Primary Arms 1-6x24 scope - FFP or SFP?

Jeffhere

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Hey folks,

I'm looking into getting a PA 1-6x24 Scope (either Aurora or Raptor reticle).

The real question though is FFP worth spending an extra $100 at this magnification level? Or should I just get the cheaper SFP?

This will be mounted to an X95.

Thanks
 
I bought a Athlon scope after speaking with Jerry at Mystic Precision with FFP, and will never go back to a SFP, but then again it is a 24 power scope for bolt action. At 500 yards the reticle and scope clarity was so nice.
https://wolverinesupplies.com/shop/optics/scopes/athlon-argos-btr-g2-6-24x50-30mm-ffp-apmr-ir-mil

SFP seems to be the most common for lower powered scopes, I just run a Bushnell AR scope on my semi.
https://www.bushnell.com/riflescope...-6x24-illuminated-riflescope/BU-AR71624I.html

http://mysticprecision.com/

https://wolverinesupplies.com/shop/...os-btr-1-4-5x24-30mm-sfp-atsr3-ir-moa-reticle

https://wolverinesupplies.com/shop/...midas-btr-g2-1-6x24-30mm-atsr4-sfp-ir-reticle
 
I started with SFP LPVOs and moved to FFP LPVOs and FFP is superior for me.

With LPVO type scopes you wont be dialling (I dont anyways, maybe others do?) so find a zero that works for you and leave it there, beyond that you need to figure out your holds are (so a reticle that works for you is important).

I primarily use these for competition and to engage at distance I find that I am somewhere in the middle of the magnification range (3-4X). At this level i find I have sufficient magnification & field of view (being on 8X makes finding the targets tricky) and my holds are still perfect. While this may still be possible with a SFP scope it would be trickier.

For holds I find something like Strelok works great, plug in your numbers (velocity / height over bore / zero distance etc etc) and it will literally show you where to hold on your reticle (which I have found to be very accurate).
 
For target shooting FFP, for hunting SFP.

Really? My experience has been the opposite.

For hunting (specifically if not dialling) is where a FFP would take the guesswork out of holding (the holds will work at any magnification level so if you are somewhere in the middle to get a bigger FOV they are still good).

For target shooting (at known distances) then the SFP scope would have the edge as the reticle will be finer (doesn't grow with magnification / easier to be more precise) and you would more than likely be dialling. Even if you are not dialling the holds will be accurate at full magnification (the only time they are on a SFP scope). F Class is dominated by SFP scopes.
 
Really? My experience has been the opposite.

For hunting (specifically if not dialling) is where a FFP would take the guesswork out of holding (the holds will work at any magnification level so if you are somewhere in the middle to get a bigger FOV they are still good).

For target shooting (at known distances) then the SFP scope would have the edge as the reticle will be finer (doesn't grow with magnification / easier to be more precise) and you would more than likely be dialling. Even if you are not dialling the holds will be accurate at full magnification (the only time they are on a SFP scope). F Class is dominated by SFP scopes.

It depends a lot on the reticle too, so the answer is not ultimate. There are a lot more reticles available today in sub $500 scopes which were previously reserved for high end scopes.
 
Really? My experience has been the opposite.

For hunting (specifically if not dialling) is where a FFP would take the guesswork out of holding (the holds will work at any magnification level so if you are somewhere in the middle to get a bigger FOV they are still good).

For target shooting (at known distances) then the SFP scope would have the edge as the reticle will be finer (doesn't grow with magnification / easier to be more precise) and you would more than likely be dialling. Even if you are not dialling the holds will be accurate at full magnification (the only time they are on a SFP scope). F Class is dominated by SFP scopes.

At sufficiently short distances you're firing to your zero and it doesn't matter which kind of scope, but firing to a holdover on an SFP scope that isn't at the appropriate zoom (generally max) throws an error into that. So long as you always zoom to max (or to a known zoom you plan to use at that range) for distant targets before holding over you should be good, but FFP takes away the opportunity to make an error there. And the more things you can figure out beforehand and the less you have to think about at the firing line the better.
 
At sufficiently short distances you're firing to your zero and it doesn't matter which kind of scope, but firing to a holdover on an SFP scope that isn't at the appropriate zoom (generally max) throws an error into that. So long as you always zoom to max (or to a known zoom you plan to use at that range) for distant targets before holding over you should be good, but FFP takes away the opportunity to make an error there. And the more things you can figure out beforehand and the less you have to think about at the firing line the better.

Agreed.

I use a 1-8x for run & gun type competition and even at distance I rarely go above 3-4X as it shrinks the FOV and makes it slower to pick up targets. Getting a hit on a piece of steel doesn't require the same level of accuracy as shooting groups.

For this FFP works better for me, like you said, it's one less thing to think about. Once I know my holds they are the same immaterial of zoom level.
 
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