Questions about getting into reloading

GuiltySpark

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I've decided to get into reloading. I haven't the first idea about anything reloading-related. I'm planning on doing some research online but figured there are some vetted experts here so thought to ask about it.

I'm looking to get into reloading from scratch. Where do I start? Do they have kits or combos or do I need to buy all the parts individually?

Not sure if it matters but I'm looking at reloading;
5.56 FMJ
7.62x51 Match/BTHP
9mm FMJ or possibly HP
Maybe 12 GA slugs

Is it safe to reload in ones basement or is it safer to set up in a garage?
 
Any shotgun requires different set up. RCBS offers a good set up to start. My advice is to first by a good reloading book, I like Hornady, read it through. Remember what you get from the Internet is only worth what you pay for it. There's lots of good stuff but also lots of garbage,for a beginner its hard to know what's what.
 
What is your budget? There are a huge range of options but unless you want to get two presses, you will want a turret press or progressive to load both rifle and pistol rounds.
 
what's your budget?
are you mechanically inclined?
whats your shooting habits like?
are you after bulk plinking ammo and/or hunting ammo and/or precision ammo?

buy a reloading manual and read it a couple times.
 
I found the ABC's of reloading online and then read that. Then I bought a Lee 50th anniversary press kit. It had everything I needed except dies. I hated lubing cases so I bought some Lee collet dies and have stuck with them as I only have one gun of each Caliber. A cheap franklin arsenal scale was surprisingly consistent and sped up the process a lot.
 
what's your budget?
are you mechanically inclined?
whats your shooting habits like?
are you after bulk plinking ammo and/or hunting ammo and/or precision ammo?

buy a reloading manual and read it a couple times.

I'm thinking $500.
No.
Recreational shooter, not into hunting. I'll be reloading for about 9 to 10 guys who are also recreational shooters but some hunters as well.

I'm after bulk FMJ for the 5.56 and 9mm, match and hunting ammo for the .308
 
I've decided to get into reloading. I haven't the first idea about anything reloading-related. I'm planning on doing some research online but figured there are some vetted experts here so thought to ask about it.

I'm looking to get into reloading from scratch. Where do I start? Do they have kits or combos or do I need to buy all the parts individually?

Not sure if it matters but I'm looking at reloading;
5.56 FMJ
7.62x51 Match/BTHP
9mm FMJ or possibly HP
Maybe 12 GA slugs

Is it safe to reload in ones basement or is it safer to set up in a garage?

I've been reloading in my garage for the past several years. Mine is heated so I just put down some multi colored kid's floor mats to stand on.
You should start by reading the ABC's of reloading, followed by a few manuals. Ask a ton of questions. You'll probably need 2 reloading presses if you're going to do shotgun and centerfire. You can start an entire thread on which press to get, but IMO, if you're going to do volume (like for pistol), get a progressive press. Less work, faster production, and less risk of squibs/double charges if you lose your spot on a manually indexing one. Rifles are usually done on single stage presses due to, among other reasons, the lower volume of rounds produced. That being said, I load my rifle rounds just fine on my progressive Dillon 650 (223, 308, 7.62x39, 7.62x54R and now 45-70).
Maybe ask another member who reloads to go over to their house and watch him a few times? Ask a ton of questions (I know I already said that, but it bears repeating).
You'll need a press, dies, components. Depending on the press, you might need a hand primer if your press doesn't come with one. Polishing media, a tumbler, lubricant (for rifle brass....pistol doesn't need to be lubed), a kinetic force bullet puller for WHEN you screw up (count on it). A primer pocket swager for crimped primer pockets (usually from the 223 and 308 rounds picked up), case trimmer (for getting the length of brass that didn't come from your weapon back to the correct length)

I'm sure others will be along soon to add to this list, as I know I've forgotten a few things.
 
If your loading for rifles mostly I would start with a good qulity single stage and learn the inns and outs of loading and fixing problems then move up..if others use the equipment then they may chip in..
 
I've been reloading in my garage for the past several years. Mine is heated so I just put down some multi colored kid's floor mats to stand on.
You should start by reading the ABC's of reloading, followed by a few manuals. Ask a ton of questions. You'll probably need 2 reloading presses if you're going to do shotgun and centerfire. You can start an entire thread on which press to get, but IMO, if you're going to do volume (like for pistol), get a progressive press. Less work, faster production, and less risk of squibs/double charges if you lose your spot on a manually indexing one. Rifles are usually done on single stage presses due to, among other reasons, the lower volume of rounds produced. That being said, I load my rifle rounds just fine on my progressive Dillon 650 (223, 308, 7.62x39, 7.62x54R and now 45-70).
Maybe ask another member who reloads to go over to their house and watch him a few times? Ask a ton of questions (I know I already said that, but it bears repeating).
You'll need a press, dies, components. Depending on the press, you might need a hand primer if your press doesn't come with one. Polishing media, a tumbler, lubricant (for rifle brass....pistol doesn't need to be lubed), a kinetic force bullet puller for WHEN you screw up (count on it). A primer pocket swager for crimped primer pockets (usually from the 223 and 308 rounds picked up), case trimmer (for getting the length of brass that didn't come from your weapon back to the correct length)

I'm sure others will be along soon to add to this list, as I know I've forgotten a few things.
when you say primer pocket swagger for the cases you picked up,do you mean new or range brass? Do you need this tool if all your brass is new or only been fired out of your own rifle?
 
I'm thinking $500.
No.
Recreational shooter, not into hunting. I'll be reloading for about 9 to 10 guys who are also recreational shooters but some hunters as well.

I'm after bulk FMJ for the 5.56 and 9mm, match and hunting ammo for the .308

After reloading a few hundred rounds for yourself, you might reconsider reloading for others. Its pretty time consuming reloading for just yourself, not to mention liability concerns of reloading for others. Just something to consider.
 
I'll be reloading for about 9 to 10 guys who are also recreational shooters but some hunters as well


Be careful with this idea. A lot of handloaders I've talked to or read online refuse to let anyone else shoot their reloads, simply because of the risk of an accident. That risk is very, very low-- and if you take proper precautions at all times it's vanishingly small-- but people seem to be hesitant to let anyone else take that risk. IMO, beginner reloaders shouldn't be reloading for anyone but themselves.

I consider myself a beginner still, and it's possible that I'm overly safety conscious, but do yourself a favour and (1) ask around this forum and some other reloading forums online about how experienced reloaders treat this issue and (2) make sure you're confident, with a fair amount of experience under your belt, before you let others shoot your reloads. This is true for rifle, but extra super double special true for pistol, since there's much more of a chance of a double-charge or squib load on pistol reloads.

Also, if these guys are paying you, it's a bit of a legal grey area.

I'm not saying you should never, ever do this; just that you should think about it carefully and be damned sure that your tools and processes minimize the risk to anyone else. And the way to be sure is to have the experience to judge that correctly.
 
i would go with a lee turret press (for the price difference i would opt for the classic cast version as it's built like a tank). it gives you single stage control but also allows for faster reloading. price is good, you just need to buy your other items separately (which i would opt for anyway).

as far as loading for other people it is illegal to sell reloads unless you go through the legal paper work route. once you get the basics down and have a few years of experience (unless your a quick learner) i wouldn't even consider loading for other people. as far as time is concerned if 9-10 people wanted me to reload for them it would be 20-40 rounds tops with no load development.
 
Well, single stage presses have less things to go wrong with them, but you'll spend more time switching out dies and such. That's why it's best to work in batches, such as inspect, resize, trim, and prime all 100 brass, and then swap the dies to pour in the powder or flare the neck, or seat the bullet or whatever.

The Lee Anniversary kit is the cheapest way to get functional in the shortest amount of time. Usually around $150 I think. I do recommend a digital scale though, beam scales tend to take a while longer to settle down, and you can make mistakes if not hunching over to make sure the indicator is in the right spot.

However, unless you plan to make reloading a dedicated part of your regular schedule, a progressive press will drastically speed things up. It does make it somewhat easier to skip steps and seat bullet on cases with no powder, or dump double powder charges in the same case. Especially for other people, unless you're only doing a few hundred cases a year, in which case functionally anything will work.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Get good at it first, and then focus on getting fast.

Also, as mentioned selling reloads requires a license, which requires sending a sample from each batch to NRCan for approval.
 
Loading for yourself and not in a hurry, a single stage without a doubt. Loading lots and time is an issue, a turret press is the way to go. Nowadays everyone's dies pretty much fit everyone else's presses, so if you can get a good deal, go for it, mixing and matching is ok as long as you watch what you are doing. Some people will only swear by certain presses or dies, but they all make good equipment. I load for 12 different rifle calibers and 4 handgun and I use a Lee single stage press, as my reloading time is my quality time and am in no rush, and I have never had an issue with the equipment or the finished product. So, how $$$ you want to invest and how much you want to produce will make your choices clearer, good luck !
 
when you say primer pocket swagger for the cases you picked up,do you mean new or range brass? Do you need this tool if all your brass is new or only been fired out of your own rifle?

The swager removes the crimp put where the primer is seated. You usually find this on military brass due to the long time it might spend in storage (so it's more resistant to moisture seeping in). It appears like a little red ring around the circumference of the primer pocket from the outside. Norc ammo mil surp is where I usually see it around here.

I think you're confusing case trimming with swaging. Case trimming is to bring the case back to spec lengths after it's been fired. Good info on it here: http://www.chuckhawks.com/preparing_competition_brass.htm
 
I've decided to get into reloading. I haven't the first idea about anything reloading-related. I'm planning on doing some research online but figured there are some vetted experts here so thought to ask about it.

I'm looking to get into reloading from scratch. Where do I start? Do they have kits or combos or do I need to buy all the parts individually?

Not sure if it matters but I'm looking at reloading;
5.56 FMJ
7.62x51 Match/BTHP
9mm FMJ or possibly HP
Maybe 12 GA slugs

Is it safe to reload in ones basement or is it safer to set up in a garage?

1) buy more than 1 manual and read them more than once.
2) Your basement is fine, keep away from flames (fireplace/wood stoves and/or pilot lights) and follow the safety rules laid out in the manuals you will read.

I'm thinking $500.
No.
Recreational shooter, not into hunting. I'll be reloading for about 9 to 10 guys who are also recreational shooters but some hunters as well.

I'm after bulk FMJ for the 5.56 and 9mm, match and hunting ammo for the .308

Whoa, full stop, brake, halt...
If you ever have to ask a question, never reload for anybody! Nothing good can come from this, remember, no good deed goes unpunished.

Also, given your caliber selections having $500.00 to cover all 4 will be challenging.



Also, if these guys are paying you, it's a bit of a legal grey area.


No grey area; it's illegal without a licence, period.
 
After reloading a few hundred rounds for yourself, you might reconsider reloading for others. Its pretty time consuming reloading for just yourself, not to mention liability concerns of reloading for others. Just something to consider.

+1. I only reload for two close shooting buddies and only for 9mm and that's still a fair bit of work. Not to mention, I did it all on a single stage press for a while until I picked up a progressive this summer. I can't imagine reloading for 9-10 people and I shudder to think of even attempting that on a single stage press. You might want to limit it to one or two very close friends and after they agree and understand that there's a risk of a kaboom. You might want to get some reloading time under your belt too before offering to help your buddies out.

That said, if you're shooting 223 for just plinking, it's going to cost you pretty close (if not more?) to shooting surplus ammo and that's not even considering the work required for bottle neck ammo. When you do start reloading and you sit down to size and trim 300+ pcs of 223 brass, you'll understand where I'm coming from and have a better idea if it's worth it. When cheap surplus ammo runs out, I'll go back to reloading 223 for plinking. If you're shooting for accuracy, heck, even cheap 55gr FMJ reloads shoot pretty darn good.

Gonna need a bigger budget if you plan to reload that many calibers, including shot shells which requires a totally different press/setup.

Selling reloaded ammo without a license is a big NO NO.
 
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No grey area; it's illegal without a licence, period.

Weeeeeell I said 'grey area' on the assumption that these guys might just be reimbursing OP for components and he would be loading for 'free'. If OP is straight up selling the reloads then there's nothing grey about it.

But if 9 or 10 guys pool their money together to buy a bunch of components, and then OP just happens to be the guy who assembles those components into finished cartridges, I have a doubt that it could be considered manufacturing for sale.

In any case, it's a horrible idea for a new guy to be dong it, regardless of the legality. :)
 
IMO, OP is biting off more than he should be chewing on here .... as a rank beginner and just starting out to reload.
Forget your 9-10 buddies wants/requests I say, until you've gotten yourself some solid bench time under your belt.
Reloading is not rocket science, any reasonably intelligent person can learn to do it, and with practice do it well .. given an informed initiation and some press handle time.
Going whole hog into bulk pistol and precision rifle for everybody and their brother with five hundred bucks or so to spend ?...
Well, I wish you luck with that plan.

But GuiltySpark, you came here asking honest questions, and you will get honest answers to any question you may have ... so keep on asking.

Do start handloading, the ammo you build for yourself will end up being ... by far ... the best you've ever shot.
 
As someone who just started shooting and reloading last year I can definitely relate. Man did I have questions when I started!

The essentials.
A press. I shoot IPSC and go through a lot of bullets. The only sane way to load a lot of bullets is with a 4-5 stage progressive press. In a nutshell, for each pull of the handle a progressive will do several actions like de-prime, size, drop powder, seat and crimp. Basically every pull you get a finished bullet. A single stage does one action at a time so each bullet takes several pulls. You definitely want a progressive. Dillon and Hornady are the big names. I own a Dillon 650 and I like it very much. I also purchased a case feeder which is a great option.

A scale. A scale is essential in order to weigh your powder charge. For reloading we use grains as the unit of measure. You can get digital scales for pretty cheap but I suggest paying a bit for a more accurate one.

A caliper. You need to be able to measure the Overall Bullet Length (OAL). A digital caliper can be had for not too much money.

A chronograph. A chronograph will measure your bullet velocity. This is essential for proper reloading. I shoot 9mm and mostly use 125 grain projectiles so I adjust my recipe for about 1050 ft/s (for IPSC this is ~130PF).

A case (brass) cleaner. There are different types of cleaners, I think most people use tumblers where you fill it with cleaning media (corn cob for example) and then drop you cases in and let then vibrate clean for a few hours. I had one of these but was not happy with the results (I am kind on anal and like my cases clean and shiny inside and out). I now use a wet rotary tumbler that uses tiny stainless steel pins. It cleans awesome. It is more costly to buy than the vibrating tumbler but for me it is worth it.


Reloading basically comes down to achieving the perfect recipe of projectile (bullet), powder weight and OAL to get your desired velocity. All 3 are variables and affect velocity. If your recipe is too hot, you exceed your desired velocity and it could even be dangerous and can cause injury. If you load too light you may get squibs which can also be dangerous to you or damage your gun or your gun won't cycle properly and will fail to eject. You have got to do your homework, RELOADING CAN CAUSE INJURY.

You start by referring to the powder manufacturers reloading data. They provide a minimum and maximum load range and an OAL. You will never find the exact bullet type and weight so just use the minimum weight in grains. You then setup the press for this recipe (which may take about an hour) and load about 10 rounds. Next off you go to the range setup your chronograph and shoot a few rounds and record the velocity. You will then know if you need to be hotter (more powder) or lighter (less powder). Go back home and rinse and repeat with a tweak to your recipe.


Like I mentioned earlier there are 3 main recipe variables which may or may not be clear to you.
• Powder is simple, drop more in the case and you get a bigger bang. Also very important is the particular powder burn rate. Some are slow, others fast. There are hundreds of powders out there. You generally need less weight of fast burning powder than you do of slow burning powder. Some powders are cleaner burning and less smoky. The art is to get a powder that will give you your perfect velocity with the least recoil possible and that burns clean. Unfortunately powders are quite scarce right now so you will probably end up with whatever you can get your hands on (as are projectiles and even brass).
• Overall length (OAL) affects the velocity because the deeper you seat the projectile the more pressure that will be generated and the bigger the bang. The relation is also not linear (for both OAL and powder weight) so always go slow in small increments of change.
• Projectile (bullet) affects velocity due to its profile and weight. It may be more or less aerodynamic. It may also be slipperier so to speak (eg. I load teflon coated projectiles that take about .2-3 grains less than regular bullets of similar profiles.

Finally, you need to be careful. Do your homework. Refer to the reloading data and start with the minimum load. Also ask fellow reloaders. Chances are that we may already be loading the same components you plan to and can give you the perfect recipe to start with.

Here are a few links that will help.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/
http://www.handloads.com/
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=31914.0

Good luck.
 
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