They're all Russian as far as I know. I was told in the past to stay away of Norinco SKSs. Also, they are selling for $350 with 1120rds of ammo included ($199 stand alone). That seems like a fair price according to some web research, what do you guys think?
Here are my basic guidelines based on limited experience buying 4 Russkie SKS from Lever Arms last year.
1. Read as much as you can on SKS rifles in CGN, especially the stickies in the RED RIFLE FORUM
2. Bring a flashlight and a clean rag. You need the flashlight to see well through the glass cabinets and the rag to wipe your hands of oil, after handling your "picks"
2. Talk to the manager or a salesman, if you can. They are usually very busy and seem to be in a hurry but can be helpful in choosing the one you want. You need to tell them exactly what you are looking for. Do not be put off by their sometimes impatient manner, they can be nice guys, just not what you are used to in a less busy store. At the time I bought my rifles last year, there were a lot of buyers and so many rifles to choose from that Lever allowed each customer to physically handle and inspect only 3 pcs before making his decision. Therefore you had to carefully select your 3 pcs through the glass, hence the flashlight.
3. Using your flashlight, inspect the rifles through the glass. For me, the following are the important details to look for and specifically ask them for:
a. white (silver-colored) bolt carrier and bolt, (bolt carrier is what you
see with the handle, the bolt is inside the carrier)
b. silver (gold, if available) bayonet, (my non-refurb has a gold bayo)
c. blued (not painted) metal. A little surface rust will clean up easily, if
the blueing is deep and shiny in most areas. More important is the metal
should be smooth and shiny, without any visible pitting. If paint is suspected, try to scratch it with your fingernail, blueing will not chip but paint will.
d. matching numbers on bolt carrier, receiver, rear cover, trigger assembly, magazine, gas tube. Numbers may be stamped or electro-pencilled
e. if you like the solid birch stock, look for one with no cracks or repairs (that look like inlaid wood), preferably not forced-matched (meaning ###X'd out) then re-stamped. Usually a single set of numbers on the stock indicate a non-refurb unit, that's how I found mine.
But look out for sanded out numbers too...the stock will be wavy near the
numbers if sanded, you can see or feel the stock for the "wave".
f. ask for a laminate stock if that is what you want. Again look for non-forced match if you can. If laminate stock, select a matching laminate gas tube hand guard. Many shooter like lams for their look and strength.
Solid birch have been known to split/crack in the grip/wrist area.
Laminate stocks are definitely stronger overall than solid birch. They have the second reinforcing crossbolt in the grip area. They are also slimmer in the grip and transfer a little more felt recoil pressure. I prefer the look and feel of the solid birch stocks but like the strength of laminate, so I got one laminate unit, just because. If my solid birch stocks ever break, Tapco will come to the rescue.
g. try to find one without a refurb stamp. Three of my SKSs have very shallow refurb stamps (square or diamond, on the receiver rear cover below the TULA CIRCLE/STAR). The non-refurb has no stamp on the receiver cover.
IMO, non-refurbs are better than refurbs because they come with all-original parts. They were put together at the Tula or Izh arsenals by factory techs, not reworked by possibly less skilled techs. My .02 only.
h. if you prefer nice triggers, by all means dry fire those pieces that pass your cosmetic inspection. Choose one that is at least smooth, relatively light and not gritty….all SKS triggers are creepy and heavy but easy to tune if you are so inclined. There are several posts in CGN for trigger tuning.
i. if you want a chrome lined bore, choose a 1952 and newer rifle.
Read the SKS stickies because they contain lots of very important and helpful info.
