Powders Question

Joel

Joel

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
GunNutz
Rating - 99.8%
453   1   0
Hi All,

I have my first flintlock coming to me, and I have a question about powders.

I bought some Triple Seven before I had read that it needs a 5 grain charge to help get it ignited, and because of that I am picking up some Pyrodex FFFG and FFG so I can shoot with better stuff.

My question is, can I mix the 777 with something else, in a larger quantity than 5 grains at a time, and just scale back the load so it will ignite more reliably and I won't have to charge with 5 grains of something else each time?

Like 30% 777, 70% Pyrodex?

Probably a very bad idea? I wouldn't ever just try it, but I wanted to hear what you gents thought.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the info, Levi!

I'll go ahead and move up to 4FG for the pan if I have to, heck I can shoot with FFG and FFFG for the main charge anyway, so I didn't buy it for nothing :) I had read in a few places that FFFG was for smaller cals than .50, but I bet it ignites better.

Well...more powder is good!
 
I think you might find that the triple 7 and the true black powder might partially separate again with jostling and vibration. I would stick with pure black powder for the flinter. You can use 3 F black for both main charge and priming.

cheers mooncoon
 
You can have a coffee break between pulling the trigger and the main charge going off if you use pyrodex in the pan. (alright maybe not but there's a huge delay.)

Use blackpowder only ya wuss. :) It takes so long to load a flinter anyway that swabing the bore hardly adds time at all.
 
Last edited:
"Use blackpowder only ya wuss. It takes so long to load a flinter anyway that swabing the bore hardly adds time at all."

LOL points well taken, guys. I'll order up a can or two of the real thing.
 
Hmm...Well I guess I just gotta order some up then!

Anyone got a favourite brand they can steer me to?
 
Don't use 4F powder for propellant. Generates higher pressure. Any black will work in the flashpan, finer powder will likely give faster ignition. I have ground up a bit of coarse powder to make priming powder. Put a bit in the bowl of a spoon, and use another spoon to break up the granules. In my trade gun 3F works fine for priming; it has a 6" lock, so it is not going to be as fast as a smaller lock anyway.
 
Thanks again!

I'll try the Goex. I plan on 4F for priming and picking up a couple cans of 3F for the main charges.

I've seen some stuff called "Elephant" but from what I have read so far on the net now, it seems like crap. I read up more after you guys told me the real deal black powder is where it's at.
 
Joel:

If I may offer my observations. The issue that most flinters have with Pyrodex (and by extension Tripple Seven) is that they require much higher ignition temperature than black powder (all other things being equal).

As your research has shown, to work around this, and still take advantage of the perceived softer fouling offered by Pyrodex, many Flinters would use a duplex charge, usually of 3f black and the main charge of RS (or ffg equivalent). This was usually done in hunting circumstances only as this is a heck of a lot of work at the range for minimal benfit.

Joel said:
I've seen some stuff called "Elephant" but from what I have read so far on the net now, it seems like crap.
Click to expand...

I would tend to disagree with the above statement.

Elephant brand powder was a powder that was made in Brazil, and as far as I know, is no longer made. This may have change. While available is was very popular with both the casual and competitive shooters south of the line due to its lower cost. Elephant started to show consistency issues due to the charcoal used, as they had, for what ever reason, switched suppliers as well as the type of wood used to make the charcoal. Its not that the powder is crap, its just that it was not consistent batch to batch. This happened with specific batches during the mid 1990s. (If interested I could dig up the batch numbers ). Later on, they resolved these issues, and made good poweder until the plant blew up some time the early 2000's.

Further, these same shooters noted that, there seemed to be a greater amount of fouling with Elephant (vs goex of the time), but a trade off most were willing to make due to the cost savings.

That being said, when a good batch was found, shooters would by huge quantities of it, and to some extent, spawned a new, but short lived industry of producing portable home magazine storage vaults.

I myself have somewhere between 5-10 lbs of the stuff left in 1 lb cans, and will be happy to share my results.

Regards and all the best

R
 
Last edited:
Richard, thanks for all the info, man. That there was way more detailed than any other post I could find on any other forum.

I'm probably going to save up and get enough Goex to make it worth the shipping or something, but in the meanwhile I might as well give Elephant a try.

Sorry it took so long to reply....Appreciate the info.
 
Is it because at events (which sounds like fun!) you are going for historical accuracy/simplicity?
 
Joel:

While I can not speak for Mr. 3beavers, the “flinters” that I know, use 3fg on trail walks simply so they need only carry one type of powder &/or horn, and still get good fast ignition.

Regards

R
 
Last edited:
Thanks again, Richard...Well, I have some Elephant ordered. I'm going to try both 4FG and 3FG in the pan and just let her pick which one she likes best.
 
Joel said:
Is it because at events (which sounds like fun!) you are going for historical accuracy/simplicity?
Click to expand...
:) Hi Joel, These reenactments require your powder to be measured and pre-rolled into paper cartridges. Max.load 125gr musket & 70gr rifle. In battle you bite the end off the paper and prime the pan, then pour the rest down the muzzle,tap the butt(stock)on your foot,point,shoot,repeat. At any other outing I really like a pan primer. You can hang this around your neck. It dispenses I think 4gr a push. I find a full pan works best for me(2 pumps). Just a friendly reminder,ALWAYS load main charge from a powder measure,NEVER a horn,flask,etc.
Jed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom