Primer pocket swager or reamer? Which do you use?

Armored Metal

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I just read in another tread (didn't want to hijack it) about someone's insatisfaction with the RCBS swaging tool. I use the RCBS tool and I just had to redo a whole batch of .223's because I was having a hard time seating the primers in. Is this common? Is the RCBS swaging tool a bad option?

I'm sure that the Dillon super swage is the way to go but I don't reload enough .223's to justify buying it at the moment. Any of you guys out there using primer pocket reamers? What are the pros and cons of swaging vs reaming?

Thanks guys!
 
I tried reaming using the lyman pocket reamer, though had no success removing the crimp with it. Caved and bought the Dillon first chance I got. The way I look at it, with reaming, you are actually removing material from the brass vs the swager where you are just reforming it. It sucked to spend the money, as I only had 1000 brass to do, but at least I have it now in case I need it later.
I am certain that's what happens with most people - they do a big batch and then it sits on the shelf for years untouched.
I have read a lot of posts about people who liked the RCBS tool, may not be as fast as the dillon but I can't see why it wouldn't work just as well if adjusted properly. Does the RCBS have any adjustment to it?
Edit: We as a community should have one to pass around when someone needs it.
 
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Last year I did a batch of crimped 303 brass by hand with a reamer. It worked fairly well but is less then a precise affair. Most worked out and had the crimp removed but many needed to be re reamed after trying unsuccessfully to prime the brass.

The plus of the above method is every reloader has a reamer so if you are willing to spend the time removing the crimp by hand you can do it without purchasing any extra tools.

The negative is it takes awhile to do it by hand and you often have to redo the reaming once you try to reprime.

I think im going to purchase an RCBS primer pocket swager for the next round of prepping military brass. The price is cheap for the kit and the time savings makes it worth it for me.
 
I use the RCBS for both small and large primer pockets and it works fine, it does require a fair amount of force to work properly though; I use it because I found one cheap. It produces a roundover of the primer pocket instead of the straight bevel edge of a chamfer tool. Can't comment comment the Dillon but as many comment here they are good.
 
I use the RCBS as I don't shoot a 223 and I have done a few hundred 308/7.62 on it. As noted one must set it up correctly and use sufficient force. It works flawlessly when this is done, I have never had to redo a brass when done in the RCBS die.
 
I use a Dillon.
Never had luck with the RCBS.
I have also removed many crimps with a chamfering tool chucked up in a small lathe.
 
I use a CH4D unit for swaging. It's a single stage press tool.... Standard for thread so it's universal. Costs about the same as a set if dies, $45 iirc.

I also use a case prep centre with the primer pocket uniformer attachment afterwards.

I tried the Dillon unit, and while it's a nice piece of kit, it has to be set-up just a skootch different for each brand if brass, and I didn't want to sort 8000 pieces of mixed 223 that had mil-crimps..... Now if all my brass was the same make model and lot.....

I have found that all the types of swagers I have tried benifited from having the pockets uniformed after, made seating primers much easier!

I've done the "drill bit" method..... Brass was pretty much garbage after 1 or 2 firings.... I don't recommend it....
 
I just read in another tread (didn't want to hijack it) about someone's insatisfaction with the RCBS swaging tool. I use the RCBS tool and I just had to redo a whole batch of .223's because I was having a hard time seating the primers in. Is this common? Is the RCBS swaging tool a bad option?

I'm sure that the Dillon super swage is the way to go but I don't reload enough .223's to justify buying it at the moment. Any of you guys out there using primer pocket reamers? What are the pros and cons of swaging vs reaming?

Thanks guys!

To answer your question you can go cheap and not have the Dillon unit, "BUT" if you have a lot of cases to do by hand you are going to have some very sore fingers. The problem is you have to hold the case to remove the crimp by hand and after doing three five gallon buckets of .223/5.56 brass my fingers and hands were very sore.

Below is just one five gallon bucket of .223/5.56 brass and I will "NEVER" do that many by hand again no matter how much the Dillion unit costs.

halfdone_zps8557fc4b.jpg


Below is what I used to remove the primer crimps, I would use the VLD tool to remove approximately 50% of the crimp and finish with the RCBS crimp remover made for their case prep station. The bottom front reamer was just used as a GO NO-GO gauge to see if enough of the crimp had been removed.

reamertips001_zps433f8557.jpg


Below is a closeup of the RCBS crimp remover, please notice the reamer is tapered and never touches the primer pocket walls. Meaning it can't damage or make the inside diameter larger and only removes the crimp. The reamer is also beveled at the top and slightly rounds the mouth of the primer pocket just like standard non-crimped ammunition.

reamertips002_zps4ce4694b.jpg


Below the RCBS reamer makes the primer pockets look like the factory "rolled" pocket.

primerpockettypes_zps54d6c63f.jpg


Now heads up, the Dillon unit displaces brass and does not remove brass so you end up with tighter primer pockets overall. It is fully adjustable and you do not have to hold each individual cartridge case and apply pressure with the reamer.

Bottom line, if you have a lot of cases to do and use a hand reamer your fingers will be so sore you will not be able to pick your own nose and your reloading experience will be totally buggered up. :bangHead:

On the other hand the Dillon unit works slicker than snot on a door knob.

The choice is yours, if you have the money then buy the Dillon unit and don't look back...................and looking at the buckets below makes my hand and fingers think of pain and worn out automotive gloves.

bucketsofbrass_zps6927af18.jpg
 
To answer your question you can go cheap and not have the Dillon unit, "BUT" if you have a lot of cases to do by hand you are going to have some very sore fingers. The problem is you have to hold the case to remove the crimp by hand and after doing three five gallon buckets of .223/5.56 brass my fingers and hands were very sore.

Below is just one five gallon bucket of .223/5.56 brass and I will "NEVER" do that many by hand again no matter how much the Dillion unit costs.

halfdone_zps8557fc4b.jpg


Below is what I used to remove the primer crimps, I would use the VLD tool to remove approximately 50% of the crimp and finish with the RCBS crimp remover made for their case prep station. The bottom front reamer was just used as a GO NO-GO gauge to see if enough of the crimp had been removed.

reamertips001_zps433f8557.jpg


Below is a closeup of the RCBS crimp remover, please notice the reamer is tapered and never touches the primer pocket walls. Meaning it can't damage or make the inside diameter larger and only removes the crimp. The reamer is also beveled at the top and slightly rounds the mouth of the primer pocket just like standard non-crimped ammunition.

reamertips002_zps4ce4694b.jpg


Below the RCBS reamer makes the primer pockets look like the factory "rolled" pocket.

primerpockettypes_zps54d6c63f.jpg


Now heads up, the Dillon unit displaces brass and does not remove brass so you end up with tighter primer pockets overall. It is fully adjustable and you do not have to hold each individual cartridge case and apply pressure with the reamer.

Bottom line, if you have a lot of cases to do and use a hand reamer your fingers will be so sore you will not be able to pick your own nose and your reloading experience will be totally buggered up. :bangHead:

On the other hand the Dillon unit works slicker than snot on a door knob.

The choice is yours, if you have the money then buy the Dillon unit and don't look back...................and looking at the buckets below makes my hand and fingers think of pain and worn out automotive gloves.

bucketsofbrass_zps6927af18.jpg

Thank you for your very informative post. Your input is always appreciated.
 
I'm still reaming by hand but I will not uniform by hand and I do them in smaller batches. I use Lyman tools for both but I removed the uniformer toolhead from the handle and chucked it up in a drill. I like the reamer because it will open an undersize primer pocket. I get a few that won't take a primer with all the crimp removed and some that are just too tight. The reamer gets them consistent but leaves things plenty tight. Once reamed, the uniformer fits in the pocket and cuts them all to spec for very consistent priming. Its slow going but it works well and only needs to be done once. Now if I had buckets of brass to process... I'd take the interwebz word for it and buy a Dillon.
 
I use the built in swager on the 1050.

Besides the consistent operation, it helps find those maddening "ringers" where the primers tube section adheres to the pocket and only the top of the primer and the anvil is punched out. (Most common it seems on nickel plated brass.)
 
When I began making Mexican match from surplus .30/06, I thought swageing would be the quickest method of dealing with the crimp. It was quick, however I wasn't all that happy with the uniformity of the job it made, and the primer pocket uniformer doesn't change that as it's index is for depth only. But I struggled along until I discovered a cutter made by LE Wilson, the same guys who make the chamfering-deburring tool that comers with many reloading kits, regardless of color. I have one for both large (.210") and small (.175") primer pockets, and since using them, I've found that my pocket to pocket uniformity has improved

 
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