Question for all you AR15 experts
- Thread starter schumy
- Start date
thank you
If the gas tube was my only option, I may try swaging down the end of the tube that goes into the carrier.. This could be accomplished (theoretically) by using a metal block with a tapered drill hole. Tapping this down on the tube would evenly taper the end, making the orifice smaller.. provided the length did not increase enough to interfere with the bolt closing
- Location
- East ontario
out last run was fall 2013 If I remember
bbb
- Location
- East ontario
yep soon as the market picks up and US MFG stop selling them for less then it costs to make them.
we cant match the price that AR15,s are selling for in the last 2yrs.
Most people in Canada are looking for cheaper, not high quality, hence the reason made in china products do so well in Canada.
Not saying all buyers are like that, but just a large amount of them. we cant sell a large amount of AR15 barrles and bolt carriers bbls $200 inch BCG $180 when you can buy a Norinco M4 complete gun for $550.
Our AR15 products are good, really good but would not demand the price point that say and LMT,KAC or Noveskie would, so its hard for us to sink $100k into a project just to be told " hey I cant buy an NEA or Norinco for less, what the deal" its insulting ....
But I do understand where the buying public is coming from..
we have had some good over seas contracts, if one of those happens again this year or next, we will run extra and have them for the Canadian market.
S&J
Actually, I did offer reasons, they were 1) gas tube will plug - perhaps if I said gas tube will plug "very quickly" - it's ammo dependant of course, but you'll need to be cleaning the tube much more frequently than on an unmolested tube. 2) It will weaken the tube. Yes, it's steel - for a reason - and it will fracture if you collapse (sounds extreme, but any deflection in an extruded tube is a 'collapse') the walls, the strength of a tube is derived from it's shape, once the shape is gone, so is the strength. In addition, stressing a tube in this way can very easily cause incipient stress fractures, depending on how brittle the tube is. I don't know the metallurgy of gas tubes and since there are at least 2 different metals used to produce them, and the OP didn't specify, (could be stainless and not at all malleable, might not be) neither does anyone else outside of the manufacturer. Not trying to be a dink, just suggesting that this solution isn't a particularly good one, given A) the pressure involved, and B) the profile of the way the pressure builds. If it solved the problem, it'd be more common. Manufacturers, particularly Colt, spent a lot of time developing (with the US mil) the formula for reliable short barrelled carbines, they didn't use an adjustable gas block and it didn't involve pinching the gas tube, it did involve using a heavier buffer and different springs. Additionally, as a suggestion I would check the tension on the extractor, and the strength of the ejector spring, both of which can effect the pattern of ejection. Crimping the tube sounds like a simple solution, and on it's face it is, but you're dealing with some very complicated forces at work and you don't have control of most of them. As with all advice on the internet, my advice is worth exactly what it cost - so is everyone else's.
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- Location
- East ontario
yep anything like that we can do, but we may move it up to .750 at the gas block, not .620 just to make it easier for everyone to get parts like gas block or sight towers
Great responses in this thread guys, thanks for your help! So based on all your comments I did more research online and went with a few possible solutions, which should also help reduce some of the recoil.
First I got a new David Tubb buffer spring. This is the chrome silicon flat spring that is supposed to add more resistance. Next is a 9mm heavy buffer from RRA. This might end up being too heavy, but hey worth a try. To finish up my trifecta, a new extractor spring kit which is supposed to beef up the stock setup (this one won't really do anything else than avoid any potential double feeds or partial extract if I don't get clean ejection).
I will try different combinations of spring/buffer and see what works best, if both the new spring and buffer still lock back on an empty mag I will keep it like that, hopefully it will smooth out the action and reduce the kick.
First I got a new David Tubb buffer spring. This is the chrome silicon flat spring that is supposed to add more resistance. Next is a 9mm heavy buffer from RRA. This might end up being too heavy, but hey worth a try. To finish up my trifecta, a new extractor spring kit which is supposed to beef up the stock setup (this one won't really do anything else than avoid any potential double feeds or partial extract if I don't get clean ejection).
I will try different combinations of spring/buffer and see what works best, if both the new spring and buffer still lock back on an empty mag I will keep it like that, hopefully it will smooth out the action and reduce the kick.
