Precision/tactical action and barrel. Rem 700

TheinfamousJake

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I am trying to put the puzzel pieces together to build a precision/tactical rem 700 style rifle in .308. The two parts I'm struggling with to find are the barrel and action. I have a slight budget..

The action:
-Preferred to have a fluted bolt
-Picatinny/weaver scope mount
-the bolt can be black or grey, if not, whatever is the best.
-under $750
The barrel
-Heavy
-black or desert tan
-muzzle break (the most tacti-cool one that still funtions great)
-Under $500

If it sounds like I don't know anything, its cause I don't. Correct me so I can learn! (this would be my first build)
 
So are you looking to do a build where a smith puts your items together or just get a rig that you can shoot? To get close if you go the "build" route with $750 you would need to find a rem 700 action and have a smith flute it or get a ptg bolt....will be close, and when you start doing all that, you might as well save the extra 250 for a custom action. A barrel will cost you $350-$450 bucks just for the blank and then you have to pay a gunsmith to cahmber it to your action, about another $250. Colors are generally extra (cerakoting, durakoting).

The real question is, what are you shooting right now? if nothing, and you are on a budget and wanting to get into it, I would suggest looking at a Rem 5R, or Rem AAC SPS (upgrade stock) and shoot. Then when you start to get the feel, start handloading if you are not already and then you can use the action to get a custom barrel screwed on or sell it and go full custom. A savage will work to (for the savage guys).

Full custom is just that, custom. and Custom can cost. There are "cheaper" ways to do it, but just trying to get a little more info on what your looking for. What range do you want to shoot or have access to? Do you ahve a bunch of factory rifles or just starting all together. Once we know that we can try and help direct you more.
 
You will soon learn that "tacticool" in the precision world doesn't mean and matter much...

When your super tacticool rifle will have a hard time to go under a MOA you will start to have regrets. Not saying that you can't have both worlds. But everything has a price.

;)

As mentioned above. Buy a rifle ( 700 R5 ) is a good suggestion and shoot. Forget about the look. As they say. The bullet is always right.
 
Well, have you seen the Remington 700 AAC-SD? 20" heavy barrel, 1:10 twist, threaded with thread protector cap, everything black. Comes in a Hogue overmolded stock, mine's the ghille/foliage green.

That gets you partway there, if you really want I imagine you could get a picatinny rail on top of the action, and find someone to flute your bolt for a few bucks. That's probably not as erotic as it sounds.

I feel I should mention the new MDT Light Sniper System (LSS) chassis that will be shipping in August. In their thread here they said it should fit the heavy barrel 700 no problem.

So, somewhere around $700 for the AAC-SD
About $420 for the MDT LSS
Plus the cost of a butt for the LSS
Plus whatever it would cost to get a rail mounted atop the action.
Plus whatever it takes to convince some guy to flute your bolt.
Plus the cost of optics. I threw a Leupold Mark AR Mod 1 3-9x40 on there because I like the way it looks and it was more or less the first scope with adjustable turrets that I saw on the shelf.
Plus the cost of a brake
Plus the cost of a new trigger if such is desired, and since you want a "precision" build I'd say you're probably going to do that. Though the stock trigger feels fine on mine.

Add that all up, and then compare it to a custom build that wil probably put you back $3000 for the rifle plus whatever amount for the optics.

You can possibly recoup some of the cost by selling the stock and trigger that comes with it, if you do replace them.


The AAC-SD will get you fairly close to your end goal, and if you shop around you might be able to get the rifle plus a decent scope for under a grand. Then you can upgrade as needed.
 
With some bedding and minor upgrades (Timney trigger, 1piece scope base and a scope), my AAC-SD is shooting sub MOA. If you go the AAC-SD route, if you pick it up from SFRC, it comes with a muzzle break. Later on, just upgrade the stock.
 
I am trying to put the puzzel pieces together to build a precision/tactical rem 700 style rifle in .308. The two parts I'm struggling with to find are the barrel and action. I have a slight budget..

The action:
-Preferred to have a fluted bolt
-Picatinny/weaver scope mount
-the bolt can be black or grey, if not, whatever is the best.
-under $750
The barrel
-Heavy
-black or desert tan
-muzzle break (the most tacti-cool one that still funtions great)
-Under $500

If it sounds like I don't know anything, its cause I don't. Correct me so I can learn! (this would be my first build)

I am wondering why the need for a fluted bolt? It serves no purpose. Maybe it looks cool, but looks do not make an accurate rifle.
There are guys out there that will flute a factory bolt for you but make sure you SEE their insurance policy, specifically the part about liability. Most "gunsmiths" run naked in that dept due to the extremely high cost
The factory bolts were never engineered to have material removed from them. Many will say that the bolt body is just to allow the bolt to move within the action, BUT 700 bolts are a number of parts that are assembled and fluting them DOES compromise their integrity. Just as installing Sako style extractors does. This is another bad idea that is commonly done.
That being said catastrophic failure is not an everyday occurrence BUT (imagine Dirty Harry voice here) Do ya feel lucky? Do an internet search of catastrophic failures of rifles and the resulting injuries, THEN decide.
The flutes also tend to collect debris and then relocates it right into you trigger group.
 
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