Price check - 71/84 Mauser

TheCoachZed

TheCoachZed

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Southern NB, aka "Canada's Bible Belt"
It's a Danzig armory model, made in 1887. Numbers match, but it's obviously been sporterized. Magazine cut-off is welded to single shot to maintain "antique" status, but could probably be converted back if you wanted to register it.

I want to sell it but I don't know how much to ask. I'm no expert, but I think the rifling is strong, but the bore is pitted. I know that Trade Ex sells rolling blocks in this shape, and I do know that one of these sold on here recently for $200, but it was gone pretty quick so I'm guessing it was a deal.

Everything except the magazine (disabled) works fine.

How much should I ask?


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50 bucks tops. can't relaly tell but is the extractor missing? bore pitted, stock cracked, welded .................... (something off about the bolt too maybe?)

The weld that you speak of who did it what does it look like? I would'nt pull the trigger on a gun that had a big gob of home welder weld under the reciever ring LOL.

There are regularily mint bore 71/84s on here in much better shape and they NEVER sell quick.

There was recently a 71 carbine listed a 350 in Very good condition and it did not sell for a while and maybe still has'nt.

put 50 bucks on it and maybe someone will buy it to reline. If someone offers 30 take it.

P.S if any wants to pay more then 50 for a gun like that PM me and I'll find one for ya!
 
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I had one in much better shape than that one listed on here for $200 but nobody bought it:( I ended up getting $250 locally but I had to through in a full box of 11mm dominion ammo(worth more than the gun in my opinion)

X2 on the parts gun
 
The bolt and washer that act as a bolt stop are worth something.

The ejector and extractor are worth something as well.

I think your extractor is missing though? Very hard to find a replacement.

I don't mean to dis your gun, I love the old mausers. As a possession it has great value as a saleable commodity it aint worth the effort to sell it.
 
Hey, no problem. I thought they didn't have an extractor, that you had to flip them over like a rolling block to drop the shell or something. Maybe I was confused with the ejector. Guess I was wrong, or maybe that was only the model 1871. There is a little tab that comes out from the bolt face that looks like it might hook onto a cartridge rim, but I have no cartridges to find out.

Anyways, I've had offers of $150 for the bolt (from a guy in the states) but he never raised the money. Guess I should get back in touch with him, as it doesn't appear to be worth it to sell here in Canada.
 
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The other option is to lap the heck out of the bore until it is safe to shoot and use it. They are great rifles and having it around in shooting condition for the next 50 years might be worth more then you'll get for it now.

Brass is expensive but will last forever. I reload mine by hand with just a rod to remove the primer and seat the fresh one. You can have a lot of fun DIRT cheap with 6 pieces of brass, and a jug of powder.
 
TheCoachZed said:
Hey, no problem. I thought they didn't have an extractor, that you had to flip them over like a rolling block to drop the shell or something. Maybe I was confused with the ejector..
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The model 71/84 has both an extractor mounted on the bolt, which hooks the shell out of the chamber and a ejector which sticks out of the bolt when the bolt is all the way back and which flicks the shell sideways from the receiver. If you shorten the ejector a small amount, you can use 45-70 shells bulged out instead of the much more expensive mauser shells. They are about .1" short and as long as you stick with low pressure loads, appear to be safe in my guns. The model 71 does not have a ejector but only an extractor.
In terms of price, something is worth what someone else will pay for it. I have owned 2 model 71/84s and 2 model 71s, all in better condition than the one pictured, all with shortened stocks and I think I paid from $100 - $150 apiece for them each from a different seller. I think the one in the photo would not exceed $100 but that is just my best guess.
cheers mooncoon
 
And how would one go about lapping the heck out of the bore?.....and wouldn't reloading the shells by hand be a good way to loose your fingers if something went wrong? (I'm a total reloading ignoramus. I understand on a basic level how it works but have never seen a press outside of a catalogue).

Mooncoon, the 45-70 information is interesting, but wouldn't you still need the dies and all that?

Tell me more, guys!

Oh yeah, talked to a gunsmith today, and he said a repeater converted to single shot is still required to be registered. That's not the way I understood the rules, but if that's the case, I would like to know.
 
david doyle said:
P.S if any wants to pay more then 50 for a gun like that PM me and I'll find one for ya!
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Sign me up!

The bolt is worth at least $100 in the US - a bunch of m71/84's appeared on the market 2-3 years ago missing bolts. I know a guy who makes repro extractors (and ejectors, and elevator levers), so that's not a big issue.
 
TheCoachZed said:
And how would one go about lapping the heck out of the bore?.....and wouldn't reloading the shells by hand be a good way to loose your fingers if something went wrong? (I'm a total reloading ignoramus. I understand on a basic level how it works but have never seen a press outside of a catalogue).

Mooncoon, the 45-70 information is interesting, but wouldn't you still need the dies and all that?

Tell me more, guys!

Oh yeah, talked to a gunsmith today, and he said a repeater converted to single shot is still required to be registered. That's not the way I understood the rules, but if that's the case, I would like to know.
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No its Called Handloading for a reason. you use your Hands and some tools to of course.
I dont think David ment he Crimps the cases with his teeth or anything like that :D
Lee sells a very Inexpensive kit called a Handloader its very small and you use a rubber mallet to Reload with it.
I doubt they have 43 Mauser ones tho but reloading can be done safe with very minimum tools.

If its a Single shot now its a perscribed Antique.


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If the bore is pitted, about all you can accomplish by lapping is to smooth the roughness out. I suspect the amount removed would be in the order of 1/2 of a thousandth of an inch of metal.
The problem of not neck sizing shells for original guns, particularly military guns, is that the chambers are often very much oversize and the slug is very loose in the cartrige. That is not a concern about safety when you are on the target range --- you just keep the shell and the gun angled up. It is a concern however for accuracy because the slug is not particularly centered in the bore nor completely aligned with the bore.
I am sure that you can buy loading dies for a fair bit of change but being frugal (some mistake this for cheap) I made my own dies.
For those who have not reloaded black powder before, I would suggest using a very soft bullet lube such as 50/50 animal fat/bees wax. Would also suggest reading the Paper Jacket by Paul Mathews

cheers mooncoon
 
reloading can be done safe with very minimum tools.
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LOL What I do is fire the rifle till I am out of loaded rounds then I bang out the old primers (with a rod) and put new ones in sans tool.

Then I use a scoop to add the powder and then seat the bullets by hand. no sizing or dies.

I then load and fire.

3 pieces of brass, 100 primers, 100 bullets and bit of powder and this rifle could feed a man for 50 years!

HAve'nt gotten too serious about it yet but no matter what I do it is minute of moose at 100 yds.


Glad you made your sale sounds like it was fair all around

I use teflon wrapped bullets. I am wearing good glasses and using dominion brass.
 
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