Question for Lee-Enfield gurus

tootall

tootall

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DSC_5151_zpsb1aee2a6.jpg


On the left is my Longbranch No4 Mk 1* with full wood, and on the right is a Brit made No4 that has been sporterized that was given to me recently.

I really like the feel and look of the sporter one. it really handles nicely, so I want to cut down the other one, too.


I'm not much of a woodworker so I'm wondering what sort of hand saw is best?

Should I use a crosscut saw, and go for a more aggressive rip saw?


Ahem... Yeah, I'm yanking your chain.

OK, for real... I was given the sporter yesterday and it is missing the bolt. I tried swapping the Longbranch bolt into the UK one but it does not fit.
A closer look shows that the area around the charger guide (is that called the bridge?) is different

DSC_5152_zps913f6294.jpg


DSC_5162_zps3f2adf8f.jpg


There is just enough extra steel to block the LB bolt from closing in the UK action. Here you can see it about to bind.

DSC_5160_zps143cc4d7.jpg


So what do I need to know?
Also, there is a small serated button or latch on the right side of the sporter that is not present on the LB. What is that all about?



EDIT - PLEASE RECOGNIZE THIS AS MY JUST MY GOOFY HUMOUR AT WORK!
I have had two PM's offering to trade cut down wood for my virgin stock already. :)
 
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Unless I don't understand the issue correctly:

From that last picture, turn the bolt head clockwise, while pressing down on the "bolt head release". Push the bolt forward. You need small fingers and three hands!

That's the difference between the Mk1, and the Mk1*

Lou
 
X2 what Lou said...you gotta turn the bolt head down clockwise. The serrated button is the release to allow you to turn the bolt head counter-wise to remove the bolt.
 
You'll see at the front right side of the LongBranch Mk 1* there is a slot in the track for you to lift up the bolthead- the British rifle doesn't have that slot.
Now, on a BSA-Shirley sporter I have, it had a Mk 1* sported stock fitted- and the button just would NOT push down. It bottomed out in the wood as the wood was not recessed in that area. I had to remove the sporter stock just to get the bolt out!!!
 
Whale oil beef hooked!
It is exactly how Lou explains it. Thanks! :)

It took me less time to get an answer than to take photos, upload to Photobucket , then post here.
you guys are awesome.

So I swapped the LB bolt into the Mk 4, it fits and "fires" (empty chamber)
Now I need a complete bolt, any leads?
And I know the LE uses changeable heads of different size to control headspace.
I suppose I need to get a bolt first, then have a gunsmith test it with Go/No Go gauges?
 
I prefer on of these for everything
no84hacksaw.jpg


Trade ex, Marstar or Epps might have complete bolts, as well as bolt heads of varying sizes. Or try looking the the milsurp ee parts section.
 
I had a quick look at the Marstar site, but they dont list complete bolts, only piece by piece.
Probably cost $200 to buy all the bits!
I'll try Epps tomorrow, thanks :)
 
Canadian Tire has a real good deal on a 36-inch table-type belt-sander, $169.

Just RIPPPPP and away goes that ugly black Amy finish.

Bit careful you can use it to smooth out the muzzle after you hacksaw those stupid bayonet lugs off.

Great for reshaping the wood, too!

Heck of a deal!

BTW, all that "headspace gauges" stuff is fer wimps. Just throw in the ammo and bang it off; if the cases bust ahead of the rim you'll know it was lousy ammo.

(Actually, headspace specs for this rifle are the same as for the SMLE: .064" is Min, .074" is Max. Because the Cartridge is RIMMED, headspace to a great degree is governed by the thickness of the Cartridge Rim. Max RIM thickness is .063"; combined with MIN RIFLE hadspace, it gives you .001" of free play. Normal Mlitary Rim thickness runs .059" to .063", with every effort being made to keep it as close to Max as possible. Defence Industries (DI Z DATE headstamp) all wa noncorroswive and nonmercuric and it was all extremely close to perfectly Max rim thickness. I have military gauges now, but used to take my headspace by using a DI casing with the .063" rim and adding thin strips of tinfoil from my hat, adding it all up to gauge headspace. You can pretty much obviate the necessity of replacing bolt-heads by fireforming your ammo to YOUR chamber and then headspacing it on the shoulder like a rimless round. Best way to do this is with Ed's Famous O-Rings (or pony-tail ties) on the cartridge body ahead of the rim; your round will be held back against the boltface, permitting perfect expansion with zero risk. You then reload, neck-sizing only and you have perfct ammo!)
 
Holy smokes, SMLE !
Is there anything about crusty old milsurps you dont know?

Tin foil from your hat?
 
smellie said:
Canadian Tire has a real good deal on a 36-inch table-type belt-sander, $169.

Just RIPPPPP and away goes that ugly black Amy finish.

Bit careful you can use it to smooth out the muzzle after you hacksaw those stupid bayonet lugs off.

Great for reshaping the wood, too!

Heck of a deal!

BTW, all that "headspace gauges" stuff is fer wimps. Just throw in the ammo and bang it off; if the cases bust ahead of the rim you'll know it was lousy ammo.

(Actually, headspace specs for this rifle are the same as for the SMLE: .064" is Min, .074" is Max. Because the Cartridge is RIMMED, headspace to a great degree is governed by the thickness of the Cartridge Rim. Max RIM thickness is .063"; combined with MIN RIFLE hadspace, it gives you .001" of free play. Normal Mlitary Rim thickness runs .059" to .063", with every effort being made to keep it as close to Max as possible. Defence Industries (DI Z DATE headstamp) all wa noncorroswive and nonmercuric and it was all extremely close to perfectly Max rim thickness. I have military gauges now, but used to take my headspace by using a DI casing with the .063" rim and adding thin strips of tinfoil from my hat, adding it all up to gauge headspace. You can pretty much obviate the necessity of replacing bolt-heads by fireforming your ammo to YOUR chamber and then headspacing it on the shoulder like a rimless round. Best way to do this is with Ed's Famous O-Rings (or pony-tail ties) on the cartridge body ahead of the rim; your round will be held back against the boltface, permitting perfect expansion with zero risk. You then reload, neck-sizing only and you have perfct ammo!)
Click to expand...



Hey I just bought one of those and have not set it up in my shop yet.

Just send me that overlong stock and I'll send one back all shortened up for you ;)

be a good project for me to get started on :p
 
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