pre-World War One German Dreiling**markings pics added last post**

The german proof was between 1891 and 1939.
the left side shotgun barrel is choked with the W marking.
It looks like the rifle trigger is adjustable or even maybe a set trigger if it is moved forward?
See the little screw on the triggers?
Very nice old gun, I would love to be able to run into one like that!
Cat
 
hollowedpoint said:
Wow thanks for posting such a unique rifle!
Quite interesting and deadly calibre. I would definitely take it out hunting.
Click to expand...

You're quite welcome, and thanks to you as well!

Ahsan Ahmed said:
Thank you for taking the time to share such clear, detailed images of the firearm - made for very interesting observation.
Click to expand...

You're also very welcome. I'm glad folks have found some interest in my old gun!
 
Texgunner, if you go to the doublegunshop forums and post pics of your gun, especially all the markings of any kind on the barrels, in the "German and Austrian sporting guns" section, along with any specific questions you have, you will very likely get the most complete answers it is possible to get in this day and age. Several members there have extraordinary knowledge and ability to decipher these marking, often able to tell you who made the barrels. A big part of the problem is how, for the most part, all records were lost during the wars.

Your gun went through a German proof house for sure, most likely Suhl, sometime after 1891. That's all I can tell you.

Edit to add, just read all of Cat's post. He's right, between 1891 and 1939. The W under crown means the shotgun barrels are choked, the U under crown means the barrels have been inspected.
 
Thanks for sharing! A grand old gun for sure. I have owned three drillings, but I am down to just one now. I really like them.

One word of advice - yours is almost certainly chambered for 65mm ( 2-1/2") shells, not our modern 70mm ( 2-3/4") The winchester shells pictured in the chambers are very likely stressing the action somewhat each time you shoot. I'd suggest you find some shorter & low pressure 16 ga. shells for it, Gamebore ( Kent) of England makes good ones and so do Polywad in the USA and various Euro manufacturers like Sellier&Bellot from the Czech republic. S&B also make the correct rifle ammo for the under barrel. It is relatively inexpensive and generally available.
 
catnthehatt said:
The german proof was between 1891 and 1939.
the left side shotgun barrel is choked with the W marking.
It looks like the rifle trigger is adjustable or even maybe a set trigger if it is moved forward?
See the little screw on the triggers?
Very nice old gun, I would love to be able to run into one like that!
Cat
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info and the kind words. I need to look into that trigger, I'm glad you pointed that out! Would the left side shotgun barrel be the only one choked?

canvasback said:
Texgunner, if you go to the doublegunshop forums and post pics of your gun, especially all the markings of any kind on the barrels, in the "German and Austrian sporting guns" section, along with any specific questions you have, you will very likely get the most complete answers it is possible to get in this day and age. Several members there have extraordinary knowledge and ability to decipher these marking, often able to tell you who made the barrels. A big part of the problem is how, for the most part, all records were lost during the wars.

Your gun went through a German proof house for sure, most likely Suhl, sometime after 1891. That's all I can tell you.

Edit to add, just read all of Cat's post. He's right, between 1891 and 1939. The W under crown means the shotgun barrels are choked, the U under crown means the barrels have been inspected.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice and info too. Your suggestion will be my next "stop"! Much obliged I assure you.:d

Longwalker said:
Thanks for sharing! A grand old gun for sure. I have owned three drillings, but I am down to just one now. I really like them.

One word of advice - yours is almost certainly chambered for 65mm ( 2-1/2") shells, not our modern 70mm ( 2-3/4") The winchester shells pictured in the chambers are very likely stressing the action somewhat each time you shoot. I'd suggest you find some shorter & low pressure 16 ga. shells for it, Gamebore ( Kent) of England makes good ones and so do Polywad in the USA and various Euro manufacturers like Sellier&Bellot from the Czech republic. S&B also make the correct rifle ammo for the under barrel. It is relatively inexpensive and generally available.
Click to expand...

Thanks for mentioning that. And thanks for your kind comments too! Since posting this on several gun boards, a couple good folks have also told me that about the chambers. Shouldn't the chambers also be marked on the barrel flats or somewhere? I think I bought those Winchester 16 shells back in the early to mid 1970s. I had no idea about the short chamber then or now until having it pointed out. I now have to wonder if my Dad used the shorter shells when he hunted with it in the 1950s and '60s? There is a slight bit of play in the barrel to receiver fit when locked and I also wonder now if the 2 3/4" shells contributed to that. Thanks for the head's up on the ammunition. I will definitely look into that!
Gary
 
Cat, you're sure right about the little screw on the front trigger. It's broken, at the slot, but it will still turn. How does that operate? I have absolutely no experience with a set trigger.

Thanks, Gary
 
If the front trigger is set up like others I've had, pushing the trigger forward sets it for a light pull for the rifle barrel, or it can be used as a regular trigger without setting for either the right shotgun barrel or for the rifle. Turning the adjustment screw in would decrease sear engagement of the set mechanism and lighten the set pull weight. Out is the opposite of course. Be careful, it is easy to set them too light for safety.
 
Site sponsor Tradex has S&B 9.3x72R, 198g bullet, reloadable ammunition. Jethunter makes a cast 9.3 bullet although it is somewhat heavier.

I have, what appears to be, the same gun. Mine has a quick detach scope. It's very accurate.
The front trigger is a set trigger. As Longwalker says, pushing it forward achieves this function.
I measure the 16ga. chambers at 2.805 inches before they start sloping up to the barrels diameter. I'm not sure if this makes them suitible for 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 shot shells.
When cleaning the shotgun barrels, the left barrel muzzle is noticably tighter than the right barrel.
 
Pete04 said:
Site sponsor Tradex has S&B 9.3x72R, 198g bullet, reloadable ammunition. Jethunter makes a cast 9.3 bullet although it is somewhat heavier.

I have, what appears to be, the same gun. Mine has a quick detach scope. It's very accurate.
The front trigger is a set trigger. As Longwalker says, pushing it forward achieves this function.
I measure the 16ga. chambers at 2.805 inches before they start sloping up to the barrels diameter. I'm not sure if this makes them suitible for 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 shot shells.
When cleaning the shotgun barrels, the left barrel muzzle is noticably tighter than the right barrel.
Click to expand...
The choke stamp is onlky on the left barrel in the picture, check yours and see.
That would make the right barrel cylinder bore and the choke on the left.A 2 3/4" shell is actually 2 3/4" when it is loaded so it is longer when fired.
I would shoot 2 1/2" in there to be safe or roll crimped shell.
Cat
 
Pete04 said:
Site sponsor Tradex has S&B 9.3x72R, 198g bullet, reloadable ammunition. Jethunter makes a cast 9.3 bullet although it is somewhat heavier.

I have, what appears to be, the same gun. Mine has a quick detach scope. It's very accurate.
The front trigger is a set trigger. As Longwalker says, pushing it forward achieves this function.
I measure the 16ga. chambers at 2.805 inches before they start sloping up to the barrels diameter. I'm not sure if this makes them suitible for 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 shot shells.
When cleaning the shotgun barrels, the left barrel muzzle is noticably tighter than the right barrel.
Click to expand...

Pete, I'd love to see some pics of your drilling! Do you hunt with it?
 
catnthehatt said:
The choke stamp is onlky on the left barrel in the picture, check yours and see.
That would make the right barrel cylinder bore and the choke on the left.A 2 3/4" shell is actually 2 3/4" when it is loaded so it is longer when fired.
I would shoot 2 1/2" in there to be safe or roll crimped shell.
Cat
Click to expand...

Good info, thanks Cat!
 
Texgunner said:
Pete, I'd love to see some pics of your drilling! Do you hunt with it?
Click to expand...

I have not hunted with it yet. I just got it last month. I ordered 9.3x72R ammo from Tradex before I actually recieved the gun.
I tried the shotgun barrels by cutting the tops off factory 16ga and removing about half the pellets. I then sealed them back up with ticking and a thick paper disc. Shot fine. I'll need to get some 2 1/2" Kent 16ga shells, as suggested, for hunting.
PM me your email address and I'll send pics. I've no idea how to print them here but you can if you like.
 
Pete04 said:
I have not hunted with it yet. I just got it last month. I ordered 9.3x72R ammo from Tradex before I actually recieved the gun.
I tried the shotgun barrels by cutting the tops off factory 16ga and removing about half the pellets. I then sealed them back up with ticking and a thick paper disc. Shot fine. I'll need to get some 2 1/2" Kent 16ga shells, as suggested, for hunting.
PM me your email address and I'll send pics. I've no idea how to print them here but you can if you like.
Click to expand...
I would suggest buying a MEC MK1V JR and reloading.
You can get a 2 1/2" plate for them as well, unless you want to load by hand with brass cases- that is actually very easy!
Ellwood Epps should have the cases for you, you need 14 gauge wads to fit those cases as the 16 gauge Mag Tec cases are thinner than plastic ones.
Give me a PM if you are interested and I can send you step by step pics!:rockOn:
Cat
 
Thanks Cat. I'll be in touch.
I like the idea of hand loaded brass. I use 24ga. Mag Tech for my Sniders.
I believe shot shell brass can still be sourced from the States as well.
 
Another member, Pete04, has a very similar drilling to mine. Unlike mine, however, it does feature a maker's name. Pete has asked me to post some pics of his gun in hopes of finding out a bit more about it as well. I note that the "release" lever on Pete's drilling is a lot different; it seems to be on the left side of the receiver instead of under the trigger guard. Here are some comparison photos:

underside of Pete's shotgun barrels:



underside of mine:



Pete's:







 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom