Problem SOLVED Thanks! =) - Stuck Case in Resizer - To freeze or heat?

Dies, even cheap ones - $30 on EE.

Stuck case remover - $5 at your local reloading store. Gas to local reloading store: 50¢. Time to remove it with proper equipment - five minutes.

Dies after pounding, hammering, drilling, torching, etc - worth 18¢ for scrap.

You can do the math.
 
I walked this walk not long ago.
I ended up with the case head pulled off and the rest of the brass
stuck in the die.
I had previously removed the decapping rod/pin assembly and tried to hammer
out the stuck brass.
So rather than replace the die, I took a gamble.
I went to the drill bit index and found a drill bit that would fit inside the stuck brass,
primer end. I proceeded to drill very slowly and the goal was to drill enough brass
and not the die. It took some careful time and effort but I did manage to drill enough
of the brass in the shoulder area to remove the bulk of the brass. What I ended up with
was the case neck in the die. I repeated the steps previous with drill bits that would just
fit inside the brass neck. I managed to get the brass out without damage to the die.
I figured the die was hooped so I gambled and won.
 
You are completely on the wrong track.
The decapping pin will not push the case out, it will only ruin the rod in the die.
Isn't there a threaded bushing on top of the die, enabling the whole decapping and internal sizing device to be removed?
Do that, then use a rod, like so many have told you.

I've been following the directions given by Lee. It's not working so I'll be using one of those fancy tools soon, hopefully I havent got it too jammed and it'll come right out.


[youtube]piTWcqhH3No&playnext=1&list=PLF653ACF97E74611E[/youtube]

Thanks for all the help guys!

Oh and I tried using a Redding body die on the other ones, except SUPER lubed up beyond the directions on the can. Again, got one jammed, so conclusion is Hornady One Shot lube is crap. Good thing I got them to send me some of the wax for free!
 
The decapping pin will not push the case out, it will only ruin the rod in the die.
Lee dies are designed to use the decapping pin to remove a stuck case. I've done it a few times, per the Lee instructions. worked fine. The key is to have the die in something solid while whacking the rod, like the press or a vice.

Having said that, a stuck case remover is cheap and does not involve a hammer, which is should be a tool of last resort most of the time.
 
with my RCBS dies have to use a stuck case puller but with the lee dies the decapping rod and a 20 oz framing hammer.after a while you will get a feel for when more lube is needed.
 
So yeah, picked up a REAL hammer and put away the wooden one, and the case came out in about 20 swift smacks!

Not sure why I was using the wooden one from the get go, I've only loaded 100 rounds so still a noob by all standards. I guess I thought the die was too delicate.

Anyway, lesson learned. Also I cleaned out the inside of the die and pulled out some black stuff (the cases I'm putting through them are clean).

Just came back from resizing 100 more cases, all without a problem (other than a few that were not lubbed up enough)

The Hornady One Shot does an alright job, just need to enhance the recomended dosage!



Cheers, and thanks for the help!



Oh and PS: If you've got the Pacesetter dies, do not remove that top nut that holds the decapper in!! It is an interference fit and it a ##### to get back on!
 
Next time thread the die in upside down into your press, put a quarter on top of the ram have it so that it touches the top of the decapping rod at near the top of the stroke. Loosen the rod as per lee instructions and then carefully apply leverage. Works like a charm.
 
Next time thread the die in upside down into your press, put a quarter on top of the ram have it so that it touches the top of the decapping rod at near the top of the stroke. Loosen the rod as per lee instructions and then carefully apply leverage. Works like a charm.

In order for that to work I would have had to unscrew the rod lock nut which is not recommended and hard to put back together, but that sounds like a good method if you could modify the coin to resembe a punch.
 
with my RCBS dies have to use a stuck case puller but with the lee dies the decapping rod and a 20 oz framing hammer.after a while you will get a feel for when more lube is needed.

that's b/c you have a threaded rod that changes pins, rather than the one-piece of the lee- my rcbs dies sit in their box, whereas the lees are in the press for that very reason-
 
In order for that to work I would have had to unscrew the rod lock nut which is not recommended and hard to put back together, but that sounds like a good method if you could modify the coin to resembe a punch.

where the heck did you hear/read THAT?- you undo the rod lod lock nut to allow your rod to move freely up and down so you don't scratch the heck out of the rod shaft- then , when you're done , you reset the rod so the decapping pin comes out the flashole, and the rod is sitting on the bottom of the case, and tighten the nut so that it doesn't pull free on extraction- it's a 2 minute job - so in conclusion, either the hammer or the upside down in the die system will work, as will the stuck case extractor- and you don't need to "modify"- the coin- it just goes right on top of your shellholder- ie you're blocking the primer hole so the rod doesn't slip into it- by using a quarter on top of the ram you're providing a bearing surface against the rod- btw, if you ever get a stuck pin, you're going to have to UNDO that not recommended and hard to put back together lock nut to reset the DEPTH on your rod- so much for what you've read/heard
 
When I said "unscrew" I ment to say remove, if you remove the lock nut it will be hard to put back together.


so in conclusion, either the hammer or the upside down in the die system will work... and you don't need to "modify"- the coin

On my die, when I loosened the lock nut, the pin was not pretruding out of the top of the die, so in order to apply a force to the stuck case, a punch like object would have to be inserted into the lock nut to make contact with the rod.

You can kinda see in this random picture how the rod sticks out on this guys die, mine is not like that and the rod was sitting inside the lock nut.

DSC_3464.jpg
 
first of all, how far is the decapping pin sticking out of the bottom?- chances are it's bottomed right out and that's why your rod is so short- lee typically cuts these things to be level or slightly above the nut- that way, if your decapper runs into a problem, the shaft sticks up like a sore thumb and you say "a-ha" there's a decapping problem; typically, somehow a berdan capped round has slipped into your stash, and you're feeling the anvil;or there a crimped in primer, etc-
the way to solve this is to get a piece of weld rod the same diameter as the shaft( you should be able to get it at any cdn tire store, etc; and put in the hole in the nut, butting it up against the rod- then cut that off with a hacksaw to where you like- or use a dremel- that way, if it happens again, your "punch" is already in place- just leave no gap between the weld rod and the decapping rod- the nut will center the welding rod on the decapping rod
you also NEED to hold the die body in place- it's a 3/4open end wrench needed
 
I tried inverting and using a quarter. All I got was 1 less phone call. Tried the tap and bolt, no luck. But could only get a hold of a fine thread tap, no fine thread bolt. So tried to "change" the thread on the bolt. Into the freezer overnight and still no luck. But little brass left in the base to "pound" on. I'm going to call Hornady, then it's off to the city for a new die AND a stuck case puller for next time.
Hornady New Dimension Custom in 243
Clint
PS CAN WE MAKE THIS A STICKY? PLEASE
 
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