Pretty disappointed with Talleys on my Anschutz.

Twan said:
Why not just get an MOA inclined base/rail for your Anschutz? The crew over @ Nordic Marksman (who are unbelievably excellent to deal with) list a few different picatinny rails for Anschutz rifles, in different inclinations.
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Well I just got back to the range. I wanted to try something before purchasing a MOA mount. A person made the suguestion it might be barrel droop, so with it shooting near center and low again, its plausible that its might be. That gun has no support on the barrel once it leaves the action.

Talley one will be the same as my ultralight rings, minimal contact. MDT I'm waiting to hear back that the 1416 base fits my 64 silhouette. Not sure if the 1761 Area 419 base fits my 64.
 
OkayShooter said:
Well I just got back to the range. I wanted to try something before purchasing a MOA mount. A person made the suguestion it might be barrel droop, so with it shooting near center and low again, its plausible that its might be. That gun has no support on the barrel once it leaves the action.

Talley one will be the same as my ultralight rings, minimal contact. MDT I'm waiting to hear back that the 1416 base fits my 64 silhouette. Not sure if the 1761 Area 419 base fits my 64.
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I'd give Brad @ Nordic a call. Being he's the Anschutz distributor and warranty centre for Canada, he'll be able to run through everything with you, including which bases etc. would fit your rifle.
 
Grantmac said:
Burris Signature rimfire rings, or Zee rings on adapters.
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That is what I ended up doing. well instead of adapters, I used weaver #16 bases, since they were easier to get than the #91. They fitted the curve on the receiver perfect. I have enough clearance to do 30MOA if need be. I was little wery using modern bases, as I was told that the newer 64s are little wider than my 30-year-old one.

I didn't expect to have this much headache mounting a scope.
 
A couple of us on the other forum had talley rings on centerfires and they were badly misaligned.
Both of us ran out of windage, changed rings and things were good.

Another pair of talleys on my xbolt which work great.

They need better quality control, lemons are a real possibility.
 
lone-wolf said:
A couple of us on the other forum had talley rings on centerfires and they were badly misaligned.
Both of us ran out of windage, changed rings and things were good.

Another pair of talleys on my xbolt which work great.

They need better quality control, lemons are a real possibility.
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I got ultralights on my Savage and they fit perfect. Not sure why the Anschutz ones are notched out in the center. Seeing the quality of the burris, I think I'm gonna stick using them. As they're not that $$$.
 
I have talleys on my weatherby Anschutz 22. it's odd that when I was testing various ammo at 50 yards doing 5 shot groups x5 . I would get one nice tight group then the other 4 groups were a scatter .im wondering if its those talleys on there, any ideas?
 
rar said:
I have talleys on my weatherby Anschutz 22. it's odd that when I was testing various ammo at 50 yards doing 5 shot groups x5 . I would get one nice tight group then the other 4 groups were a scatter .im wondering if its those talleys on there, any ideas?
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Certainly , they can be all over the place.
 
SomebodyTookMyName said:
I've never understood the obsession with Talley rings- some folks seem enamoured with em, but I really don't care for them.

I've worked in gun shops for many years, and mounted many many hundreds of scopes, and for the price, Talley rings are honestly some of the worst I've seen...

I've seen incorrect-length screws and stripped screw heads out of the box, but what concerns me most is that they're almost always out of alignment by a pretty large margin. I've seen them scrape finish off of scope tubes, even bend tubes without any excessive torque on the screws. They're about the worst name-brand rings around in my opinion, maybe with the exception of the old Weaver 2-screw steel tops ("dammit, the crosshair was level, now it's not") and factory Ruger dovetail rings.
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I've had the complete opposite experience, absolutely love Talley Rings and wouldn't put anything else on my hunting rifles.

I too worked many years in a large retail gun shop, over the years I installed every make and model of bases and ring combo and realized very early on they should all be lapped before putting a high end scope in and tightening.
I've seen it happen with every brand and some were definitely worse than others but none of them were always perfectly square when you put the 2 pieces together.

JJ
 
Well with the Weaver #16 bases and Burris signature 20 MOA inserts. I have now plenty of adjustment. I could have gone up with 25 MOA, but I still have half my dial worth of adjustment left at 100. Requiring only 44 clicks from 50y zero to 100.

I only needed 1.5" of adjustment to the right than when the scope was used with the BKL dovetail rights. So that tells me that the Talleys were off alot.

Oh and the weaver screws were perfect length and required no trimming.
 
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It's also possible that your scope is bent. I made a mistake buying a Japanese-made Tasco 6-18 from a seller on the EE a couple of years ago. It turned out to be bent, and he "forgot" to mention that the grease in the detents had hardened up to the point that there were no perceptible clicks over much of the elevation range.

I couldn't get to 100 yds with it mounted on a 1407 Match 54 without shimming the rear ring saddle.
They're good quality scopes, good enough to be worth fixing.

I shipped it to Trace Scope Repair in Alberta last winter. Phil checked it out, straightened the bent tube, cleaned and re-lubed the adjusters and shipped it back to me for a very reasonable price considering the amount of work involved.

I now have crisp click adjustments.
I haven't mounted it on a rifle yet to see what straightening it did for the usable adjustment range, but I suspect it'll be an improvement.

As for needing a 10 or 20 moa rail to get to 100 yds with a 22, that's not been my experience either.

Think about it. You need 7 to 8 minutes of adjustment to go from 50 yds to 100 yds. If you can't get that out of any quality scope sold today or even 30 years ago, there's another problem. Probably the rings, rail, mounts, whatever you have holding it on. Or, it's bent..

One of the criteria I use when shopping for a scope is how much adjustment it has.

A friend recently bought a Vector Optics scope that supposedly has 40 minutes of elevation from top to bottom. Turns out it has 31 minutes. Even that works out to 100 yds.

I've never been a fan of Talley rings. I've had good luck with Warne, Weaver, etc. I've heard good things about BKL but I've never used them.

Beware the Chinese knock off Warnes being sold on Amazon. I got some in a package deal and ended up using paint stripper to get the cruddy black paint off, then blued them. They're still not great but they work.

Bass Pro sells (or at least used to sell) the original Warne rimfire rings for about $40.
 
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Chilly807 said:
It's also possible that your scope is bent. I made a mistake buying a Japanese-made Tasco 6-18 from a seller on the EE a couple of years ago. It turned out to be bent, and he "forgot" to mention that the grease in the detents had hardened up to the point that there were no perceptible clicks over much of the elevation range.

I couldn't get to 100 yds with it mounted on a 1407 Match 54 without shimming the rear ring saddle.
They're good quality scopes, good enough to be worth fixing.

I shipped it to Trace Scope Repair in Alberta last winter. Phil checked it out, straightened the bent tube, cleaned and re-lubed the adjusters and shipped it back to me for a very reasonable price considering the amount of work involved.

I now have crisp click adjustments.
I haven't mounted it on a rifle yet to see what straightening it did for the usable adjustment range, but I suspect it'll be an improvement.

As for needing a 10 or 20 moa rail to get to 100 yds with a 22, that's not been my experience either.

Think about it. You need 7 to 8 minutes of adjustment to go from 50 yds to 100 yds. If you can't get that out of any quality scope sold today or even 30 years ago, there's another problem. Probably the rings, rail, mounts, whatever you have holding it on. Or, it's bent..

One of the criteria I use when shopping for a scope is how much adjustment it has.

A friend recently bought a Vector Optics scope that supposedly has 40 minutes of elevation from top to bottom. Turns out it has 31 minutes. Even that works out to 100 yds.

I've never been a fan of Talley rings. I've had good luck with Warne, Weaver, etc. I've heard good things about BKL but I've never used them.

Beware the Chinese knock off Warnes being sold on Amazon. I got some in a package deal and ended up using paint stripper to get the cruddy black paint off, then blued them. They're still not great but they work.

Bass Pro sells (or at least used to sell) the original Warne rimfire rings for about $40.
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Could be, but the scope seems to track fine. When I finally was able to get it zeroed at 50. I shot at 100. I measured it was 6" low, so I put 48 clicks (1/8" adjustment) and it was right where I wanted it.

When I moved from Talleys to the BKL dovetail rings I centered the windage, and was within a inch of the center line still low, but pretty much centered. So I went from maxed out and still 4" left, to pretty much center. Tells me the talleys were way off. When I switched to weaver and burris setup, I was still centered.

I think it was barrel droop. This stock is heavily modded. It's basically cut off at the end of the action. So there is no support for the barrel.
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same here.. have talleys on my cz452 after trying 2 other brands of rings.. the talleys are great
…for me, its millet rings that blow chunks .. real garbage.

jimmyjazz said:
I've had the complete opposite experience, absolutely love Talley Rings and wouldn't put anything else on my hunting rifles.

I too worked many years in a large retail gun shop, over the years I installed every make and model of bases and ring combo and realized very early on they should all be lapped before putting a high end scope in and tightening.
I've seen it happen with every brand and some were definitely worse than others but none of them were always perfectly square when you put the 2 pieces together.

JJ
Click to expand...
 
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