Question about F-class rifles

fat tony

fat tony

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Okay I'm kinda sorta thinking of getting involved in F-class rifle shooting here in NS, problem is I don't really have a lot of options in left handed rifles, this is the one I was considering:

http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/left-hand/model_700_VSF.asp

700vsf_lh[1].jpg


I very briefly considered a 40-XB but the price made me pucker up some parts of me, and that isn't the only thing, you need nice rings, scope, a 20 MOA base, a nice spotting scope. As for caliber, I was thinking about plain vanilla .308 Winchester, I'm not up to speed on reloading for one and I thought I would start with a more normal caliber. I think there might be a bit of a steeper learning curve for something like say 300 Winchester Magnum :confused:
 
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I'm thinking this is probably the 'best' rifle for a newb such as myself, not as costly as a 40-XB and still pretty nice, and I can use what I would spend on a 40-XB on a base, rings and scope. I don't really have anything right now I would consider suitable for that class of shooting anyways.
 
I am looking at the same rifle for the same purpose...in the same province!

I have a couple other cheap bang sticks I have been playing with lately but the time is coming when I will stop playing and get serious about some decent gear.

There are lots of guys around Halifax who load for 308 and can help you out to get started. Drop me a PM and we can go out and test the new bedding job on my Stevens .308

V7
 
For F Class shooting, you don't need a spotting scope. Given that you are firing prone using two rests, would a left handed rifle be important? You need a good, repeatable scope, but Burris rings with inserts will work fine instead of a slanted base, at lower cost. For a less expensive rifle, for F(M) class, a Savage would be a viable option.
 
The folks in NS also run service rifle matches, .223 or .308 would be good choices since you can compete in both F class and service rifle.

Cheers
 
FT,
You might want to contact your local PRA (check with the DCRA also) first - that way you can getting a better understanding of what shooting out to 1,000 yards is all about. Some PRAs organize "intro" days for newbies.

That is the exact same rifle I started with. Put a decent piece of glass on it (important to see your target), trigger job and bedding and you are GTG.
Great way to start. Blast away until you have worn out the barrel - by which time you will have decided whether you want to stick with this discipline.
Practice is key to improvement - as most factory rifles will shoot out of the box.
Speaking from experience - being LH is a challenge. LH is not readily available since it is a very small percentage of the production volume. This is further compounded when you are looking for a heavy barrel with a specific twist rate.
You can get some decent match ammo (rolled) - but you will find that reloading will be the answer.
 
If you are just looking to get into the sport and do not wish to spend a lot of money check out the Savage 12FTR. http://www.savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=Savage Model 12 F-TR Rifle Review

It is a good entry level shooter and has some of the design features that the 40XB doesn't such as the flat forend and longer barrel, which is especially useful in trying to keep the .308 supersonic at 1000. I have no personal experience with one but the write ups and favorable comments by others is enough to give it a serious look.
 
tiriaq said:
For F Class shooting, you don't need a spotting scope. Given that you are firing prone using two rests, would a left handed rifle be important? You need a good, repeatable scope, but Burris rings with inserts will work fine instead of a slanted base, at lower cost. For a less expensive rifle, for F(M) class, a Savage would be a viable option.
Click to expand...


I agree with Tiriaq, my hunting rifle is left, but for a bench or F-class rifle I won't spend any extra coin.

Actually, I prefer off handed for a bench rifle, I suggest you try it before spending any extra $
 
Some points to consider:

how far are you competing? If 600yds and under, there are many options. The 6BR is a wonderful choice. If always beyond/out to 1000yds, a 6.5 is hard to beat.

Will all shooters be lumped together? There is little point with a 308 if you are shooting in the same class as 6, 6.5 and 7mm shooters. However, if segragated with 223/308 as in F(F), I would suggest a fast twist 223 instead. Same ballistics 1/3 the recoil, 1/2 the costs. You don't get points for a bruised shoulder or fatigue.

How competitive do you want to be? Just trying it out or do you want to have results early on? For what a factory Rem costs, you can build yourself a much more accurate better suited rifle WITH a proper stock. Stock fit is so very important in all forms of competitive shooting.

Do take the effort to find a LEFTY action. When shooting prone, the last thing you want to do is have to wobble from side to side working that action. This disturbs your rifle/rests/body position WAY too much. I am right handed so work the action and feed with my right hand. All weight is on my left for balance and rear bag control. There is very little movement between shots. Form is key to consistency.

I shoot a customized Stevens 200 in a 6.5 Mystic. You can follow the link in my sig line to learn all the details. Because I built my own stock, the entire package is less then the Rem you are looking at. Adding a stock would be about $250 to 450.

Shoots well enough to let me place on the podium.

You certainly don't need to be as elaborate which will drop your price but you will have a much more accurate, and consistent rifle right off. F class is about driving your bullet and consistent accuracy is crucial to learning and getting good scores.

There are a number of F class rifle builds further in this forum. Cyan1de has put together a very nice shooter. Other variations are easily made.

Reloading is a must no matter what you choose to shoot.

Enjoy the shooting. F class is way too much fun.

Jerry
 
PGW Steve said:
I If you are holding a sand bag and you go to open the bolt and it is sticky, what do you do? You have to move your bag hand to grab the rifle so it's just a bunch of extra movement and throwing your balance off.
Click to expand...

For me, I just rotate my left hand off the bag to the stock (about 1/2"). The left arm/hand doesn't need to leave the ground and I don't change my balance/form/position. A flat bottomed BR style of stock puts the stock/bag and hand in very close proximity. The tapered varmint/hunting stock style is more problematic and why I don't use this shape/style. Plus they move around too much.

I put my weight/brace myself on my left forearm. The left hand puts pressure on the bag to tweak my aim. There is just enough weight on the right elbow for balance and I have little contact with the stock with my shooting hand.

Essentially, I am shooting a modified form of free recoil.

After the shot, I just reach up for the bolt, open, pop a new shell into the action, close and get ready to make noise again. I rarely need to move my left forearm and my weight doesn't shift. I can also write down my score to double check with my scorer. This has proven to be most useful to settle disputes.

Some can also fill in their plot sheets.

With the honking big opening in all commercial hunting actions, there is little issue looking into the action to see if the action is loaded or feeding. Pretty hard to screw up as we are shot one load one.

Thanks for sharing how you shoot left handed. That is very interesting. I am sure that if you were right handed you would shoot a left port action.

Different strokes for different folks. Good stuff.

Jerry
 
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The left handed Rem with the alloy bedding block is a good choice, Burris bases rings and offset inserts are the easy solution. If you go 308 you have only a very restricted list of scopes that will have enough elevation, 50MOA at least, and that includes the 10x bushnell, the Super Sniper or the Leupold VX 2 or 3 target versions, to name examples. Match 308 ammo is available and the NSRA should be able to point you in the right direction.
Another option would be to look at the heavy barreled 6.5x55 that Tikka make. the calibre outperforms 308 at long range and you can get factory fodder at reasonsable prices. Rifles are advertised cheaper than that Remmy. As others have said the Savages are good too, and the latests Savage FTR in 308 is awesome for the price. Excellent F material.
 
"...made me pucker up some parts of me..." Scary isn't it?
"...start with a more normal caliber..." Nothing is more normal than a .308. Think 168 grain match bullets with regular large rifle primers and IMR4064 out to 600 yards. A 175 grain Matchking with the same powder past 600. Be advised that match grade bullets are not cheap.
 
Lapua 154 scenars are $35 for 100, are absolutley top shelf and avail here in town.

Can't go wrong.

$65ish for 100 Lapua brass and you're almost ready to go.
 
fat tony said:
Okay I'm kinda sorta thinking of getting involved in F-class rifle shooting here in NS, problem is I don't really have a lot of options in left handed rifles, this is the one I was considering:


700vsf_lh[1].jpg


I very briefly considered a 40-XB but the price made me pucker up some parts of me, and that isn't the only thing, you need nice rings, scope, a 20 MOA base, a nice spotting scope. As for caliber, I was thinking about plain vanilla .308 Winchester, I'm not up to speed on reloading for one and I thought I would start with a more normal caliber. I think there might be a bit of a steeper learning curve for something like say 300 Winchester Magnum :confused:
Click to expand...

Jump in my friend, get a rifle and get shooting. I guarantee that if you are in the sport to stay, you will immediately see that your future lies in customizing one piece at a time anyway, or even picking up a used rig with all the work already done.

I was interested to read PGW Steve's comments... one of the best shooters I know, Dennis Lapier is a leftie but uses right handed actions and swears by them. You have to live with this, but in my mind it isn't a problem.

If you want gun suggestions... XR 100 in 223, Savage LRPV in 223 or if you can find on, get it in 6BR, otherwise, jump in....fwiw there is a used benchrest rig for sale in the EE on a panda action and it is a steal.
 
I think the 308 is a good choice in a factory chambering. I can compete quite well with a 308 if I want to. I have to say though, when it came time to rebarrel, I'd go with a 6BR!. Just way easier to shoot. Regards, Bill.
 
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