for my SKS' since I've had the odd hang up with cast and figure the enamel coating process will make the bullets slicker and more durable so they won't deform and catch up on the feed ramp.
 
Here are some 45cal bullets I did up with enamel paint.

That's 3 coats and baked at 300F for 20min between coats and on the final coat. Unsized since bullets come out of the mold right around 452 and don't average more than 454 after coating. Plan to mainly use this method on bullets for my SKS' since I've had the odd hang up with cast and figure the enamel coating process will make the bullets slicker and more durable so they won't deform and catch up on the feed ramp.

What kind of paint did you use? I've tried a few kinds of easier to apply than powder coat paint. VHT caliper paint, header paint, etc. No enamel type paint I have tried is anywhere close to tough enough. Epoxy (concrete floor coating) and powder coat are the only things that I've had any success with. Smash a bullet with a hammer and if the coating cracks and flakes off it won't work.
 
It's made by Colourplace and comes in an aerosol can. It was just kicking around and figured I'd try it out. Did the hammer test it's very durable and it doesn't flake at all.
 
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