Problem with scope.

Your base looks to have some value of cant. Your rings look ok as far as even gaps go. What is the problem you're having?
 
Look at your rings. On the side there is an "F" for front and a "R" for rear. You dont seem to have them backwards but you could try switching them. If it's a 20moa rail try turning it around
 
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Look at your rings. On the side there is an "F" for front and a "R" for rear. You dont seem to have them backwards but you could try switching them. If it's a 20moa rail try turning it around

No.. The Ferrel rings are quality and they are matched halves, don't ##### with them. And no, you don't just turn a canted base around...

If it's a 20 MOA rail you just might be out of adjustment to get a zero at 100 yards. If you are shooting long range and need the 20 MOA canted base then you need to zero at a greater distance than 100 yards(which is what most do when they shoot long range). If you're shooting at "normal" distances (under 1000) then you might be better off with either a 10 MOA base or a 0 MOA base. If I've lost you here then the answer is a 0 MOA base.

From what Weaver tells me on their website your optic has 55 MOA of elevation adjustment. That's total range not from centre, so from mechanical zero(centered) you have about 27.5 MOA of adjustment at 100 yards. With a 20 MOA canted base you now have about 7.5 MOA of vertical adjustment left in the down direction. The canted base mechanically induces a 20 MOA higher point of impact right out of the gate without any scope adjustments. If your rifle needs more than 7.5 MOA of down direction adjustment to zero you're out of luck which is likely what is happening. I bet your shots are all way too high am I right??
 
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From the last pic it looks like the bell of the objective lens is touching the base. This could be part of your problem. I agree that the bases have built in angle. At least twenty degrees
 
I think that a 0 moa base rail would fix the problem. No the bell is not touching the barrel .

Thank you !
 
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