Precautions to take using corrosive ammo?

Cyanide Ride

Cyanide Ride

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I searched "corrosive" in many combo's but couldn't find anything that could help. Sorry if this have been covered before, but I have been unable to find info on this.

When shooting 7.62x39 corrosive Czech ammo, what precautions are needed?.

I was informed that spraying the gun down with some sort of window cleaner (ammonia) would mostly nullify the corrosive powders until you can get home to perform a proper cleaning.

Are there any other steps needed or is this enough?.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
1) Boil a kettle full of water ($12.99 at Walmart if you don't own one)
2) Pour down bore and into gas block.
3) Clean as you normally would.
4) Listen to everyone ##### about not being able to find non-corrosive ammo because they're too lazy to clean their rifles.
 
the ammonia does'nt really make any difference. Water will do the same thing and wash away most of the salts in the barrel, until you get it home. Try not to leave it overnight without cleaning.
A buddy of mine is so paranoid about corrosive ammo, that he strips the rifle and soaks the whole thing in warm soapy water overnight, totally immersed. He knows it's over kill but it gives him more time until he can do the job properly. His rifles look like new, with over 3000 rounds each through them.

Follow Stevo's instructions and you won't have any problems. Just remember to re lube as required.
 
if you are in a dry locale cleaning imediatly is not nessesary. i have left my 858 uncleaned after shooting it for up to a couple weeks with no ill effects. if i were living somewhere with high humidity, i would do it as soon as i got home
 
Cyanide Ride said:
Thanks for all the responses.

Sounds like everyone is on the same page in regards to this. :)
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I just cleaned my 858 after yesterday's range trip. 10 minutes from plugging the kettle in til putting it back in the safe.

I usually clean it every second or third range trip. I spray WD-40 down the bore and into the gas block when I get home and put it away. Then just pull a bore snake thru when I hit the range next.
 
"...everyone is on the same page..." You'd be amazed at the arguments about it on U.S. forums. Plain hot tap water will do, but boiling water will dry faster. As daft as that sounds.
 
boiling water then normal cleaning or Windex with ammonia then normal cleaning! both methods seem to work to get the corrosive salts cleaned out. I have used both methods but prefer the windex method as I can carry a small spray bottle with me and spray the gun down right after shooting.
 
In all honesty I have left my CZ for 2 weeks after shooting as I went to the nange just prior to final exams and could not be bothered to clean it after, and I have never seen any rust. The bore is still at mirror finish as well.

Usually it gets cleaned within 2 days of a range trip.
 
Corrosive primed ammo is SCARY Stevo...Anybody that has it should sell it for $0.02 a round...Giving it away for free is the best thing! Think of the children...
 
The only thing ammonia does for you is that it will help in removing carbon fouling compared to pure water. Any other water-based degreaser, such as Simple Green, trisodium phosphate, or even soapy water will also do the same thing. It's the water that dissolves the corrosive salts.
 
pie1 said:
In all honesty I have left my CZ for 2 weeks after shooting as I went to the nange just prior to final exams and could not be bothered to clean it after, and I have never seen any rust. The bore is still at mirror finish as well.

Usually it gets cleaned within 2 days of a range trip.
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Till I went shooting while raining! Day after there was a little rust. But windex/hoppes fixed that up.
First time I have ever seen corrosive live up to its name in 3 years of owning a CZ
 
If your barrel is chromed, wouldn't it be alright? The SKS for example, is a military rifle and I couldn't see it getting the hot water treatment in the field. I wondered about this but have never asked.
 
Not all SKS rifles have the chrome, and semi autos have many more nooks and crannies for powder residue to get into. Remember, the rifles we're talking about start at around 30 yrs old and run to almost a hundred for some of the Mosins... Is the rifle going to lock up solid 20 minutes after firing surpus ammo? No it won't. Will a thorough cleaning and application of TLC improve it's chances of being around for another half century or longer? Yes it will. Take care of your investment. That rifle cost real money. Most of us don't have access to depot level maintenance. A hundred bucks for a well used SKS or a few grand for a Springfield sniper - WHEN THESE ARE GONE THERE WILL BE NO MORE.
 
Although most Russian SKSs have chromed bores, the chamber is not chromed on them, nor is the gas cylinder or piston. Clean it as soon as you can after shooting it.

Yugoslavian SKSs do not have a chrome plated bore.

Whatever cleaning solvent the Russians used was likely water soluble in order to both dissolve corrosive salts and remove carbon fouling. Some armies did in fact use hot water for bore cleaning when possible. Special funnels were made to pour water down the bore of the Lee Enfield, for example.
 
i prefer Birchwood Caseys No.77... works like a hot damn on black powder salts and says rite on the bottle it works for corrosive ammo too... in the field i just run a patch with some 10w30 on it and wipe down the gas piston with the same patch.... never had rust yet.
 
In one of the other posts on the matter, someone posted the russian instructions for the SKS. It called for daily cleaning during wars, active battles, and training. So, yes, they did take the time to clean their rifles. The longest the manual said you could ever not clean it was either a week or a month, and that was if you hadn't used it at all.
 
There is no doubt about the necessity of field stripping and cleaning, I just thought a good clp would have been enough. But, like I said , I don't know much about corrosive ammo.
 
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