Powder coating for handgun rounds - tutorial

misterzr

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I have been going through a trial and error process after doing lots of reading about powder coating lead cast bullets. I started down this road a few months back when I decided to give bullet casting a try. I saw the cost per round would drop to around .06 for 9mm which was very appealing to me. At first I tried the tumble lube method but was way too smoky for my liking, I shoot lots indoors. After looking at some options I decided to try powder coating as an option. This took a bit of trial and error to perfect but here is my story.

First you will need a few things, I will explain the usage as I go through the tutorial.

- either precasted bullets or casting equipment to make your own, this is what I do and have great success with Lyman molds but that is another story
- small bucket to use to apply powder coat, I use a Remington bucket of bullets tub but any that size will work. It is important to keep it fairly small diameter though
- wire mesh, this is to lay the bullets on to air dry prior to baking
- oven, I use a $30 Walmart toaster oven but anything capable of 425f will work
- trays for bullets to sit on in oven, I made mine out of aluminum but there are many options here, just has to be non-stick
- bullet sizing die and press, I use a Lee setup but this step is very important
- powder of course, I get mine from Powder365(cdn company) I have had the best success with high heat black flat for coat one and then a color glossy coat for 2nd
- acetone


Step one - add approx 1/2 ounce powder and 1 ounce acetone to bucket. Careful to keep this mix at 2 to 1 ratio and you don't need much. I do about 500 9mm with this amount. Add a hand full of bullets to powder mix and swirl around to mix, then add around 400_500 more. You need to start tumbling these around right away as the acetone will start to evaporate fast. Keep bullets moving till there is almost no liquid left. This is the most important step to get right and it will take some practice. Out too soon and it won't cover, leave it to long and it will start to clump up.

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Step two - once bullets are coated to your satisfaction pour out on wire mesh immediately. Make sure they are kind of spread out a bit and do this fast, remember time is ticking as the acetone evaporates. I put a fan on them at this point to speed the initial dry, bit doesn't take more than 10 minutes or so without it.

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Step three - wearing latex gloves put bullets onto trays for oven. They should be somewhat spread out and not on top of each other. I starting standing mine all on end in the beginning but it was just a waste of time as laying them down had no effect

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Step four - cook in oven, I cook at 425 for 20 minutes but you may have to adjust this depending on the oven. If you cook too long it will deform the bullet, ask me how I know that.

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Step 5 - remove bullets from oven and transfer to tray for cooling. I use a non stick cookie sheet. No picture but I am sure you get the idea

Step 6 - repeat steps 1-6 for a second coat, if bullets are slightly warm that is a good thing when you do coat 2. Too warm and the acetone evaporates way too fast.

Step 7 - after cooling overnight at the minimum, put the newly coated bullets through the sizing die. You may need a little lube depending on how oversized they are. I learned a couple lessons here. With the powdecoated cast bullets I needed to size them to .358 to work well in my Shadow and several other 9mm. My 38 revolvers get the same size and work well there as well. Too small(even 356) and the bullets have no accuracy and will tumble. Also try lighter loads than normal, I am down to 3 gn of Titegroup with the 130fn and works really well for accuracy and cycling.

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The results

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Kinda thinking about trying this with some of my boolits. Looks like an easier way of sizing and lubing.

But I don't know. Call me crazy as need be. Running paint down my barrel just doesn't sound right. Just like aluminum gaschecks don't sound all that healthy.(aluminum oxide/sandpaper)
 
Kinda thinking about trying this with some of my boolits. Looks like an easier way of sizing and lubing.

But I don't know. Call me crazy as need be. Running paint down my barrel just doesn't sound right. Just like aluminum gaschecks don't sound all that healthy.(aluminum oxide/sandpaper)

While I understand your reluctance, I would think, in my humble opinion that this extremely hardened paint would be less harmful than copper jackets. It has been proven though, that it does reduce leading... I too am still on the fence about the Al gas checks
 
Try a few, then check your barrel. Mine are clean after shooting a couple hundred rounds of the powder coat through, no leading and no residue from the PC. This is tuff stuff, the melting pot won't even melt it after baking it on a bullet, the lead melts out of the middle first.
 
Yeah like I say it doesn't sound right. But if it works that's what counts. And yes I am wanting to try some, the concept of it is pretty good. It has been tried and true for a little while now. I am not against it. Just saying it doesn't sound like a good thing. Haha
 
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Some guys are using epoxy paint. Gloss could be okay but the flating agent they use is silica based and quite abrasive. I would not want to put that down my barrel. I have done a bunch of powder coat to try when some of this white crap melts off.
 
I size first with the Lee push through sizers then dry tumble with airsoft BB's in a margarine container. I get such good coverage I have to knock the extra off! I do wait for days when the humidity is very low though.
 
I size first with the Lee push through sizers then dry tumble with airsoft BB's in a margarine container. I get such good coverage I have to knock the extra off! I do wait for days when the humidity is very low though.

Not trying to be a smart ass here but when you powder coat the bullet the diameter increases again so isn't sizing first kind of self defeating?
 
I would agree that sizing after the powder coat is critical to success, I tried sizing first and ended up after powder coating 1-2 thousands too big resulting in case bulging and jamming in the chamber. I tried a few with sizing them before and after the powder coat and that did work very nice, but I decided that sizing them twice was too much effort for little gain. If applied properly the powder coat will not come off in the push trough sizing die.
 
Couple other points to add here as well

- I looked into the airsoft BB dry tumble method, the thing I like about the way that I do it is that once the acetone has flashed off you can move the bullets around by gloved hand without disturbing the coating at all, it is stuck on like dried paint. Very easy to transfer them to the pan for baking and don't need to be stood up. I am doing mass quantities as I shoot thousands of rounds a year and needed something fast.

Next up to trial and error (this one should be challenging) Lead cast powder coated rounds in .223 for an AR rifle. I bought a very nice RCBS 55gn Round Nose .224 mold after searching high and low. I am going to attempt a variation of this method to see how it works out at faster speed. In doing some reading people are having limited success with lead cast in AR's but not seeing too much info on Powder Coated ones.
 
I too use a Lee sizer after the PC is done. I too use the dry powder and get one coat coverage, knock the tweezers against the container to get rid of the excess, no air bbs used. I stand them point up on an alu sheet which has been coated with a high temp release agent so they just fall off after cooking. Bought a toaster oven from Wally Mart for $30 with free shipping. I will do some randomly dropped on the cooking sheet so the coating will be uneven and I will test against the one cooked point up.
 
Not trying to be a smart ass here but when you powder coat the bullet the diameter increases again so isn't sizing first kind of self defeating?

Yes and no. When I sized to .357 and then add powder coat they were a bit too big and had to be sized again. I got a .356 sizing die and after powder coating they average .357-8 which functions great in my Sig 226.
 
Glad to share what I learned, just trying to repay some of the knowledge I have gained from this website.

My new Lyman 147gn IPSC special 9mm mold showed up today, gonna pour a few tomorrow and will post some pics. (Powder coated of course)
 
Here is a pic of my latest bullet, a 147 9mm Lyman IPSC mold. That is a great mold and I can't wait to shoot some of these.

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Also a test run of my AR hopeful. It is a RCBS 55g 224, without the mold even up to temp or broken in the first two came out flawless. I am holding out hope for these working.

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I have some powder coating (Pro-Tec powder paint) for lead fishing jigs in various colours.......anyone know if they would work on Boolits?
I would like to try this system on sub-sonic 6.5 "cruise missiles" .
I don't think the deer will care if they are shot with "Yellow Chartreuse" or "Blaze Orange" ........but hopefully they will be "upset"....
 
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