prvi 30-06 garand specific

hacer2 said:

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slyty said:
I've been using federal blue box 150's could that damage my gun?
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I would not make a habit of it , most factory soft point hunting ammo has powder with a slower burn rate optimized for bolt actions , and its loaded a bit too hot for a Garand , you can also have feeding issues and pushed in bullets causing dangerous pressure . its hard on the rifle and could very well damage it .. Stick with FMJ in semi autos ... The Garand needs a powder with a medium burn rate like IMR 4895 .. Factory ammo i can recommend is Privi FMJ , S&B FMJ and AE FMJ .. Pretty much any full metal jacket factory ammo is ok because it was made with semi autos in mind..
 
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I would take a can of 30-06 ammo at that price.
Gone are the days of walking into SIR in Wpg. and buying an ammo can...in pingys and bandoliers. I don't remember the exact number of rds. close to 400 maybe but it cost about $104.
 
$330 is US pricing, + it's not surplus.... I'd think we would be lucky to see it at $400 for the can. :( last time I bought PRVI 30/06 it was $21/box
 
If one is going to shoot an M1 a lot it pays to get into reloading for it. This will save on ammo costs over time and will allow you to use loads which are safe, reliable and accurate for the rifle.here are some caveats when reloading for a Garand;
1. Always FL resize your brass to facilitate easy chambering and avoid the possibility of an out of battery detonation.
2. Keep brass trimmed to below specified OAL to facilitate chambering.
3. Seat primers below flush with the casehead to avoid slamfires as a result of the bolt face striking and detonating a high primer on feeding/chambering. Also, the Garand features a floating firing pin and the inertia of the bolt will run it forward with a possibility of hard impact on a high primer.
4. Use the correct propellants for the rifle. Stick to IMR4894, IMR4064 or H4895 in order to generate the correct gas port pressure to cycle the action reliably and without damage to the op rod. As a bonus these propellants will also produce excellent accuracy. Most commercial .30-06 ammo is loaded with slow burning powder to generate higher velocity. These propellants are not suitable for the Garand and may damage the op rod-an expensive replacement. Some folks use an adjustable gas plug when firing commercial ammo to avoid this problem. I cannot personally vouch for them as I either use reloads or a stash of MILSPEC .30-06.
5. Only use bullets in the 150-168gr weight range. The Hornady 150gr FMJ is the most accurate and cheapest of the non-match FMJ bullets and can be bought in bulk lots. 150, 155, and 168gr match bullets from Sierra, Hornady or Nosler are all excellent, but more expensive.
6. Don't try to get more than 5 firings out of a piece of brass. The rifle is hard on brass. It wasn't built with reloading in mind.
7. CCI No34 primers are MILSPEC for the .30-06 as they have a harder cup which mitigates the possibility of as out of battery detonation caused by the inertia of the floating firing pin striking the primer on chambering. That said, these are hard to find and I have used both the WLR and Rem 91/2 primers for many reloads w/o a problem. Again, clean the primer pocket and seat the primer below flush with the casehead. Federal primers are soft and shouldn't be used in the Garand.

The rifle should also be lubed with grease per the manual before firing. Folks should make sure that the op rod spring is servicable and within the specified length. A too short spring will case the bolt to batter the rear of the receiver and will not cycle the action reliably. A too long or extra strength commercial spring will cause cycling problems as well.
 
purple said:
If one is going to shoot an M1 a lot it pays to get into reloading for it. This will save on ammo costs over time and will allow you to use loads which are safe, reliable and accurate for the rifle.here are some caveats when reloading for a Garand;
1. Always FL resize your brass to facilitate easy chambering and avoid the possibility of an out of battery detonation.
2. Keep brass trimmed to below specified OAL to facilitate chambering.
3. Seat primers below flush with the casehead to avoid slamfires as a result of the bolt face striking and detonating a high primer on feeding/chambering. Also, the Garand features a floating firing pin and the inertia of the bolt will run it forward with a possibility of hard impact on a high primer.
4. Use the correct propellants for the rifle. Stick to IMR4894, IMR4064 or H4895 in order to generate the correct gas port pressure to cycle the action reliably and without damage to the op rod. As a bonus these propellants will also produce excellent accuracy. Most commercial .30-06 ammo is loaded with slow burning powder to generate higher velocity. These propellants are not suitable for the Garand and may damage the op rod-an expensive replacement. Some folks use an adjustable gas plug when firing commercial ammo to avoid this problem. I cannot personally vouch for them as I either use reloads or a stash of MILSPEC .30-06.
5. Only use bullets in the 150-168gr weight range. The Hornady 150gr FMJ is the most accurate and cheapest of the non-match FMJ bullets and can be bought in bulk lots. 150, 155, and 168gr match bullets from Sierra, Hornady or Nosler are all excellent, but more expensive.
6. Don't try to get more than 5 firings out of a piece of brass. The rifle is hard on brass. It wasn't built with reloading in mind.
7. CCI No34 primers are MILSPEC for the .30-06 as they have a harder cup which mitigates the possibility of as out of battery detonation caused by the inertia of the floating firing pin striking the primer on chambering. That said, these are hard to find and I have used both the WLR and Rem 91/2 primers for many reloads w/o a problem. Again, clean the primer pocket and seat the primer below flush with the casehead. Federal primers are soft and shouldn't be used in the Garand.

The rifle should also be lubed with grease per the manual before firing. Folks should make sure that the op rod spring is servicable and within the specified length. A too short spring will case the bolt to batter the rear of the receiver and will not cycle the action reliably. A too long or extra strength commercial spring will cause cycling problems as well.
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Just starting out reloading .303 and 30-06 so useful information..thanks.
 
Just to resurrect this topic I attended the Kamloops gun show yesterday and saw that P&D Enterprises from Edmonton had the American Eagle Garand specific ammo for sale @ $22 for a 20rd box. This IS NOT the commonly available 150gr .30-06 FMJ loading which is also produced under the American Eagle label. Hornady also makes a Garand compatible 168gr Match loading, but I don't know if this is available in Canada.
 
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