Yes you can.Question : if your molds are made for GC's can you still powder coat bullets with or without the GC's?
Yes you can.Question : if your molds are made for GC's can you still powder coat bullets with or without the GC's?
Yes you canQuestion : if your molds are made for GC's can you still powder coat bullets with or without the GC's?
It is Phantom Glass Black from Emerald Coatings. It's probably the thickest PC I've used. Adds at least 2 thousandths. Great for bumping up bullets on the skinny side.auggie those are mighty fine looking bullets (you 147 9mm?). Can you remind me again what black PC you are using. I think under your recommendation I ordered some but just haven’t had time this summer. Just too hot and waiting for things to cool off.
I wear nitrile gloves (not latex, they just seem to strip the powder off). I dump my shake coated bullets in a dollar store sieve, then just pick them up one at a time, roll it between my fingers to knock off any excess powder and place it on the silicon sheet on the tray. I do about 150 or so per tray. It takes me about 15 minutes to load each tray, the same amount of time to bake a load.very nice job of powder coating, what technique do you use to arrange the bullets? my apologies if you have to repeat an earlier post because I'm too lazy to go back and read the entire thread.
I wear an N95 mask while working with the powder. I knocked together a Mickey Mouse fume hood for the toaster over to vent outside while baking. There are no lead fumes to worry about, just the fumes from the heated powder. Seems to work ok.Anyone wearing respirators /masks for protection from lead fumes? If so what type?
Th PC more or less makes GC's redundant, the pc does what they do in function. i shoot GC based slugs just PC'd, pretty much just a coated boat-tail.Did up some 405gr 45-70 RCBS mold GC and some LEE 245gr plain base 38-55 .381 Are using GC's mandatory as I don't wish to size the 45-70 from .461 as Marlins have larger grooves.
Im with Yomamm, I think there is a residual of the old lube still on your slugs. try boiling twice and be careful not to pour your bullets out of the water, the skim on top you are pouring thru will re-contaminate them. Let water cool with the wax lube skim hardening, then skim that off & dump water off the slugs.still struggling here with getting a good coat of powder to stick
may have to try the wet coat for this powder I have or change it out for something else
Are some lead mixtures just not suitable?
The bullets were originally BltBarn lubed that I have cleaned a couple of ways, even tried burnishing slightly with a brass toothbrush
I only cleaned previously lubed bullets once and it was such a pain I'll never do it again. If I get lubed bullets (usually donated by someone as I only PC now) I just shoot them as is because it's not worth the effort to get the lube off. Even using lacquer thinner (which is much more efficient at stripping oils and old lube) I still had some residual lube on the bullets.Im with Yomamm, I think there is a residual of the old lube still on your slugs. try boiling twice and be careful not to pour your bullets out of the water, the skim on top you are pouring thru will re-contaminate them. Let water cool with the wax lube skim hardening, then skim that off & dump water off the slugs.
After all that I swish in a methyl hyd (common gas line anti) bath for a few seconds and then let air dry....now your ready for coating.
Sometimes PCing can be dirt simple with new clean bullets but if your starting with slugs that have wax lube on them it can be a bit onerous but the benefits of using bullets you've already purchased for cast bullet shooting is well worth the effort I've found.