John Wesley Hardin
CGN Regular
- Location
- 45.457 x - 77.239
IMR 4320 ; Extremely accurate loads in my rifle
Powder recommendations for 165 gr. 30-06 loads?
- Thread starter Potshot21
- Start date
I would agree with you on this one, all my old load manuals including a 1974 speer book all list 56 grs. as max with H414 and a 165gr. bullet. velocity is in the 2800 fps in a 22 in. barrel as well. Didn`t look it up in Ackleys old books. I prefer H4350 in my Sako, didn`t get them over the crono yet.
I've had good results with Varget and 165/168 gr bullets in 30-06.... No chrono data, but ~ .75" groups at 100 yards...
For 30-06, stick with the standard primers. If a particular cartridge / powder combination requires a magnum primer, the load data will specify it.
For 30-06, stick with the standard primers. If a particular cartridge / powder combination requires a magnum primer, the load data will specify it.
gunrunner8
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, B.C.
I have some more MAX loads for 30-06 and 165gr bullets:
Nosler fifth edition: 165gr bullet MAX loads in 24" barrel
- max 63gr of Rl 22 for 3002fps
Barnes #3: 165gr XLC BT bullets: MAX loads in 24" barrel
max-58gr of XMR4350 for 3078fps
max-62,0 gr of RL19 for 3067fps
max-58,0 gr of H380 for 3054fps
max-59,5 gr of H414 for 3093fps
max-62,0 gr of IMR4831 for 3091fps
max-59,5 gr of IMR4350 for 3064fps
max-59,0 gr of W760 for 3061fps
Some of those loads might be overly optimistic some could be down right dangerous in some rifles but were published by reputable companies with all of the high tech to their disposal so I think with careful and diligent load development of 30-06 Spr with 165gr bullets-3000fps in strong bolt actions is safely obtainable as long as the pressure is equal to the 308Win IMHO.
Nosler fifth edition: 165gr bullet MAX loads in 24" barrel
- max 63gr of Rl 22 for 3002fps
Barnes #3: 165gr XLC BT bullets: MAX loads in 24" barrel
max-58gr of XMR4350 for 3078fps
max-62,0 gr of RL19 for 3067fps
max-58,0 gr of H380 for 3054fps
max-59,5 gr of H414 for 3093fps
max-62,0 gr of IMR4831 for 3091fps
max-59,5 gr of IMR4350 for 3064fps
max-59,0 gr of W760 for 3061fps
Some of those loads might be overly optimistic some could be down right dangerous in some rifles but were published by reputable companies with all of the high tech to their disposal so I think with careful and diligent load development of 30-06 Spr with 165gr bullets-3000fps in strong bolt actions is safely obtainable as long as the pressure is equal to the 308Win IMHO.
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mcpherson284
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Potshot21, I am glad to see questions being asked. I saw that Old Ranger asked if you were loading for an Auto loader or not and I didn't see a response from you on that. Old Ranger brought up a VERY good point.
Loading for Single shot, bolt, pump, and lever guns is very different than loading for auto loaders.
KEEP IN MIND (BIG PLEASE HERE)
If this load is for a Garand, FN-49, or other suck militaary type semi-auto rifles (probably throw in sporting semis too), they are ONLY designed to handle medium burn rate powders. ONLY! To slow or to fast can cause the gun to be damaged or much worse. I have seen a Chinese M-14 that a guy ran his buddy's reloads through, and as it turned out, the reloads were in fact for a bold gun, over pressured for an M-14 and he was running a slow burn rate powder.
http://www.reloadbench.com/burn.html Here is a burn rate chart, and the military Semi(Full) autos should be kept with in #94 (IMR 3031)-#120(IMR 4064). Trying to reproduce the ball load, your best bet is to check these powders to begin with.
That said, for the time being, stick with full length re-sizing (unless someone can sit with you and show you how to neck size [single shot, bolt, pump and lever guns only, and neck sizing means that load should ONLY be used in the ONE gun you fired the brass in), use the basic loads in the manuals and once you have figured things out, had someone who is a long time re-loader or does it all the time and hasn't blow a gun up.
As for Standard vs. Magnum primers, the books normally suggest when to use Mag. Primers.
Hello Mcpherson!
I had said in my original post that I was intending these cartridges for my bolt action rifle. I figure, that since I'm new to reloading, learning the basics for a bolt gun would probably be easier and safer in the long run. I do own semi-autos and lever actions mostly, and will one day soon hopefully load for them as well, but not until I get my feet wet with the bolt gun. Just seems like a lot less moving parts to mess up if I do something wrong.
I currently only have full length dies, as I'm not quite sure what to think about neck sizing dies. Like I said, I'm new!
Also, thanks for the link, but I'm having trouble making sense of it. The difference (pros and cons) of a fast burn rate over a slow burn rate elude me. I'm assuming a fast burn rate will give a greater spike in pressure than a slow burn rate, but once again, where this would be an advantage or disadvantage, I don't know.
I would greatly value more input on this if anyone could provide!
Thanks!
Bill
I had said in my original post that I was intending these cartridges for my bolt action rifle. I figure, that since I'm new to reloading, learning the basics for a bolt gun would probably be easier and safer in the long run. I do own semi-autos and lever actions mostly, and will one day soon hopefully load for them as well, but not until I get my feet wet with the bolt gun. Just seems like a lot less moving parts to mess up if I do something wrong.
I currently only have full length dies, as I'm not quite sure what to think about neck sizing dies. Like I said, I'm new!
Also, thanks for the link, but I'm having trouble making sense of it. The difference (pros and cons) of a fast burn rate over a slow burn rate elude me. I'm assuming a fast burn rate will give a greater spike in pressure than a slow burn rate, but once again, where this would be an advantage or disadvantage, I don't know.
I would greatly value more input on this if anyone could provide!
Thanks!
Bill
mcpherson284
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Hello Mcpherson!
I had said in my original post that I was intending these cartridges for my bolt action rifle. I figure, that since I'm new to reloading, learning the basics for a bolt gun would probably be easier and safer in the long run. I do own semi-autos and lever actions mostly, and will one day soon hopefully load for them as well, but not until I get my feet wet with the bolt gun. Just seems like a lot less moving parts to mess up if I do something wrong.
I currently only have full length dies, as I'm not quite sure what to think about neck sizing dies. Like I said, I'm new!
Also, thanks for the link, but I'm having trouble making sense of it. The difference (pros and cons) of a fast burn rate over a slow burn rate elude me. I'm assuming a fast burn rate will give a greater spike in pressure than a slow burn rate, but once again, where this would be an advantage or disadvantage, I don't know.
I would greatly value more input on this if anyone could provide!
Thanks!
Bill
Hi Bill
The burn rates (1 being very fast and 173 being very slow) will depend on what is recommended for the powder to be used with. Faster powders are usually used with pistol, while slower powders are used with large bore and magnums. For the most part, don't worry about burn rates, as you only need to worry about burn rates with auto loaders.
As for your 165 Gr. question, check your reloading book first and see if what I list is inside the suggested loads.
165/168 Grain FMJ, HPBT OR Sp/SpBt
IMR 4895 - 47.0 Grains
IMR 4094 - 48.0 Grains
AA2520 - 47.5 Grains
AA2495 - 47.0 Grains
H4895 - 47.5 Grains
BLC-2 - 49.0 Grains
H335 - 47.0 Grains
RL-12 - 44.5 Grains
Once again, make sure these loads are with in the minimums and maximums listed in your book(s). That said, first, go to the local gun store and find out what powders they ALWAYS carry, write them down and go home after gocking at all the toys you want. Next sit down with you book and see what powder you can use for ALL (if not most) the rifle cartridges you own. From there, getting the most speed isn't always the best, Federal Gold medal Match lists their 168 BtHP at Muzzle velocity at about 2700 FPS if I recall correctly, while the US Military use to load their M72 Match ammo at 2640 FPS for a 173 Grain FMJ. Load for accuracy, not launching your bullet to the moon.
Justin
All the classics listed above work.
Personally, I've settled on one powder for serious hunting loads: Vihtavuori N560. Nothing gives me the combination of accuracy and velocity with 165 to 168 grain bullets in my Remington 700. The blast is mildly thermonuclear because I am personally using something like 63.5 grains of the powder, but it is so slow burning that I don't think you can get enough of it into a .30-06 case to cause a pressure problem.
It gives me 100 fps more velocity than other powders, and very consistent accuracy (approaching the best that this rifle can ever produce).
I've found Reloder 22 to be similar (and much cheaper), but it doesn't quite give me the edge of velocity and consistency that the Vihtavuori powder does, so that is what I use. Before I started using N560, I used Reloder 22, and it would still be my second choice.
For goofing around with a .30-06, I use all the classic powders, with special emphasis on Varget, H4831SC and IMR 4350.
But for serious hunting, I've settled on Vihtavouri N560. It would be superb with the 165 Accubond, and I have found it to be second to none with a 168 Barnes TripleShock.
As a bit of advice, for shooting on the range, I would use your neck-sizing dies for brass that has been previously fired in your rifle. However, for hunting loads, I'd full length size the brass (and for hunting I prefer to use brass that has only been fired once or twice before).
Neck sizing dies are fantastic, and they tend to produce more accurate ammo. However, sometimes neck sized brass is slightly harder to chamber, and you don't want to lose even a micro-second of feeding if you are facing a trophy buck or a large bear. Full length sizing is good insurance for reliable feeding in these situations.
Personally, I've settled on one powder for serious hunting loads: Vihtavuori N560. Nothing gives me the combination of accuracy and velocity with 165 to 168 grain bullets in my Remington 700. The blast is mildly thermonuclear because I am personally using something like 63.5 grains of the powder, but it is so slow burning that I don't think you can get enough of it into a .30-06 case to cause a pressure problem.
It gives me 100 fps more velocity than other powders, and very consistent accuracy (approaching the best that this rifle can ever produce).
I've found Reloder 22 to be similar (and much cheaper), but it doesn't quite give me the edge of velocity and consistency that the Vihtavuori powder does, so that is what I use. Before I started using N560, I used Reloder 22, and it would still be my second choice.
For goofing around with a .30-06, I use all the classic powders, with special emphasis on Varget, H4831SC and IMR 4350.
But for serious hunting, I've settled on Vihtavouri N560. It would be superb with the 165 Accubond, and I have found it to be second to none with a 168 Barnes TripleShock.
As a bit of advice, for shooting on the range, I would use your neck-sizing dies for brass that has been previously fired in your rifle. However, for hunting loads, I'd full length size the brass (and for hunting I prefer to use brass that has only been fired once or twice before).
Neck sizing dies are fantastic, and they tend to produce more accurate ammo. However, sometimes neck sized brass is slightly harder to chamber, and you don't want to lose even a micro-second of feeding if you are facing a trophy buck or a large bear. Full length sizing is good insurance for reliable feeding in these situations.
