Neck sizing for an AR-15 is ok?
Progressive Reloading For The .223
- Thread starter thump_rrr
- Start date
Neck sizing for an AR-15 is ok?
No.
And why is that?
Feel free to try and get back to us with your results.
You may find like most others, that semi auto's need the cases sized smaller than neck sizing only.
Neck sizing works great for bolt actions. Not so good for semi's and pump actions.
+1
some courageous folks will neck size for semis but it is not recommended due to increased chance of slamfire.. esp with soft primers.
If you do, I would make sure each bullet will chamber and seat in your barrel before I go nuts at the range. Just my 2 cents.
+1
some courageous folks will neck size for semis but it is not recommended due to increased chance of slamfire.. esp with soft primers.
If you do, I would make sure each bullet will chamber and seat in your barrel before I go nuts at the range. Just my 2 cents.
OK, we'll just agree to disagree and leave it at that
I neck size exclusively for my M14 and also for the .223 btw
- Location
- Kumankissmyass, BC
Jerry do you full length resize each time or neck size?..I have been told its best to full length each time for a semi-auto.
I am a noob reloader. Currently have a Rockchucker and RCBS dies for .308. I have a new LMT AR platform in 5.56, and access to alot of once-fired AE .223 brass. I would like to be able to reload this brass, and was considering the purchase of a Dillon XL650 setup for that purpose. It seems that there is alot to learn about managing the case prep for .223 in a semi-auto. I also note that alot of the brass that I have obtained has dents or damage to the shoulder of the case.
Where can I go to find out what dies to use, and what to be careful of so that I don't jam the press, create difficult stoppages, or slamfire situations.
I am sure these issues have been discussed before, but I seem to have difficulty with the search function...
I apologize to the experienced reloaders who will likely be tired of what is likely a fairly often-asked set of questions.
Where can I go to find out what dies to use, and what to be careful of so that I don't jam the press, create difficult stoppages, or slamfire situations.
I am sure these issues have been discussed before, but I seem to have difficulty with the search function...
I apologize to the experienced reloaders who will likely be tired of what is likely a fairly often-asked set of questions.
Resize your brass in a full length small base die. Otherwise you are inviting problems.
I used to get stuck cases fairly regularly. Now I rarely get them. The trick is to really spray the p!ss out of your brass with lube. Then when you think they're good and wet spray them some more. When you spray make sure to get some into the neck of the case. I stand them up in a tin bread pan and spray them at a 45 degree angle. Seriously use a lot of lube. I use One Shot case lube and RCBS dies for what that's worth.
To load I do the following (I use a Dillon 550B with 2 toolheads).
1. tumble brass
2. decap and resize
3. trim
4. Swage (crimped brass only)
5. Tumble cases again to get lube off
6. Back on the press stage with toolhead 2. Stage 1dDecaping die to get out any tumber media from primer pockets; stage 2 powder; stage 3 seat bullet; stage 4 crimp.
I used to get stuck cases fairly regularly. Now I rarely get them. The trick is to really spray the p!ss out of your brass with lube. Then when you think they're good and wet spray them some more. When you spray make sure to get some into the neck of the case. I stand them up in a tin bread pan and spray them at a 45 degree angle. Seriously use a lot of lube. I use One Shot case lube and RCBS dies for what that's worth.
To load I do the following (I use a Dillon 550B with 2 toolheads).
1. tumble brass
2. decap and resize
3. trim
4. Swage (crimped brass only)
5. Tumble cases again to get lube off
6. Back on the press stage with toolhead 2. Stage 1dDecaping die to get out any tumber media from primer pockets; stage 2 powder; stage 3 seat bullet; stage 4 crimp.
I notice that RCBS has a new set of dies called the "AR Series" which are small based, and have a taper crimp seating die. Does this sound like a good option? I think that I should start reloading the .223 on my Rockchucker and get comfortable before I purchase a progressive.
notsorichguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- The city that rhymes with fun
Great Idea!!!!
I just wish most people were that "smart" about reloading.......
IMHO you have no business using a progressive press untill you have at least a bit of time in on a single stage....... Most of the people I see out there who have squibs, duds & poor feeding ammo are all trying reloading for the first time using progressive presses...... Going back to Single stage loading is usually the best cure, once you understand what every single step is, and how/what to do progressive loading is a breeze.......
Ever wonder why it is that all the guys out there who use a Lee 1000 (without any problems) are all proficiant reloaders...... It is because they UNDERSTAND what is and should be happening. It isn't what you know when all things are working properly. It is what you know (and what you can fix/repair) when everything is falling apart.
Cheers!
The best crimp die on the market, by a wide margin, is the Lee FCD - it is trim-length insensitive and does not require a cannelure in the bullet. Small-based dies are a rare need. Having said that, the RCBS dies do come in a "Distinctive black RCBS® die box".
There seems to be a lot of differing opinion about whether or not to use small base dies for magazine-fed semi-auto carbines. I don't really have an opinion on the matter at the moment (obviously).
The bullets that were originally in the brass were cannelured 62 gr FMJ. I don't really have an idea yet what my 1:7 twist 16" AR is going to prefer, although I am getting the impression that a heavier bullet with this fast of a spin would probably be more accurate.
Do you think that the crimp is important to prevent the bullet from being pushed back into the case?
Also, is it better to ream the primer crimp or is it better to swage it?
The bullets that were originally in the brass were cannelured 62 gr FMJ. I don't really have an idea yet what my 1:7 twist 16" AR is going to prefer, although I am getting the impression that a heavier bullet with this fast of a spin would probably be more accurate.
Do you think that the crimp is important to prevent the bullet from being pushed back into the case?
Also, is it better to ream the primer crimp or is it better to swage it?
Swaging the crimp gives you a more consistant primer pocket. if your not doing to many the RCBS one works, get the Dillon if your doing thousands of them.
I put a little resizing wax on the swager tip with a qtip, makes it a lot easier to pull them off.
Awesome link! Thanks very much.
