Primed x54r steel cases

Butcherbill

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I’m going to pull apart some Norc copper washed 7.62x54r and use the powder and bullets in some once fired S&B brass I have, mainly to have some cheap non corrosive plinking ammo. Is there any use for the surplus steel cases, possibly for cast loads? I don’t mind shooting corrosive primers in a 91/30 but I’m getting lazier about cleaning a semi auto lol.

Is anyone reloading unfired steel cases, possibly only have to crimp depending on tension after pulling them down. Worth keeping or just toss them? I’m not one to toss something I can reuse but if it’s not worth the hassle, have a bag of .311 Cam-pros I could use or save them for some cast bullets once the weather warms up for a casting session.
 
I have pulled bullets and saved the powder from surplus steel 54R. I have loaded a light load of 700X or Unique under a cast bullet into those cases and used them for plinking. I've done the same with steel x39, using the bullet and powder in a Lee Enfield. I also loaded a light load of flake powder in those cases. I fired some of them out of my Baikal single shot and some out of a Chinese SKS that we plugged the gas hole and made it into a straight pull.
 
I've reloaded steel cases for 7.62x54R, 8x57, and 7.62x39, without any issues. All of it went into bolt actions of course.

I have a stash of Berdan primers that fit some of the very odd cartridge types I sometimes load for, such as the 8mm Kropatschek.

I've found that steel cases if they aren't loaded to extreme pressures, just issue specs, can be reloaded several times.

After pulling the bullets, I neck size the steel cases, without touching the shoulder. Steel cases are definitely a bit different to load but the steel is very mild and tolerant.

You should be careful with the powder out of the Chinese surplus, it has a burn rate very close to that of 4895 and the charge weight will be over maximum for your Lee Enfield, if that's what you're using them in.

Should be fine to just switch over for use in your semi auto, which I'm assuming is an SVT 38 or 40?
 
I've reloaded steel cases for 7.62x54R, 8x57, and 7.62x39, without any issues. All of it went into bolt actions of course.

I have a stash of Berdan primers that fit some of the very odd cartridge types I sometimes load for, such as the 8mm Kropatschek.

I've found that steel cases if they aren't loaded to extreme pressures, just issue specs, can be reloaded several times.

After pulling the bullets, I neck size the steel cases, without touching the shoulder. Steel cases are definitely a bit different to load but the steel is very mild and tolerant.

You should be careful with the powder out of the Chinese surplus, it has a burn rate very close to that of 4895 and the charge weight will be over maximum for your Lee Enfield, if that's what you're using them in.

Should be fine to just switch over for use in your semi auto, which I'm assuming is an SVT 38 or 40?

I’m just loading the powder and bullets into brass x54r cases with non corrosive primers for plinking with an svt40, not making 303 ammo. I’m going to weight powder charges and use the average across the board, don’t feel like dealing with corrosive ammo and cleaning at the moment.

I figured I should be able to use the unfired steel cases for something in a 91/30 down the road, simple and quick to clean after a trip to the range with a bolt action and corrosive primers.
 
I have done it. The lead bullets are a bit fat, so neck tension is not an issue. Flare the case mouth a bit. A steel case can be hard on a bullet.

I used to use steel berdan 308 cases for target shooting. he Berdan primers tend to give lower ES and SD.
 
I've reloaded steel cases for 7.62x54R, 8x57, and 7.62x39, without any issues. All of it went into bolt actions of course.

I have a stash of Berdan primers that fit some of the very odd cartridge types I sometimes load for, such as the 8mm Kropatschek.

I've found that steel cases if they aren't loaded to extreme pressures, just issue specs, can be reloaded several times.

After pulling the bullets, I neck size the steel cases, without touching the shoulder. Steel cases are definitely a bit different to load but the steel is very mild and tolerant.

You should be careful with the powder out of the Chinese surplus, it has a burn rate very close to that of 4895 and the charge weight will be over maximum for your Lee Enfield, if that's what you're using them in.

Should be fine to just switch over for use in your semi auto, which I'm assuming is an SVT 38 or 40?

No, I don't use a full charge from a 54R in a .303. I weigh the powder charges that come out of the 54R so I know the approx. burning rate and mark it on the container I keep the powder in.
 
No, I don't use a full charge from a 54R in a .303. I weigh the powder charges that come out of the 54R so I know the approx. burning rate and mark it on the container I keep the powder in.

I knew that from previous posts.

My comment was aimed at Butcher Bill, who is quite astute with hand loading as well.
 
I’m going to pull apart some Norc copper washed 7.62x54r and use the powder and bullets in some once fired S&B brass I have, mainly to have some cheap non corrosive plinking ammo. Is there any use for the surplus steel cases, possibly for cast loads? I don’t mind shooting corrosive primers in a 91/30 but I’m getting lazier about cleaning a semi auto lol.

Is anyone reloading unfired steel cases, possibly only have to crimp depending on tension after pulling them down. Worth keeping or just toss them? I’m not one to toss something I can reuse but if it’s not worth the hassle, have a bag of .311 Cam-pros I could use or save them for some cast bullets once the weather warms up for a casting session.

Lots of good advice above.
I will add that living in a damp climate, I have had a problem with Chinese surplus brass, that the exposed priming composition over time, will absorb the moisture from the air.
After having the brass for about six years in my heated shop, I was approaching a 50% failure rate.
My latest cases that I loaded, I heated to about 200 Fahrenheit for 20 minutes. I have not been to the range since, but I am hoping that the treatment worked.
 
Thanks for all the feedback on this, will definitely put this to the test this season.


I have done it. The lead bullets are a bit fat, so neck tension is not an issue. Flare the case mouth a bit. A steel case can be hard on a bullet.

I used to use steel berdan 308 cases for target shooting. he Berdan primers tend to give lower ES and SD.

Thanks Ganderite, I knew I’d seen someone mention it before. I’ll cast something up once the weather is nicer, or try a few of the Campro .311 bullets I have. I believe they are jacketed and not plated like their pistol bullets.

I knew that from previous posts.

My comment was aimed at Butcher Bill, who is quite astute with hand loading as well.

Cheers, I’m relatively new to hand loading but I love everything about it so far. Wish I had started doing it years ago, lots to learn but that’s what’s fun about it.

Lots of good advice above.
I will add that living in a damp climate, I have had a problem with Chinese surplus brass, that the exposed priming composition over time, will absorb the moisture from the air.
After having the brass for about six years in my heated shop, I was approaching a 50% failure rate.
My latest cases that I loaded, I heated to about 200 Fahrenheit for 20 minutes. I have not been to the range since, but I am hoping that the treatment worked.

Thanks for that, good to know it can happen. I don’t plan on storing them too long, once the were into spring/summer weather I’ll do something with them.
 
In case anyone is curious about some numbers on the Norc x54 components. .310 dia steel core 150gr bullet, the base has an exposed steel core. This was the Norc x54r Canam was selling awhile back, originally as non corrosive but there was mixed results from people’s nail test’s. Seeing as I have 80 unfired steel cases I might as well take a few and do a new nail test, I don’t remember what my results were back when I bought this ammo.

I pulled 80 in total and weighed individual powder as well as total for the batch of 20. For the most part charges we’re close, I divided total batch weight’s by 20 and my final charge will be 43.7gr

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Thanks for all the feedback on this, will definitely put this to the test this season.




Thanks Ganderite, I knew I’d seen someone mention it before. I’ll cast something up once the weather is nicer, or try a few of the Campro .311 bullets I have. I believe they are jacketed and not plated like their pistol bullets.



Cheers, I’m relatively new to hand loading but I love everything about it so far. Wish I had started doing it years ago, lots to learn but that’s what’s fun about it.



Thanks for that, good to know it can happen. I don’t plan on storing them too long, once the were into spring/summer weather I’ll do something with them.

Keep them in sealed plastic bags or some other sealed containers.

I don't know why "some" primers will go bad when they're exposed to air over a long time but it can and does happen with all manufacturers, whether Berdan or Boxer type, surplus or commercial.

Most have a coating that stands up quite well to exposure, even after being underwater for a week.

Last spring my neighbor had a flooded basement and he was tossing a thousand pack of CCI magnum small rifle primers. I wanted to experiment with them, to see how much they had deteriorated after being submerged for over a week, after being dried in the oven at 125F and set out on an open tray in the sunlight for a few days.

They worked just fine. I didn't notice any difference between them and another lot of the same type of primers.

That being said, I had some CCI LRPs that were on the shelf, in an open tray for close to a year, and one in five would hangfire or fail.

Those exposed lead-base bullets are becoming a thing of the past. There was a time when manufacturers depended on those exposed bases to allow the lead to be pushed into the jacket with expanding gas pressure during firing to force the bullet to obturate into the grooves.

With today's better manufacturing tech, bore diameters from one firearm to another are much more consistent and obturation can be controlled with diameter, rather than forced.
 
Butcherbill: Thanks for posting your experience in pulling those bullets. I didn't weigh my powder, but did check the charge with a LEE dipper. Next time!
 
Those exposed lead-base bullets are becoming a thing of the past. There was a time when manufacturers depended on those exposed bases to allow the lead to be pushed into the jacket with expanding gas pressure during firing to force the bullet to obturate into the grooves.

These are all exposed steel core, I thought they might be lead but I tried scraping them with a knife tip once they were done tumbling to remove the tar like neck sealant. I’m going to weigh bullet for curiosity sake and see how close they are to each other, iirc this was all machine gun ammo.

Butcherbill: Thanks for posting your experience in pulling those bullets. I didn't weigh my powder, but did check the charge with a LEE dipper. Next time!

Cheers, that’s my plan as well. Closest Lee dipper to my intended charge and trickle up, I’ll have to post some targets once I hit the range.

Was surprised at how hard they were to pull, even in a collet puller. I seated the bullets a bit deeper to break the sealant and it still required some force on the ram for the majority of them.


Question for you and Bearhunter, I have a bag of .311 180gr Campro bullets I’d like to try as well. How much of a drop in powder should I start at for the heavier bullet, 1-2 grains?

Bearhunter compared burn rates of the surplus powder to 4895, my Lyman has 42.5-47.5 for a 150gr bullet. For 4895 they and a 180gr sp they list 41.0-45.5 for comparison sake.
 
I haven't done it in a while but I pulled down a bunch of x54r for loading in my 303 nearly a decade ago when 303 bullets were impossible to find. I actually have a bag full of those cases too, I don't have a x54r rifle and haven't decided what to do with them...

My results were very similar to yours, about 44gr of powder, .310-.3105 bullet diameter. I was using a Lee Classic Loader with a dipper, it was throwing about 38gr of powder IIRC.
 
I haven't done it in a while but I pulled down a bunch of x54r for loading in my 303 nearly a decade ago when 303 bullets were impossible to find. I actually have a bag full of those cases too, I don't have a x54r rifle and haven't decided what to do with them...

My results were very similar to yours, about 44gr of powder, .310-.3105 bullet diameter. I was using a Lee Classic Loader with a dipper, it was throwing about 38gr of powder IIRC.

I seem to have managed to find a fair amount of .311-.312 bullets before fauxvid shortages hit, have some Hornady, Sierra and Campro to play with and I’ll be trying these x54r as well as casting for it. Nice to have options as I like shooting the LE’s.
 
I seem to have managed to find a fair amount of .311-.312 bullets before fauxvid shortages hit, have some Hornady, Sierra and Campro to play with and I’ll be trying these x54r as well as casting for it. Nice to have options as I like shooting the LE’s.

No I'm talking before that, like 2014ish shortages. Back when a lot of stores were limiting 22lr purchases to 2 boxes per customer. A sporter Enfield was the only centerfire rifle I had at the time (other than an SKS) so I am not sure what other calibers were like, but finding 311-312 bullets was near impossible for me in those days.
 
Exposed steel cores will work almost as well as lead when pressure is exerted on the base and forces the core ahead. It doesn't take much.

I have some steel core bullets, which I bought in bulk that are .310 diameter and they shoot well from bores .308-.313.
 
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