QD scope mounts for 50BMG?

Gatehouse

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What are the options ?

Larue?

I've used Warne and Talley QD rings on hard kicking hunting rifles. But we may be in a different ball game here, even if the rifle is 35 lbs. :)
 
Spuhr?

I have ADM on a couple rifles, but they ain't 50BMG. Still don't think they would be an issue and far cheaper than some of the other listed.
 
I have some ERA-TAC adjustable inclination mounts with and without QD.
Very high quality product but a little bit pricey.
 
I would go with the LaRue 50 BMG mount if you can get it. The one I had looked pretty decent but I never did use it before I sold it. Not much options out there though.
 
Why can't you do the same thing with regular rings?? Just ensure than all your rifles have equivalent picatinny rails, and put a mark that you can use to re-position the front or back ring to when you re-mount it. as long as you put in it the same notch and pull it firmly against the leading wall on the notch, it should be just as good.

The QD mechanism is just a faster version of a FAT torque wrench, and way more money.

Mr. Spuhr himself was quoted at SHOT 2016 saying "don't get QD unless you absolutely need it".

Get some good rings (?ATRS?), and a FAT wrench, and be done with it.

This is a guy who loves toys (often unnecessary ones) saying this.....

GGG
 
QD with levers isn't really required. Using a tool is fine. I have had some mounts stay consistent from mount / dismount and some that aren't. Even with same placement on the rail. One piece base systems seem to be more forgiving than two seperate rings, although my hunting rifles have seperate rings so go figure...:)
 
QD with levers isn't really required. Using a tool is fine. I have had some mounts stay consistent from mount / dismount and some that aren't. Even with same placement on the rail. One piece base systems seem to be more forgiving than two seperate rings, although my hunting rifles have seperate rings so go figure...:)

You could do a one piece NF or Spuhr or Near???
 
QD with levers isn't really required. Using a tool is fine. I have had some mounts stay consistent from mount / dismount and some that aren't. Even with same placement on the rail. One piece base systems seem to be more forgiving than two seperate rings, although my hunting rifles have seperate rings so go figure...:)

So now you are saying it's not required. Most one piece mounts will return to zero but why do you want to remove it in the first place?
 
When I thought about it more after Gunnegogos comments I realized I didn't really need a lever set up. What I really need is repeatable and will withstand the 50 cal. I want to remove the scope for easier transport, so it will get mounted and dismounted several times a week. But I'm not backpacking with it, I have it at the range. So using a tool is fine.
 
Why can't you do the same thing with regular rings?? Just ensure than all your rifles have equivalent picatinny rails, and put a mark that you can use to re-position the front or back ring to when you re-mount it. as long as you put in it the same notch and pull it firmly against the leading wall on the notch, it should be just as good.

The QD mechanism is just a faster version of a FAT torque wrench, and way more money.

Mr. Spuhr himself was quoted at SHOT 2016 saying "don't get QD unless you absolutely need it".

Get some good rings (?ATRS?), and a FAT wrench, and be done with it.

This is a guy who loves toys (often unnecessary ones) saying this.....

GGG

I've had really good luck with atrs rings. They do return to zero pretty damn well. Swapping the TT between my ar and 22, kept the zero quite well. Fairly reasonably priced and quality is high.
 
When I thought about it more after Gunnegogos comments I realized I didn't really need a lever set up. What I really need is repeatable and will withstand the 50 cal. I want to remove the scope for easier transport, so it will get mounted and dismounted several times a week. But I'm not backpacking with it, I have it at the range. So using a tool is fine.

The only kicker to my plan is that your rails have to be to the same spec. If the notches are off from one to the other, then you're hosed. This is why I replaced the two piece rails on my Tikka's to solid ones.
 
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