Proper cheek weld.... how do YOU do it?

CanuckShooter

CanuckShooter

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I can't find any good info on the internet about cheek welds for shotgun shooting. It's something that's simple I'm sure, but if no one tells you how it's supposed to be done, how are you supposed to know? I am trying to find out how to get a proper cheeck weld in order to determine my proper LOP.

So, to all you accomplished clay/wing shooters out there.... what's your technique? I am trying to determine my proper LOP on an 870 Wingmaster. With the recoil pad on, it's exactly 14", and with the recoil pad removed it is exactly 13". Now, with the pad installed and LOP at 14", I have to tilt my head forward, and sort of hunch/slouch forwards and take a somewhat aggressive position on the gun. With the pad removed and LOP at 13", it seems a lot more natural and repeatable, as I simply have to tilt my head to the side and VERY slightly forward and I have my cheeck weld.

I wouldn't say that the 14" LOP is uncomfortable, I just have to take a bit more of an 'active' or as I said, aggressive hold of the gun... maybe I am fitting myself to the gun... which seems wrong. It might be uncomfortable after a few hours of shooting though. That might be why I frequently get a sore neck/headache after an hour or so.

The gun is also a bit easier, and quicker to shoulder with the 13" LOP as opposed to the 14". I don't have to adjust as much aftwer shouldering it.



So what about drop at comb and how it relates to your cheek weld? Where should the weld spot on your stock be indexing on your face? I seem to either index the stock a tiny bit above the corner of my mouth (which on my WM seems to put my head up too high to sight properly), OR I index the top ridge of the stock right under my cheekbone. They both seem comfortable... but which is right?


Man, I would have never thought shotgun to be so technical!
 
Crazy glue.

Seriously, unless you have had the gun specially fitted to you, you simply put your face where it needs to be in order to be properly aligned with the bore. Your cheek has to find that position on its own time and time again. And once you can do that, your mind has to make sure the cheek stays there. Press it in hard, or register your face with your hand, whatever. But once the gun is on the shoulder, lock it in.

When a gun fits you, all that is required is for you to bring the gun up and it will land in the correct spot; no shifting, craning, tilting, sliding, etc. required.
 
Interesting thing I discovered at a course a while back was the "hinge position" (I think that's right)..

Basically, hold the shotgun stocks bottom edge farther up the shoulder, so maybe only 20 percent or so is actually on the shoulder, the rest of the stock is up above the shoulder and allows you to easily get a good weld. I did a couple of days of shotgun shooting with this type of setup and put more than 300 rounds through a 12.5 inch barrel and not a single problem. Fast to acquire targets, worked with everything from magnum slugs to 7.5 shot.

YMMV.
 
I like the "hinge" position too as it comes very naturally for me, but with buck and slug it really increases muzzle rise. If you do it that way, you really have to get a cheek weld far back on the stock or you'll get a bruised/swollen cheek after a box of slugs. If it is clays and birdshot, I find it very natural.
 
In an effort to locate the perfect cheek weld, the gun wanders away, outward from the body. This happens because you tend to tilt your head in a contortive fashion for a sight picture, and/or a cheek weld and push the gun onto the wrong part of the shoulder. That's when the pain sets in. Especially with slugs.

Forget the cheek weld and concentrate on the target and keeping the shotgun in front of you. You don't need to think about a cheek weld much with a shotgun at shorter ranges. You need to see the target and the front sight in front of your nose. If you must have a cheek weld for whatever reason, bring the shotgun UP to your head, not the other way around. This strategy will almost always guarantee a good shouldering position. ... and keep the shotgun tight to your body.

During a three gun match, I've seen a shooter rest the buttstock of his gauge on his biceps while shooting around a barricade. Aside from poor control and misses, did he bruise himself bad that day.

If you're shooting around a barricade, step back away from it instead of wrapping yourself and the shotgun around it. :)

Shooting a shotgun should be easy, fun and comfortable. Beating yourself up ... something's definitely wrong.
If a shotgun fits your stature correctly and you have a good stance, shouldering a shotgun correctly will come naturally.

More fodder, more practice. :D Boom, boom, boom!
 
Thanks for the advice so far. I am definitely going to try that hinge position next time I am doing clays. Easy... all the shotgun shooting I do is clays, and is at a minimum of 25 yards which is why I am trying to get this cheekweld thing down.

When you guys are shouldering your best fitting shotguns, how far is the tip of your nose from touching your thumb?
 
Sounds like this shotgun just doesn't fit you.

While LOP shouldn't be way off, length of pull is more critical and should be fitted to you. There's a little trick to check length of pull. With your finger on the trigger, place the rear of the stock in the crease of your arm at the elbow. It will determine your approximate length of pull.



From what you are saying it sounds like you have a long neck, yet short arms if you compare yourself to the norm.
 
"cheek weld" is a rifle shooting term, and is not really appropriate for shotgun shooting unless you are referrring to shooting slug guns or American style trap with a pre-mounted gun.
A shotgun used for wingshooting and sporting clays is mounted in a dynamic sequence:
1. positioning the feet, 2. mounting the gun, and 3. the swing/shot/followthrough. Plenty of good instruction videos are available from wingshooting schools, such as Holland & Holland.
 
With the 870 you have to bring the gun to your cheek adn get the sight picture BEFORE you shoulder it. If you shoulder the gun first where it sits fully tucked into your 'shoulder' it will be too low and you will have to drop your head to search for the sights or bead. Bring the gun up to your face and line up the sights on target, then pull it into the shoulder, you'll find it is likely sitting a little high but that's the way they are since they don't have enough drop in the stock.

Also LOP is largely a personal preference, I cut all mys tocks a hair over 1" shorter than the bent arm method says. If you find you are short-stroking the gun a lot your LOP is likely too long, or you arms too short ;)

Hope that helps
 
Ok I am going to try the hinge technique as well as what you recommended Ike (ie bringing the gun up to my face to sight and then pulling it into my shoulder).

BerettaBoy.... I wish I could find someone like that but I don't think there are any in my area. Anyone know of a very competent shotgunner/coach in southern ON (I'm in Niagara) who could figure out my proper fit? Someone who REALLY knows their stuff down pat?
 
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