Pro 1000 issue (FIXED)

COREY

COREY

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I am about to bang my head on the desk. I rebuilt the head on my Lee Pro 100 in 9mm about 1500 rounds ago (maybe less) and I have had little problems with it. Before that, it would not hold its timing; I replaced the plastic gear in the bottom they recommend and the nut the shellplate uses to rotate around the center rod (cannot remember name at this time). It has now started to come down to the end of the stroke and then seem to jump at the last second knocking it out of time; the entire shellplate seems to jump up a bit.

Does anyone have any ideas what may be going on here? I have one in 38 Special/357 Magnum that I have no troubles with at all.
 
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Could your drive bolt be worn??I also found on one of my pro 10000s the shell plate started to slowly unscrew to the point it would catch on the case sensor or pin that ejects loaded round out.Caused jams and knocked it out of index.
 
The drive bolt; that is waht that piece is called. I replaced that, the plastic ratchet gear, and the primer feeder also. I am going to take it off again (pulled it apart 100 rounds ago when it started acting up) and see what I can find going on. If I cannot find anything loose I may say f**k it and replace the enitre shell plate carrier; I will be near Higginsons on the weekend and it is an option.
 
you have one other option- take the 38 shellplate off and "build " the 9mm using that carrier and die set- the problem SHOULDN'T migrate between the two presses- if it does, you need a new shelplate- your 9mm has acquired a warp- I KNOW THAT SOUNDS LIKE A LOT OF WORK- just putting it out there
 
I pulled it apart tonight and took a look; I popped the ratchet out (which looked new) and put a new one in it just to see. I managed three rounds out of it before the timing went completely out of whack. I adjusted the timing with a screwdriver and tried it again; I got two rounds that time and a crushed primer (good thing I was using win primers). I am going to doulbe chekc the tightness of the shell palte, but I think it may be time for a new carrier.
 
Well at least Lee stuff is cheap.Maybe buy a new one and send the old one back to Lee with a letter on the problem and how po'd you are.You never know!They may rebuild it or send you a new one,I have had good luck with Lee before.
 
Thanks for the idea John; you never know when the other one may let go. I know that Dillon stuff is better, but I reload ~2500 rounds a year, not enough to justify the cost of a Dillon.
 
Well, I went Higginsons on the weekend and once we pulled it apart we realzided my previous hissy fit was what screwed it up. I had not tightened the carrier onto the ram properly; it had come off after a few hundred rounds. I got pissed off and tightened the bugger with a pile of force; well once a bit of grime got in there, ti was enough for the now oval holed that the gears turn in to jam up and s**t the bed. He was good enough to take the shell plae off one he had instock and decuct the entire cost of the shell plate off the cost of the carrier assembely. I was just using it and it is working slick as s**t. Oops :).
 
Thanks for the update. I am always looking for knowledge on the Lee as I have two setup that need to get the dust wiped off. I am being a serious procrastinator!
 
cbabes said:
Thanks for the update. I am always looking for knowledge on the Lee as I have two setup that need to get the dust wiped off. I am being a serious procrastinator!
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IF you want the primer feed to reliably feed the primers to the ram, you can do the following and it is CHEAP.

Buy a woorkboot shoestring.

In each of the "agitator" notches on the one vertical column (there are three notches), loop and double knot a tight loop. Cut off the excess and ensure that the knot itself is on the outside (away from the primer agitation rod).

The rod will do a "snap" with every piece of shoelace. So for every press movement you have shaken the primer tray (and it is forceful) 5 separate times to ensure that the primer chute is filled (Otherwise they can get caught up in the exit of the primery tray).

Neater looking, but tougher to do is some nice thick O-Rings to roll over the aforementioned column. However the shoestring method does not require disassembly.

I used to use the O-Ring method, but since I wore them out, I switched to the Shoelace method now and it works very nicely.
 
Jarlath said:
IF you want the primer feed to reliably feed the primers to the ram, you can do the following and it is CHEAP.

Buy a woorkboot shoestring.

In each of the "agitator" notches on the one vertical column (there are three notches), loop and double knot a tight loop. Cut off the excess and ensure that the knot itself is on the outside (away from the primer agitation rod).

The rod will do a "snap" with every piece of shoelace. So for every press movement you have shaken the primer tray (and it is forceful) 5 separate times to ensure that the primer chute is filled (Otherwise they can get caught up in the exit of the primery tray).

Neater looking, but tougher to do is some nice thick O-Rings to roll over the aforementioned column. However the shoestring method does not require disassembly.

I used to use the O-Ring method, but since I wore them out, I switched to the Shoelace method now and it works very nicely.
Click to expand...

Thanks. :cheers:
 
Thank you for that info Jariath; I have gotten in the habit of pullin ghte handle up and then down, tapping the primer tray, then seating a bullet and continuing the process.
 
JB said:
Why doesn't Lee just fix the problems as I'm sure they know that there primer feed SUCKS:mad:
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From what I have heard numerous times you can get them to run nicely with some effort. After you master them I have heard it's not frustrating. This has not been from my experience...yet. LOL I guess the way you have to look at it is you pay less and use your own labour to get it to work like a more expensive reloader.
 
Jarlath said:
IF you want the primer feed to reliably feed the primers to the ram, you can do the following and it is CHEAP.

Buy a woorkboot shoestring.

In each of the "agitator" notches on the one vertical column (there are three notches), loop and double knot a tight loop. Cut off the excess and ensure that the knot itself is on the outside (away from the primer agitation rod).

The rod will do a "snap" with every piece of shoelace. So for every press movement you have shaken the primer tray (and it is forceful) 5 separate times to ensure that the primer chute is filled (Otherwise they can get caught up in the exit of the primery tray).

Neater looking, but tougher to do is some nice thick O-Rings to roll over the aforementioned column. However the shoestring method does not require disassembly.

I used to use the O-Ring method, but since I wore them out, I switched to the Shoelace method now and it works very nicely.
Click to expand...

I used bailing wire tied tight, it works great.

JB said:
Why doesn't Lee just fix the problems as I'm sure they know that there primer feed SUCKS:mad:
Click to expand...

Because to put a positive raised "bump" on the support column would cost money and that would norrow the price gap on better machines IMO.
 
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