Precision reloading....with a Progressive press?

NavyShooter

NavyShooter

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
100   0   0
Location
XMU Local .303
Goodday gents....


Well, I've been comissioned to try an experiment. To see how well my Dillon 550B progressive press is able to produce match-grade ammunition.

Has anyone else ever tried doing this with their progressive press before?

Plan of action is as follows:

1. Purchase the .30 shell-plate
2. Use existing Redding precision dies and 550B toolhead, plus powder die and measure from 550B system.
3. Load up a couple of hundred rounds to balistically match the comparison round (Norma Diamond Line 168's)
4. Test-fire and compare results under identical conditions, with identical rifle to see how the ammo from the 550 compares against factory Diamond Line ammo.

Comments? Suggestions?

NavyShooter
 
Been done on a huge scale in the US. Many varminters and service rifle shooters load up tons of 223 on their Dhillons. The article might still be on the Dhillon site about a junior shooting team and their Camp Perry Quest.

They went through thousands of rds per month in practise. All loaded on progressives.

Test was done a few decades back comparing the then new progressives and single stage in varminting rifles. No significant difference.

Big problem is in the sizing and lubing. If this step creates runout, you will produce poor ammo. If the lube is excessive or is not removed, it can cause some real issues during firing.

Keep an eye on the powder charges and weigh the first 20 to 40. You need to keep the variance within the needs of that barrel. Some are very picky (+/- a tenth or two max), some can be 1/2gr out and still shoot well. The type of powder chosen and how much powder you will drop can affect your results.

Small grain or ball powders are the best. If loading 308, you may find Benchmark meters better then H4895 and possibly Varget.

If loading for a bolt rifle, I would look at the lee collet die. Solves your lubing problem and the sized ammo is dead straight. When the cases grow too much, just do the shoulder bumping in a single stage and back into the progressive.

Check the finished rds for runout. They should be no worse then in a single stage press. If they are and you can't stop it by fiddling with the seating die, consider a Redding match die or Forster BR die. The sliding sleeve helps to hold the case and bullet in alignment to reduce seating runout.

Good luck with your experiment. With the average chamber, you will see little to no difference on target at moderate ranges loading on a progressive.

If you keep an eye on the stages, there should be no problem making ammo capable of shooting 1/4MOA, maybe even better.

Jerry
 
I've been doing it on a Hornady LNL AP, with results that are surprising.

OAL, runout and velocity SD are the same or better than on a Redding ultramag with RCBS throw (trickled charges have slightly better SD on both the LNL and ultramag). Both done with the same set of Redding S-dies setup for an AR (with match barrel etc).

I haven't found a quiet (low-wind) day for back-to-back testing yet, but the measured numbers suggest that it will be just as good.
 
We just need to remember that the only thing a press does is provide the mechanical advantage we need to work the brass and hold the die(s) in place.

There are no shortage of BR type presses and all sorts of tweaks that some do to make a press work better. Sorry, but alot of this just isn't worth it.

The key to any press success is actually in the amount of slop or wiggle in the shell holder. Because there is slop and lots of it, the case can align itself in the die. It is the die that determines your success.

So, if your ammo is developing runout after any stage, check with how that die is set up.

Jerry
 
So,

Basically, after a bit of reading up (still looking for my copy of Black Magic for followup) but basically, here's my plan based on what I've read so far:

1. Polish brass (tumbler)
2. Lube brass and run through press using de-capping and re-sizing die only.
3. Re-polish brass to remove sizing lube
4. Check length/trim/chamfer as required
5. Run through press to prime, powder, and seat bullets, no crimping die to be used.

Testfire against factory match ammo.

That's my plan at this point....comments?

NS
 
Do a batch single-stage as well, so you can compare to that.

Before you fire them, do OAL and runout checks on each of the three (single, progressive, factory).

When you testfire, use a chrony and figure out the sd for velocity for each batch.

The purpose of the measurements is to provide objective feedback. When you're shooting, if you know which bach is which, there is an unconcious feedback that will mess with the results.

So - take a buddy, have him hand you the ammo and record what he's handing you, then measure the targets before you know which target is which. Match the measurements to the records (eg., target one from string 1, string 1 from batch 2) to see which batch did what.
 
NavyShooter said:
So,

Basically, after a bit of reading up (still looking for my copy of Black Magic for followup) but basically, here's my plan based on what I've read so far:

1. Polish brass (tumbler)
2. Lube brass and run through press using de-capping and re-sizing die only.
3. Re-polish brass to remove sizing lube
4. Check length/trim/chamfer as required
5. Run through press to prime, powder, and seat bullets, no crimping die to be used.

Testfire against factory match ammo.

That's my plan at this point....comments?

NS
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I do for my service match ammo. (.223)
For 2. -I use my Rockchucker
For 4. -I run all the brass into my newly acquired Giraud trimmer
For 5. -I use my 550b. and I add an ever-so-slight crip with a lee factory crimp die. (I find it doesn't hurt the accuracy, and gives me peace of mind cycling in the AR)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom