first of all don't #### around with range brass--buy a thousand once-fired commercial brass (without crimped primers) and have at it. you have to manually deprime the military crimped brass and then swage the primer pocket before you go at the bulk loading--it only has to be done once but with the easy availablility of non-crimped brass it is a bother to deal with it.
Primer not seating fully and primers not entering casing
- Thread starter johhny12gauge
- Start date
I bought the gear to try and save money (not shoot more, i shoot enough). If i bought brass too than that would make reloading money wise not worth it. I have access to range brass from IPSC and PPC so i'd like to be able to use it. I have time to learn but i'd rather save than spend when it comes to reloading. If I got the 600 would that make military 9mm fine to use? what is the order I should follow?
Thanks
Thanks
Yes, the Dillon Super Swage 600 will take the crimps out. But they are expensive, and you have indicated budget issues.
Here is everything you need to know about primer crimps:
https://squibloads.wordpress.com/reloading/get-the-crimp-out/
There are less expensive ways to remove crimps than a Dillon. The cheapest way is to discard cases that are crimped.
If you do use crimped brass, the sequence is two-pass:
Pass one: size / deprime
Then (off press) decrimp primer pocket
Pass two: prime / powder / seat bullet / crimp bullet (seat / crimp can be done at one station, it's up to you and your press)
I read the article, can I use the Dillon 600 on all brass, regardless of it being crimped? Of the 50 rounds that didn't turn out, only a few are crimped so I'm still thinking there might be another issue. I can afford the press, i'd just rather not have to buy brass at $50/1000 for 9mm, over a year for me that's $500 more.
you'll change your tune when that brass has a HEAD SEPARATION b/c you have no idea how many times it's been fired- not so much with pistol brass as rifle, but it CAN happen- then you need a whole lot of new stuff for your gun- i've had it happen on a 308 m14 and a 45 acp
as far as removing the crimp goes, lots of us still use the lee ( it's like 20 vs whatever dillon charges) or a chamfer tool and it becomes a non-issue- however , there becomes another issue when using range brass- that brass that has been fired from an open bolt pistol or smg
i've got a uzi, and i've picked up brass from a stirling back in the day and you can't reload either one safely as the brass is too thin after it's been fired- you could actually see the "magnum ring " formed around the base from the open bolt
The vast majority of brass I have is not mil spec, It is all fired from pistol. I am very new to reloading but have the time to learn. I have no problem buying the 600 and just going about the steps outlined a few posts back. I am just trying to learn here and if I can save a few bucks on buying brass all the better.
Out of 54 rounds, 4 turned out and the rest either the primer did not seat at all or was a high seat. I checked the brass and it couldn't have been that it was all NT, mil spec etc, I doubt of 54 random pieces of brass 50 were crimped. I might be wrong here which is why I'm looking for help.
Thanks
Out of 54 rounds, 4 turned out and the rest either the primer did not seat at all or was a high seat. I checked the brass and it couldn't have been that it was all NT, mil spec etc, I doubt of 54 random pieces of brass 50 were crimped. I might be wrong here which is why I'm looking for help.
Thanks
had you researched the topic a little more, you would have seen that certain BRANDS of brass have KNOWN primer pocket issues. THE S&B, for instance has smaller flash holes and a primer crimp; the ivi, winchester nt, and federal are all crimped in primers- moreoever, when you go to chamber this range brass, you will find that some will, some won't- UNLESS you use the lee factory crimp die- this is due to the difference in chambers between manufacturers; but back to the primer thing- i just run all of mine through the LYMAN primer pocket cleaner ( it's a hand tool) whether they need it or not as part of my case prep- lee presses do funny things when they run into a primer crimp , and i'd rather NOT deal with that- and are you sure you used the EXACT same pressure to seat EACH AND EVERY primer- your "symtoms" sound to me more like INCONSISTANT PRESSURE more than anything else- or there's media or crap in the primer pockets- either way, get out your bullet puller( either type- i like the hammer) and do it again- and don't believe the crap about unseating live primers, PRESSED out, they won't go off-
i also use a LEE hand primer tool, not the one on the press
i also use a LEE hand primer tool, not the one on the press
Okay thanks, I believe my pressure was constant but the issue is most likely the primer pockets. I'll get the Dillon and use it on all my brass. I really just thought you had to tumble and throw the brass in the progressive and your set. 9mm seems to be that extra bit complicated. I only plan to reload 9mm so at least one day i'll have a better understanding of it.
Yes.
Good, crisp pictures would help. The high seated one and the non-seated ones. A crimp should be evident if you can take a decent picture.
I wouldn't rush out and buy a 600 until you were sure crimp was the problem - show us some pics. Even if "crimp" is the diagnosis, try a handful by de-crimping with a chamfer tool - which you either already have or need, and is cheap - before determining that decrimping is the solution to your issues.
If it is the solution, you can think about how, long-term, to de-crimp. If it isn't, then you have eliminated one potential source and can focus on the others. Basic problem solving technique.
Both. But especially the rounds in which the primers were improperly seated.
I guess a single stage would have told him it was military? I think you had it right when you stated it might be a simple problem. The press speaking to him, that's a whole other conversation.
I've told you in another thread that this day in age I believe a lot of people learn on a progressive. With proper mentoring and caution someone can be taught correctly. I really don't see why you insist on people buying multiple presses while maturing as a reloader.
