Pyrodex or real Black powder…which one is the most corrosive?

mico1

mico1

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Pyrodex or real Black powder…which one is the most corrosive?

I need to buy some BP components and some guys told me that real Black powder is suitable for traditional caplock rifle because it start burning easier and it is less corrosive than substitute.
What is you advice about that ?
Thanks !
 
No matter what is used, clean up:D The intent was to create a safer powder, as far as the effects on the metal, I would say one could argue the real stuff is better. I say Blackhorn 209 :D in cartridges, or down the front end.
 
Agreed, real BP is much easier to ignite, I'm not sure about corrosive characteristics with the substitutes, never use it.
 
Black powder residue is not corrosive. It is hygroscopic, though, and will absorb moisture if you live in a damp climate. If you live in Arizona, or Antarctica, it won't be an issue. On the East or West coast, or near the Great Lakes, different story. I have tested one old rifle, I left it uncleaned after firing 20 BP cartridges, and it never did rust as long as it was stored in a room with electric heat. Pyrodex, now that is another story. It caused rust even in a dry room, and practically overnight, too. Both are tough on brass, unless you clean it soon after firing. Again, Pyrodex is more corrosive on brass, but it is easier to clean up. Personally, I won't use Pyrodex for anything anymore.
 
Black powder IS corrosive, or the residue left behind is. It leaves potassium salts behind that will eat metal the same way any other salt does if moisture is present. People that live in humid areas will notice it much more than folks living in drier areas. Don't take chances, clean your rifle when it is not in use!

Can't speak on pyro or other substitutes as I don't use them either. Part of the charm of shooting black powder, for me anyways- is shooting black powder.
 
Pyrodex is more corrosive than black in all the articles i have read I used to use pyrodex pistol in my antiques because it seemed to clean up easier but It seemed to reactivate any old areas of rust and get them going again.
 
My experience is limited, but I have shot Goex BP and 777 substitute and found the 777 to cause a small amount of rust (which I was able to fix). I also though the real BP was easier to clean off the gun than 777.
 
I had problems with hangfires in my side hammer caplock using Pyrodex so now I only use real black powder in that rifle. Pyrodex and 777 works great in my inline muzzloloader.
 
Pyrodex seems to be a bit better at keeping the gradual build-up of fouling down on smaller bore guns but finding the right lubes and swabbing regime works even better.

I have experimented very little with pyrodex and not at all with any of the other new fangled stuff. Can't really figure out why I would bother. What I would like to find is a decent source of Swiss powder that I could afford to experiment with.
 
I've never used anything but black powder. You could get away with it in a cap lock, but it's touch and go in a flinter. As far as corrosive goes, they can both cause a problem, but I've always found black powder easier to clean up. More predictable as well. Other's mileage may vary ....
 
I was advised by an experienced blackpowder shooter that while pyrodex and 777 are less fouling, the perchlorate (I believe that's what he was talking of) content of pyrodex and 777 make them more corrosive. So you trade one evil for another.
 
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