Princess Auto - 9 pc Roll Pin Punch Set - $5.99 (until Jul 27th)

Over_Kill

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Just wanted to give my fellow tinkerers a heads-up. Princess Auto has a 9 piece Roll Pin Punch Set, their own "Power Fist") brand on sale now for $5.99 until July 27th 2014.

I live near Hamilton, and picked up 5 sets (I have friends who like to work on their own guns too) at the Princess Auto on Barton St.

SKU : 8478760

Linky:

htt p://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Punches-And-Chisels/9-pc-Roll-Pin-Punch-Set/8478760.p

OverKill
 

Ayup. But when you need to reach in to the box to find a tool to butcher to make a tool that works, it hurts a lot less than grinding/bending/mutilating/welding yer $15 Snap-On stuff!

In my experience, there have been no makers that have built a durable small pin or roll pin punch, so buy several, use them until you cannot, then make them into other useful tools.

Holding the shank of a bent off, or otherwise broken pin punch, in a drill motor, and grinding the tip to a very much shorter punch to use as a starter punch (short section = stiffer and less prone to fold when you tap it with the hammer), or converting it to a center or prick punch for marking out work, are two really easy uses for a broken punch.

Using the same drill to turn the punch while you grind the tip back to being flat is another good method of getting more life out of them.

Cheers
Trev
 
Junk.. I bent pretty much every little punch they got and I had them for awhile. I have better luck buying cheap precision screwdrivers and cutting off the screwdriver tip.
 
Wouldn't you want brass punches?

Princess auto is good for some stuff But I wouldn't want to use them on a stainless gun, or on drift pins, tapered pins or the likes.

Brownells sells good punch sets.

Make sure you dress the ends and I wouldn't pound on them with to much force cause to can mushrooms pins in there holes, then your ####ed.
 
I'm the OP. Yeah, these Roll Pin Punches aren't the best quality. And I do already have a set from Brownells. But at $5.99, they're good enough for a spare set. I bought 2 for myself, 1 for my range bag and one for a spare (my Brownells set stays on my gun bench).

As for brass punches, I have a couple of sets of them too, but they're regular punches, not ROLL PIN punches.'

I think one of the posters above is confused about what a ROLL PIN punch is. It's not flat on the end like the regular punch, it has a "nipple" (for lack of a better term) on the end that seats in the hollow point of the roll pin which helps the punch not slip off and damage the surrounding material (your gun frame/receiver).

Here's a good vid from Brownells explaining it:

htt ps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4_k8OvjwAY

If you're doing a lot of work with roll pins, I suggest a set of Roll Pin Starter punches as well. I bought a set of them from Brownells too.

OverKill
 
Yea I was confused about them, thanks for explaining, I never have had a set of roll pin punches just always used regular punches on any equipment I happen to be on.
 
A young fellow came over with his set of PA punches to show off yesterday. In many cases, where the pins are loose, such as on 22rf rifles or shotguns those punches will work well. They are soft enough that they wont bugger up the heads of the pins. They are definitely stronger than brass punches of equal diameter.

Punches are a very misunderstood tool. Most people just think they have to be hard and tough. NOT SO.

Punches, like screwdrivers have to suit the job. Even a lot of tradesmen don't use them properly or use the proper type or size of punch for the job. I don't know how many jobs I've been on where I've had to repair the damage done by some ham fisted fool that used a punch that was way to small for the job and galled or peened the edges or bores of the holes for the pins to fit into. Then, pound the pin back in and roll over the edges of the pins as well because the damage to the holes bound the pin or the end of the pin was bloomed and bound because it was oversized. What should have been a simple job, taking mere minutes suddenly becomes a job that takes hours because the damage has to be repaired.

Like most here, I'm sure you've seen the same thing on firearms internals.

For a tradesman, one set of punches isn't enough. If you want to do each job properly, without damaging what you're working on, you will need hard, stiff high carbon steel punches, brass punches, plastic drifts and punches as well as different length punches of all needed diameters.

The use of wrong punches has caused a lot of unsightly damage and extra expense for a lot of people.

Those cheap punches at Princess Auto are fine for what they are made to do. So are their brass and high carbon steel punches.

Sometimes it is necessary to make up punches to do a job. Good quality allen wrenches make very good punches and come in all of the convenient sizes for most jobs, especially those required for light gunsmithing. I like to use copper or brass rod to make up the head of the punch. Copper and brass heads are easily drilled to accept the hex shaped shafts and retain them well when pressed in. The heads of the copper or brass punches won't cause the hammer to rebound.

Lots of good uses for such punches but it is pretty hard to beat a proper factory made punch that has been made for a specific job.

If you're bending your punches, you are using the wrong type of punch for the job or something is to tight or damaged.
 
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