PU Scope Elevation Screw?

Alfonso

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
53   0   0
Location
Okanagan
I own a 91/30 sniper and I have regretfully damaged my elevation screw located on the pu scope mount. I am wanting to replace both screws but with ones other than slotted screws. Does anyone know the correct size of these screws? I can't find the answer anywhere? Or even a location or site that I can order them from?

Thanks
 
I presume you are speaking of the jam screws on the plates. The screws on a PU are normally metric but can be SAE if made in China....... If you have access to BA screws, they also are metric with a slightly different pitch but will work.
 
I own a 91/30 sniper and I have regretfully damaged my elevation screw located on the pu scope mount. I am wanting to replace both screws but with ones other than slotted screws. Does anyone know the correct size of these screws? I can't find the answer anywhere? Or even a location or site that I can order them from?

Thanks
The elevation screws are 6mm x .75 pitch thread, not sure what you can find, slotted or something else.
Joce
 
I own a 91/30 sniper and I have regretfully damaged my elevation screw located on the pu scope mount. I am wanting to replace both screws but with ones other than slotted screws. Does anyone know the correct size of these screws? I can't find the answer anywhere? Or even a location or site that I can order them from?

Thanks

Hmmm...the staked screws.

I need to adjust mine as the reticle is too high up in the scope when on target.

With the screws staked as they are...are they a ##### to move?

I don't want to find out with that lovely feeling as the head turns...:eek:
 
Just for clarity, which screws? Set Screws(2) or Flat Round Head Screws(4).

Did both get damaged?
 
Last edited:
Hmmm...the staked screws.

I need to adjust mine as the reticle is too high up in the scope when on target.

With the screws staked as they are...are they a ##### to move?

I don't want to find out with that lovely feeling as the head turns...:eek:

They can be very difficult to move with out stripping the head. If you are trying to get the reticle lower, try to leave room for at least the 800yrd setting. You never know when you might need to stretch its legs a bit.
 
They can be very difficult to move with out stripping the head. If you are trying to get the reticle lower, try to leave room for at least the 800yrd setting. You never know when you might need to stretch its legs a bit.
Agree, i was able to remove both screws so i will lock them with a dab of blue locktite even if they dont turn so easily even after fully removed 1 time. With this setup, its preferable to have the reticle quite high when set at 100m so the longer range can be dialed.
Joce
 
Agree, i was able to remove both screws so i will lock them with a dab of blue locktite even if they dont turn so easily even after fully removed 1 time. With this setup, its preferable to have the reticle quite high when set at 100m so the longer range can be dialed.
Joce

Okay, maybe there was method to their madness? In other words, it should be high at 100 yards?
 
Okay, maybe there was method to their madness? In other words, it should be high at 100 yards?
Yes high at 100 yards(or meter) so you have enough movement for the reticle to dial at extreme ranges like 800 or 900m with a centered sight picture, to not forget the very very very optimistic 1300m elevetion range on the PU scope. If the reticle is centered at 100m, enough mouvement remain to dial 900 and with reticle placed at like ¾ of the scope picture from bottom for the 100m setting, than you can dial up to 1300 but the crosshair will be almost maxed to the bottom.

Joce
 
Back
Top Bottom