pressure signs on steel cases

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arachn'auquébec

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Hi!

I considered reloading 7.62x54 to get cheap hunting ammo for my mosin nagant. After a bit of research on the subject and the reloading of this cartrige, I found out that it would actually be cheaper to just replace the bullets on my surplus CZ ammo. So I pulled the 148 grain bullets on 10 cartriges, keeping the military powder, and replaced them with 150 grain .311 SP from speer. I will try these cartriges next week end at the range. So far everything should be good with this.

The thing is I would also like to load some 180 grains, and then I will have to remove the powder and work up my own load, so I would like to know if the pressure signs on a military surplus steel case will be the same as those on brass cases. Ex: will berdan primers flatten or crater?

Thank you!
 
That is usually called "Mexican Match" and has been done for years. You might want to simply replace the powder as well, that way you can use existing reloading data to make your loads. Also, it is not the existing powder that is corrossive it is the primer and you can't replace that, so, try to ensure that you don't have corossive primers!!

Scott
 
Nice to know it's been done before, so that it should be safe. However, I haven't found a lot of litterature on the subject on the internet. If I am to build up my own loads with heavier bullets than those that came with the ammo, I will of course change the powder, since I am not really comfortable playing with a powder I don't know(except for bullet swap of the same weight and diameter, wich is all I did up to this day). This is why I ask what should I expect from steel cases if I reach dangerous pressure levels, since I assume most published loads are for brass.

Of course, since this ammo is berdan primed, it is corrosive, but I don't really mind. As a millitary, I am used to clean my C7 everyday, so cleaning a simple bolt action after every firing session isn't that much of a pain...
 
DON'T FORGET that just because the powder used was suitable for 148grs bullets does NOT mean you can safely work up a load for 180grs bullets....

M39A2 is quite right, replace the powder with a known type, powder is cheap, body parts are expensive and seldom work like the original equipment....
John
 
johnone said:
DON'T FORGET that just because the powder used was suitable for 148grs bullets does NOT mean you can safely work up a load for 180grs bullets....

M39A2 is quite right, replace the powder with a known type, powder is cheap, body parts are expensive and seldom work like the original equipment....
John
Click to expand...

You are right, thanks for the advice. Am I correct that it's safe for 150 gr. SP though?

As for 180 gr bullets, as stated before, I won't use the same powder, but I still have some doubts about if I will be able to read pressure signs on steel cases while working up my load. What should I look for?
 
I use a 0-1" micrometer to measure the web on some factory ammo that I fired,and then measure the same area on your reload's.
Measure just above the rim where the case will expand the most.
 
Measure the case from 3 different angle's,write down all the number's and then figure out your average.
Use that as a baseline.
As you build up your load measure each case and again figure out your average expansion.
When you get to the factory fired/baseline number's be careful, you'll be around your max.
Keep an eye on your primer protrusion also, it's another indicator as is muzzle blast and the ease of opening the bolt.
I would fire some steel then some brass for future reference.

I would use the original powder, just remove 7 grain's and go up from there.
Make's great plant food!
 
With steel cases?

I know I sound a little paranoid with this whole steel case idea, but I suspect they are more unpredictable than brass since steel is less ductile than brass. Are berdan primers brass? I noticed while scraching the kind of lacquer that covers the primer that the metal looks golden...would make sense if it was brass, and then they would flatten and/or crater in a situation of overpressure? or does the berdan primer structure never flattens and the cartrige will blow in my face before I notice anything on primers?
 
That's why I got into measuring them. More accurate and safe.
And remember steel is stronger then brass, once you find a load you can use it ONLY IN STEEL CASING'S!
 
Your 150 load is fine.

If you just need a good hunting load with a 180 gr bullet, you would be safe to just re-use the military powder, dropping the powder charge by 3 grains.

I have purchased and used thousands of Russian steel cases. I bought them from Russia, by the drum. Primed, of course. madeto my dimension specs (+5 thou headspace). As I type this, I just realized that this would be pefect brass for my M14.

I used them to make very, very good target ammo form my own use. The way I handled load development was to use a known good powder (such as 4895 or RL15) and load til I got the velocity I wanted, that I knew was safe with other brass.

I never found a reliable way to read the cases. Steel is very elastic.

If you bought a box of commercial ammo with 180 gr bullets, then you could make 180 mexican match, using enough powder to get a similar velocity. Do not try to get a higher velocity. The factory may have used the very best apropriate powder, whereas you are using a compromise powder.

You need a Chrony to do this. Or just load 3 grains less powder.

There will be those here who will object to this advice. I have 40+ years of experimental experience playing with guns and ammo, including access to pressure barrels.
 
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