Questionable accuracy tikka

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Odawg

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My brother has a tikka varmint in a 25-06
It does not group well at all at a 100 yards it will group 1.5 in a 5 shot group but the 6th might go 5 inches high and the next 5 will group again and so on and so on
He's tries many different factory ammo
The barrel was broke In properly and is cleaned properly every 40 to 50 rounds
Has anyone any idea what could be happening here
 
Check to see if the action screws are tight, they may be loose letting the reciver move around in the stock.

What kind of scope and have you check it on another rifle

Check the rings and bases to be sure the screws are tight.
 
Many shooters will shoot a 3-shot group on a deer rifle, and 5-shot groups on a varmint gun. 6+ rounds may be a bit much, shooter fatigue or flinching might become an issue. Don't switch ammo too much.

Leave the barrel fouled for a longer period of time. From a clean barrel, 4-5-6 rounds may need to be fired before there is enough consistency from shot to shot.

~ Tighten guard screws.
~ Tighten base screws.
~ Tighten ring screws.
~ Make sure crosshair is square to receiver.
~ Use a small aiming point.
~ Check for freefloat with a cold barrel, and with a hot barrel.
~ Be consistent with shooting technique.
~ Let barrel cool more between shots.
~ Make sure the shooter breathes enough, a lot of shooting is a lot of holding your breath.
~ Be wary of heat waves.

~~~~

You didn't mention the scope or rings and bases.
~ Make sure scope and covers do not touch barrel.
~ Adjust parallax.
~ Make sure comb height is sufficient.
 
I`m thinking bedding, if screws are loose it shouldn`t group at all. A bad scope usually goes all over but stranger things have happened, try another if possible. One shot taking off like that usually points to a bedding problem or a bad flinch. Varmint barreled rifles are usually very accurate, my t3 lite 204 will do 3/4" or less with reloads but factory loads are 1-1.5".
 
Bed the action, plus pressure on the barrel.
On the front of the stock place a temporary block of a material such as folded paper, so it takes about five pounds of pressure to pull the barrel away from the stock, when screws are tight. If it works, make the block permanent.
From what you describe you can rule out ammunition.
 
Make sure the aluminium bedding block is properly seated in the recess in the stock, as well as in the groove in the action, before tightening the action screws.
 
Thanks for all the insight going to check a few of these things this weekend I'll let u know if I find anything
 
This is very unlikely, but I read an article in a rifle mag one time about a similar problem. It was caused by a burr on the rifling. Apparently with each shot fired there is a deposit of the guilding copper from the bullet left on the burr and it wil keep increasing in size as each shot passes through the barrel and then once it gets large enough it will be dislodged and attach itself to one of the bullets and cause a flyer. They said the flyer will be repetitive and showed some examples and showed the burr on the barrel with a bore scope.

Just some food for thought. I would certainly exhaust the simplest solutions first.
 
T3 in 308

I have a tikka T3 Lite in .308
it shot 2" three shot groups at best. I was talking to a friends father who was a gunsmith. He suggested I replace the aluminum recoil key with a fitted one made of steel. I made one out of a piece of scrap 1018 hr steel. I made it about a thou or two thicker then sanded it to a tight fit on a piece of glass with 220 grit sand paper. when I installed it into the action I used locktite. Now the gun shoots one hole three shot groups with reloads, and 3/4" to 1" groups with canadian tire special (fed powershock 150gr.)

Mike
 
Odawg said:
My brother has a tikka varmint in a 25-06
It does not group well at all at a 100 yards it will group 1.5 in a 5 shot group
Click to expand...

First of all, a 1.5" group at 100 yards from a Tikka varmint is pretty lousy. With respect, is your brother able to do better with any other rifles? Once shooter error is eliminated then I would look at how the barrel is being cleaned. By clean does this mean a couple of patches soaked in Hoppes #9, or has the copper gilding ever been removed with a suitable chemical?

More information please..
 
T3TargetJames.jpg
This is how my son's shoots.........Harold
 
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