This thread is directed to those of you who have actual personal experience with the .303 Epps cartridge.
To begin, I have an old Parker Hale sporterized SMLE. As the pictures below show, it is based on an Australian Lithgow No. 1 action from 1944. This is an excellent action, as far as No. 1s go. In fact, in my experience, it is pushing the No. 4 in terms of strength. That is a significant fact for the purposes of this discussion.
It may or may not be relevant, but it has a nice shortened magazine box that sits nearly flush with the bottom of the action. Here are a few photos:
In my experience over the years, this has been a decent rifle. In fact, it has even proven capable of 1 m.o.a. groups on occasion. The problem is that the barrel is very rough and pitted. After cleaning, it takes me a good 4 shots or so to get it fouled in. Then, I get another 4 or 5 shots of good accuracy before it fouls up so much that it starts spraying shots. Clearly, a new barrel would improve things considerably.
I've recently been offered a line on a brand-new barrel that is chambered for the .303 Epps cartridge. The barrel is in the white and would be installed by a gunsmith with impeccable credentials. Suffice it to say that I'm very tempted by this offer but I have a few specific questions first to determine if this choice is right for me. I wasn't sure which forum to post this thread in, but since most of my questions relate to reloading matters, this is where I chose.
You can assume that I'm a very experienced handloader and shooter. Here are some of my questions:
Action Strength/Pressure/Velocity Potential
If I go this route, you can assume that I will end up purchasing Steve Redgewell's book. For now, what do you think about putting a .303 Epps barrel on a No. 1 action (albeit, a STRONG Australian No. 1 action)? Assuming that I can get loads that push hard on levels appropriate for a No. 4 action, what is my realistic potential here?
For your info, I'm not really chasing velocity here as much as I'm interested in accuracy and case life. If I can get loads that even come close to .308 levels, I would be very happy indeed. I'd probably load up the new 150-grain TSX and be done.
Any comments you might have on this issue would be appreciated.
Brass/Fireforming
If I go this route, I'll probably have to fireform my brass first, won't I? I suppose I could fireform with actual loads, but is there any benefit to doing this?
Is there an easy and cheap way to take the rifle to the range with 100 cases and just fireform the brass in a few minutes? I've never had to fireform before, so practical guidance on this matter would be also appreciated.
Full-Length Sizing Die?
I have an FL sizer and seater for the standard .303 British. I also have a Lee Collet Neck Sizer for the standard .303 British. In my experience with this action to date, I find that the neck sizer is excellent, but it has one limitation. After about 3 or 4 firings, I find that the action becomes really stiff to close, even when the cases are trimmed to proper length. I'm assuming that this means the brass has expanded so much that it is pressing hard against the chamber. When it gets to such a stage, a simple trip through the FL sizer gets it chambering easily again, but the cracks start to appear soon after.
I've heard rumours that the Epps cartridge does not stretch cases as much because of the straight walls. Is this true?
Can I get by with just my Collet Neck Sizer? How important or necessary would it be for me to get a proper .303 Epps FL die? If so, where can I get one and how much would it cost? (Obviously, this would have to be another cost I'd factor into the overall cost of the conversion.)
Feeding
You've seen the action and you've seen the mag box. Are there any issues I should be aware of regarding the way this cartridge feeds? Given that the .303 Epps case is not as sloped as the original .303 British, how well does it function through magazines designed around the original cartridge?
Powders
Do you have any powders that you especially like to use with this cartridge? I normally like to use IMR 4320 .303 British loads. I've also got Varget and IMR 4350 on hand. I figure that something like 4350 might not be a bad choice in the Epps because it takes a lot that slow burning powder to develop high pressures in such small cases. IMR 4350 is generally considered a bit on the slow side for the standard .303 for this reason, but it might be great in a blown out case like the Epps. What do you think?
Thanks in advance, and I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this.
To begin, I have an old Parker Hale sporterized SMLE. As the pictures below show, it is based on an Australian Lithgow No. 1 action from 1944. This is an excellent action, as far as No. 1s go. In fact, in my experience, it is pushing the No. 4 in terms of strength. That is a significant fact for the purposes of this discussion.
It may or may not be relevant, but it has a nice shortened magazine box that sits nearly flush with the bottom of the action. Here are a few photos:



In my experience over the years, this has been a decent rifle. In fact, it has even proven capable of 1 m.o.a. groups on occasion. The problem is that the barrel is very rough and pitted. After cleaning, it takes me a good 4 shots or so to get it fouled in. Then, I get another 4 or 5 shots of good accuracy before it fouls up so much that it starts spraying shots. Clearly, a new barrel would improve things considerably.
I've recently been offered a line on a brand-new barrel that is chambered for the .303 Epps cartridge. The barrel is in the white and would be installed by a gunsmith with impeccable credentials. Suffice it to say that I'm very tempted by this offer but I have a few specific questions first to determine if this choice is right for me. I wasn't sure which forum to post this thread in, but since most of my questions relate to reloading matters, this is where I chose.
You can assume that I'm a very experienced handloader and shooter. Here are some of my questions:
Action Strength/Pressure/Velocity Potential
If I go this route, you can assume that I will end up purchasing Steve Redgewell's book. For now, what do you think about putting a .303 Epps barrel on a No. 1 action (albeit, a STRONG Australian No. 1 action)? Assuming that I can get loads that push hard on levels appropriate for a No. 4 action, what is my realistic potential here?
For your info, I'm not really chasing velocity here as much as I'm interested in accuracy and case life. If I can get loads that even come close to .308 levels, I would be very happy indeed. I'd probably load up the new 150-grain TSX and be done.
Any comments you might have on this issue would be appreciated.
Brass/Fireforming
If I go this route, I'll probably have to fireform my brass first, won't I? I suppose I could fireform with actual loads, but is there any benefit to doing this?
Is there an easy and cheap way to take the rifle to the range with 100 cases and just fireform the brass in a few minutes? I've never had to fireform before, so practical guidance on this matter would be also appreciated.
Full-Length Sizing Die?
I have an FL sizer and seater for the standard .303 British. I also have a Lee Collet Neck Sizer for the standard .303 British. In my experience with this action to date, I find that the neck sizer is excellent, but it has one limitation. After about 3 or 4 firings, I find that the action becomes really stiff to close, even when the cases are trimmed to proper length. I'm assuming that this means the brass has expanded so much that it is pressing hard against the chamber. When it gets to such a stage, a simple trip through the FL sizer gets it chambering easily again, but the cracks start to appear soon after.
I've heard rumours that the Epps cartridge does not stretch cases as much because of the straight walls. Is this true?
Can I get by with just my Collet Neck Sizer? How important or necessary would it be for me to get a proper .303 Epps FL die? If so, where can I get one and how much would it cost? (Obviously, this would have to be another cost I'd factor into the overall cost of the conversion.)
Feeding
You've seen the action and you've seen the mag box. Are there any issues I should be aware of regarding the way this cartridge feeds? Given that the .303 Epps case is not as sloped as the original .303 British, how well does it function through magazines designed around the original cartridge?
Powders
Do you have any powders that you especially like to use with this cartridge? I normally like to use IMR 4320 .303 British loads. I've also got Varget and IMR 4350 on hand. I figure that something like 4350 might not be a bad choice in the Epps because it takes a lot that slow burning powder to develop high pressures in such small cases. IMR 4350 is generally considered a bit on the slow side for the standard .303 for this reason, but it might be great in a blown out case like the Epps. What do you think?
Thanks in advance, and I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this.