Pulling low/right.

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Camoman1

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Shot a couple groups today,100 and 300y, looks like I’m pulling some low and right, also did some 1000y work today and noticed the same thing. Groups are 10 shots and under 1moa but could be better. What would usually cause a low right pull? First I thought trigger pull but would that cause a low impact as well?

Pics rotated 90 deg left not sure how to fix that. View attachment 258212View attachment 258213
 
Not really sure, but I would think if it was trigger pull, like on a pistol, that your shots would go high left, just because of the motion on your front bag. With a rifle I would expect a cantilever motion, because of the front bag, that you don’t get with a handgun.

If I was to hazard a guess - I’d say cheek weld. I’ve had this where the first couple look good, and I wind up pushing down and in a little more, making my reticle go high left, and when I bring it back down I shoot low right. Then I’m pissed, so I bare down a little more, and it happens again. That’s when I know I need to step away, take a deep breath, and come back in relaxed. Or I just get more frustrated and chase them low, right time after time.
 
KePet said:
Not really sure, but I would think if it was trigger pull, like on a pistol, that your shots would go high left, just because of the motion on your front bag. With a rifle I would expect a cantilever motion, because of the front bag, that you don’t get with a handgun.

If I was to hazard a guess - I’d say cheek weld. I’ve had this where the first couple look good, and I wind up pushing down and in a little more, making my reticle go high left, and when I bring it back down I shoot low right. Then I’m pissed, so I bare down a little more, and it happens again. That’s when I know I need to step away, take a deep breath, and come back in relaxed. Or I just get more frustrated and chase them low, right time after time.
Click to expand...

Thanks that makes sense I could see that being the issue.
 
I'm thinking one or all of three things...

1) Mirage displaces the image easily the size of your groups. Best to test accuracy just as fog clears if you are lucky enough to be on the range when that happens
2) Parallax… Are you visually testing if the image is static in your scope if your eye is not perfectly centered? If not... again this could easily cause such displacement.
3) Cloud cover... were you shooting in a mix of sun and clouds, overcast, bright sunshine? Changes in light levels causes the image to refract and displace... then you are only shooting where you see and think the target is and not where it actually is.

What you can do is set a good rifle scope (with parallax dialed out) on a QD base and mount it to a Picatinny rail and mount the Picatinny rail to a aluminum bar with a 1/4-20 threaded hole in it. This way you can mount the scope on a tripod and use this rifle scope as a spotting scope.

Keep it low to the ground so it does not wobble.

Looking through the rifle scope as a spotting scope will allow you to have a static point of reference to where the target displaced during light refraction.

If you only shoot where the rifle spotting scope is aiming, regardless of where it appears to move, you will always be aiming at a point where the target actually is and not where it appears to currently be.

Myself, I use a welded one piece tripod with spikes on the feet so it's solid and cannot move with a Manfrotto 234RC Tilt Head. I tilt it so it just to my left so I can almost see it with my left eye, then I aim the rifle at the same point as the spotting scope is aiming.

The trick is to get the static spotting scope as close as possible to your left eye, or have a buddy call where to shoot for you.
 
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The recoil impulse has to be the same every time. When you touch the shot off, do the cross hairs move in the same way every time?
Then the scope picture goes black for an instant and..
Is your body positioned so that the scope picture is the same after the shot as before...i.e. doesn't hop somewhere laterally, or is it hopping to the same spot each time?
 
I would say pulling the grip.

Try this, behind the rifle check tension on your firing hands muscle directly over the elbow. If it is tensed you will pull the grip.

Try setting up and experimenting with exact to same thumb position on the grip and make sure that as the trigger is depressed that exactly the same amount of pressure is in the hand.
The only Thing to move is the trigger.

As the groups are moa size the precision is there. It's just a matter of finding the right amount of hand pressure and making sure you aren't squeezing the hand and you are only moving the trigger.
 
My 1st question would be about your set up! What stock are you using and how is it set up but more importantly, what kind of barrel? Manufacturers aside, I find that I pull my last couple of rounds if I am shooting at the same rate with a stainless barrel vs blued. If I have to use stainless for training or competition then I compensate with a longer cool down time for the barrel. Lead sled it and incrementally increase your time with each string is my suggestion.
 
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