Problem with "lee lock stud"

Duke878

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I got a "lee lock stud" with my 50th anniversary kit. For those that don't know, you screw the shell holder onto it and attach it to a power drill and it holds the case while you trim and debur and such.

My issue with it is that when you tighten it to hold the casing, it prevents the case trimmer gauge to be fully seated down and therefore trimming useless.

Does any one use this and if they've had this problem, how did you fix it? it's a cheap solution to those more expensive power trimmers and I'd like to make it work before I give up and move on.

Thanks!
 
Not clear on the problem you are having. Are you saying that the brass you want to trim is not contacting the cutter head? By how much is it short?

The Lee case length trimmers are not adjustable, and not all brass is going to be long enough to require trimming, even after one or two firings. The gauge is set to cut brass (iirc) about 20 thou shorter than SAAMI spec. The pin that goes through the primer hole is what bottoms out on the lock stud.

Have you measured your brass with calipers? If so, what does it measure?
 
Your cases are likely already shorter than the Lee trim length. So when you tighten the lock the cutter does not cut any material.

The base of the lock chuck need to be tight against the head of the case in order for it to trim to the correct length.

Measure your cases with a caliper or case gauge before trying to trim.

You can also check the cases by inserting the cutter into the case and seeing if the tip extends out past the primer pocket. If it does, you cases are already below trim length.
 
I'm trimming my .308 casings and they're measuring anywhere between 2.016 - 2.026.

My Lyman book says to trim them down to 2.005 to a max of 2.015

When I use the trimmer by hand without the lock stud+shell holder it trims to the appropriate length fine. When I use the lock stud and holder the cutter does come in contact with the casing or trims a minuscule amount.

Hope that clarifys my problem. Thanks
 
I'm trimming my .308 casings and they're measuring anywhere between 2.016 - 2.026.

My Lyman book says to trim them down to 2.005 to a max of 2.015

When I use the trimmer by hand without the lock stud+shell holder it trims to the appropriate length fine. When I use the lock stud and holder the cutter does come in contact with the casing or trims a minuscule amount.

Hope that clarifys my problem. Thanks
How do you trim without the lock stud? It is the base on to which the pin must touch to cut to the correct length.

All of the parts shown below are needed to trim properly:

Lee%20case%20trimmer.jpg
 
Not trying to insult you OP, but, did you de-prime the case? You need to allow the pin on the trimmer guide to pass through the flash hole and contact the lock stud base.
I have not had any of that problem, although I have had any number of factory cases be slightly below max length for the trimmer. Fire it once or twice and it will trim fine.
 
Not trying to insult you OP, but, did you de-prime the case? You need to allow the pin on the trimmer guide to pass through the flash hole and contact the lock stud base.
I have not had any of that problem, although I have had any number of factory cases be slightly below max length for the trimmer. Fire it once or twice and it will trim fine.

Yup primers out, and the above Lee diagram makes sense.

What confuses me is my BOOK! if I trim my cases like the diagram above, I won't get the desired length as described in my Lyman Reloading book... :s

Can someone double check the specs on .308 case lengths from a Non-Lyman book?
 
Make sure its a .308 gauge and not a .300wsm or other. My .308 gauge is 2.015" from tip to shoulder. If your gauge is longer than you can remove some material off the tip.
Also, ensure the shoulder of the gauge is tight against the cutter.
 
I use mine on a drill, I find however the lock ring does not hold the .223 case very well and if it's tight at the neck, the case will come loose.

I was going to ask if he deprimed as well, best that you don't assume that everyone knows all the steps.
 
Make sure the case length gauge is screwed into the cutter fully. I had that problem with a .308 one, eventually had to tighten it in with the cutte rin the vice and a piece of leather around the case length gauge and vice grips. It's a split screw to it gets harder to screw in the further you screw it in, and it needs to be right up against the cutter. For the 7 bucks, buy a cutter and lock stud for every case length gauge and shellholder, and you don't have to ever worry about "adjusting".
 
Ugh. User error! The gauge wasn't fully seated on the cutter. Guess that tiny bit make a WORLD of a difference! Thanks for the help guys!
Can you tell I'm new to reloading? :p

Also anyone solve the slippage issue when using a power drill? PITA!
 
We've all btdt. No problem. I found that if I have great length I'm trimming (ie/ taking 223 down to 222 after an FL size) I use a small set of vice grips to torque the case holder down a bit tighter.
 
I bought a Lee Zip trim and a Ball grip cutter. Much faster this way. I also use a Lyman flash hole debur tool and Lee chamfer tool on the zip trim.

Any other spinning case prep operations I chuck the tool in my drill press and hold case up to it.

I use vice grips to tighten and loosen case length gauges in the cutter.
 
Ugh. User error! The gauge wasn't fully seated on the cutter. Guess that tiny bit make a WORLD of a difference! Thanks for the help guys!
Can you tell I'm new to reloading? :p

Also anyone solve the slippage issue when using a power drill? PITA!

As was stated, don't bear down so hard when you first contact it. Neck tension combined with sharp teeth slamming into the case mouth is going to catch. Ease up just a little and go a little slower.
I had a young fellow over last week to introduce him to reloading. He found the entire process just too slow. While he didn't buy any equipment, he spent $600 in components because some guy gave him 800 military 7.62 cases. He bought enough components to reload the entire lot in one go. Then he sat down with absolutely no knowledge at all and proceeded to drill out the spent primers. I KID YOU NOT, DRILLED THEM OUT!!
When things didn't look right, he brought them to work. Sad situation. I will probably buy it all from him and convince him that he is better off buying surplus for his M-14 knock-off. Oh, which he does not own. That's right, some guy gives him 800 spent cases. Then he bought components and still does not even own a gun, but has decided that an m-14 will do the job. It was a rough night to do 50 cartridges.
 
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