Project Log: Cooey 60 Refresh

Avalonthas

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 99.2%
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Location
Toronto ON
I picked up a Cooey Model 60 for $50. It was in decent shape then a few imperfections. The bore is in excellent condition which was the selling point, as it made for an opportunity for me to test the waters refinishing a firearm. It was missing the magazine tube rod, but that's okay I will find one in the EE. The stock was in excellent condition, couple minor dings, and the finish was uneven; some areas being glossy, some being rough. The sight was bent and the blueing on the metal was worn off, and rusted in some areas.

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So I did some research, asked some questions, and started her up. I will continue to update as I add to the project.

First thing is first; buy some gear. There was an initial upfront cost, but considering the materials especially the liquids will last for years, the price tags did not concern me.

I started out by buying some Circa 1850 products from Rona (Home Hardware is an alternate) which came heavily recommended by my fellow CGN folks and sources on the internet. I picked up

Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover (1L, $12.99+HST)
Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper (250ML, $4.99+HST)
Circa 1850 Tung Oil (1L, $11.99+HST)
Bulldog #000 Fine Steel Wool (1 Pack, $3.99 + HST)
Bulldog #0000 Very Fine Steel Wool (1 Pack, $3.99+HST)
and an assortment of sand papers from 320 to 600 wet ($2 a pack)

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There is essentially no difference in the Heavy Body versus Furniture Stripper other then the Heavy Body was a bit thicker and more gelatin like. But in all intents and purposes, both would work equally well.

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I did 8 cycles / coats of stripper until the wood wouldn't get any lighter, so it would seem the original wood was of the darker variety.

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Originally I did not plan to do any sanding however I did concede to doing a light sanding job with one cycle of 400 then one cycle of 600 to get the very minor imperfections out. My focus was not to take very much wood off. I wasn't too concerned about every imperfection as this is just a test project for my first go. I wanted to do it right, while experimenting at the same time. If I spent an extra 3 days going super detailed I could use some rougher paper or wool and work out a lot more areas

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I was silly and did not take any before shots. But I took a damp towel and put it over the stripped/sanded wood and used an iron with heavy steam setting to raise some of the wood. I did it a long the entire stock and it did a good job on all the small imperfections eliminating some of them all together. On a couple of the deeper holes, I couldn't quite raise them enough to fill in the hole but it wasn't too bad, so I moved on instead of nit picked it.

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I then let her sit overnight to let all the moisture out of the wood from the steaming. I then moved into the tung oiling stage. From what I had read and been told, I was directed to use a "liberal" amount of oil and let it stand for 15 minutes. I dislike liberal, so I gave her a good soak :)

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After about 10 or 15 minutes I returned to the project and took a cloth to wipe off the excess and do a quick buff job on the stock. The shiny coating then transformed into a real nice tone, very similar to the original, but much more even and more more eye pleasing. Was nice and dark, I'm not a big fan of blonde wood anyways, and it had a slight shimmer to it.

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So I plan on having it soak in and cure over the next 24 hours and will go at it again for a couple more cycles with the upcoming coatings to be thinner and a little more buffing afterwards

For comparison sake here is what the original finish looks like compared to the current finish with a single coat of oil.

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So while I wait I moved on to the butt stock, which was originally had spotty rusting spots and had lost most of its bluing.

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So I gave it a good elbow grease run using a combination of fine steel wool to get rid of the rusting and a lot of the bluing remnants. I then moved on to some 600 grit wet sand paper to get rid of most of the remaining bluing. There are a few spots left to hit, but another day and I will be set up with that. Then some more steel wool to follow to buff evenly. I am debating about leaving it as is, maybe some polishing, or re-bluing it. I like blued metal, but I also like the contrast of the light grey on the dark wood. Time will tell

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And that is where I left off with this project. I will continue after new year celebrations :)
 
Same thing, I found that the regular 1850 stripper was more than enough.

Eight strippings,,, wow! I found that one or two really thick coats, waiting ten minutes and rubbing clean with a rag were enough.

Before you get too mch into it, will you ty a fine hand sanding while using the tungoil?
This puts a slurry of wood and oil mix into the micro imperfections and looks like a brighter showing of the grain when done.

I remember the golden colours that came out of my first Cooey 75 walnut stock the first time I tung oiled it. Something tells me you fell in love with the wood at that point too.

The first stock I refinished, I must have oiled and rubbed each day for two and a half weeks. The more patient you are and can keep oiling it, the better it will turn out. Resist the temptation to put it back together until a month has passed. Those small parts, That is what ziploc bags are for.

It looks like the metal is not quite that bad off.
The ones I refinished were right corroded before.
Keep taking your time fine wool polishing and bluing and you will have a beauty.

Keep the pictures and updates coming.
Happy New Year.
 
Looks llike you ended up with a nice walnut stock. 8 coats of 1850 seems a little much to me - at most I use 3. Usually one heavy coat, sits for 5 minuts, then wipe off, and a secon coat that I don't let sit at all - it gets put on fairly thick, hten I keep working it in witht he paint brush until I'm ready to wipe it off. Then a light 3'rd coat just to clean up any goobers left over from the first 2 applications.

You mentioned no noticeable difference in effectiveness for the two types of Circa 1850 ... I havne't tried the Body version of it, but I have a feeling it's the one I shoudl ahve used on a different project. I discovered that while the 1850 Furniture stirpper is outstanding on stocks, it was almost useless when trying to strip paint off of old metal - yet the same paint on wood peeled right off (was stripping some old ski's for a friend and the bindings has also been painted)

Looking good so far! The Tung Oil needs patience - which I have none of :p That's why I prefer the Spar Urethane on most of my stocks. I want the job done "Now!" and sitting rubbing oil into stock every night for weeks on end, on nothign more than an old Cooey, just isn't within my tolerance threshold.

As for the metal cap ... once it's polished to the point you want, if you like that color, get it very warm - Hot potatoe warm, but not burn your fingers warm - (I've just set them over a toaster for a minute) and then apply a good Gun Oil to it. It will suck in the oil, and the oil will darken it a little bit, though it will never look blued.

Looking forward to seeing the final result :cool:
 
I'd seriously investigate "slow rust bluing". It is easy enough to reproduce a very professional deep blue in a home shop without all the harsh chemicals. MUCH nicer than a cold blue. If you leave it as is i'd suggest you clear coat it with clear tremclad. That thing is going to rust up something awful with no protection.
Nice work on the stock!
 
So did you brush the tung oil on then wipe it off with a cloth? Or did you wipe it on by hand the off with a cloth? I heard that you are suppose to wipe by hand until it becomes tacky.

I used a sponge brush to apply the tung oil
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I didn't find it sticky or tacky at any point. I have noticed that Circa 1850 offers both there regular label Tung Oil (which I bought) as well as a Raw Tung Oil. I believe the raw Tung oil is the stick one.

After application I used a cloth to dry her up and rub her in a bit
 
I'd seriously investigate "slow rust bluing". It is easy enough to reproduce a very professional deep blue in a home shop without all the harsh chemicals. MUCH nicer than a cold blue. If you leave it as is i'd suggest you clear coat it with clear tremclad. That thing is going to rust up something awful with no protection.
Nice work on the stock!

I agree, I have been reviewing this process, doing some more research as I continue to oil up the stock
 
rust removal

Guys here is a product and a web site that offer a product that is the "Best " there is for rust removal www.frontiermetalcleaner.com

I have ordered a few extra of these if anyone in Alberta thinks they should have one. FS
 
Not a crazy update, its been slow due to work tying me up. However I did some work today on the bolt. The bolt had plenty of rust dusted all over, grease, gunk and the usual from an old dirty firearm :)

Basically went at her with a bronze brush, went through two if them, completely ruined the bristles before I could get her shining. I do plan on using some coarse wool on part of the knob as it still has some rusting/pitting to be fixed up. Then will use the fine wool to blend it all and shine her up a bit more. Then I go to the jeweling step :)

Last wood treatment goes on today for the weekly cycle (once per day for a week) then i move into the second cycle (once per week for a month) :) Pics to follow on that tomorrow

OLD:

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NEW:

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