Questions about muzzle loaders...

stefK

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Hello all,
I'm contemplating about getting a muzzle loader, but I have a few questions;

- Is it all that difficult to learn? I have NEVER shot a muzzle loader

- I may have a possible trade pending on a T/C Omega laminated stainless. Is this rifle user friendly or am I barking up the wrong tree?

- What does a guy all need to break into this alternative avenue of shooting/ hunting? I'm typically a rimfire and centerfire guy.

I just need some basic pointers and advice before I jump into this feet first. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Gents!
 
I am completely hooked on black powder now! So much so I went out and got myself a muzzleloading shotgun. Be safe, do your homework, and have fun!
 
For an inline modern gun you need a few things. Ramrod. Ball starter (short lilramrod for starting it doen the barrel) patches. Bore brushes. If your ok with boiling water if not many cleaning agents for black powder. I use tc17 spray and cva wonder gel. The foam works awesome to. There's a large array of bullets to. There's traditional round balls that you must patch. There's sabots that have a plastic wad. Conicals of pure lead or full size bullets such as power belts and hornady flex tips. Powders are choices of various granular or modern pellets. I use pellets because they are easier and faster in the field. Muzzleloading is fun and safe if done right. Always seat the bullet firmly on the powder charge. I mark my ramrod so I know each when its at the right spot to seat everything. This only works if you stick to one load. I use 100gr 777 (2 pellets) sometimes 3 in other rifles. And I use platinum power belt 338gr areotips for bullets. Never lost a deer yet. I have 4 types of muzzleloaders and I'm going to add a shotgun to the list soon
 
Buy a copy of Lyman's BP Handbook and Loading Manual. Has lots of good info. Starting with BP being loaded in grains but by volume, not weight.
 
I started out with one muzzleloader. That's all I was going to need. I've lost count how many I have now.
Are you the type of shooter that wants to grab a gun and ammo go to the range and shoot, come home and through it all back in the gun cabinet and go do something else? My advice is don't bother with muzzleloaders. Even the inlines need cleaning and load development. If you are the kind of guy who likes to tinker with his guns then I say get into muzzleloaders and be prepared to tinker and spend time with your gun. And be prepared to by more.
 
Well said.
For an inline modern gun you need a few things. Ramrod. Ball starter (short lilramrod for starting it doen the barrel) patches. Bore brushes. If your ok with boiling water if not many cleaning agents for black powder. I use tc17 spray and cva wonder gel. The foam works awesome to. There's a large array of bullets to. There's traditional round balls that you must patch. There's sabots that have a plastic wad. Conicals of pure lead or full size bullets such as power belts and hornady flex tips. Powders are choices of various granular or modern pellets. I use pellets because they are easier and faster in the field. Muzzleloading is fun and safe if done right. Always seat the bullet firmly on the powder charge. I mark my ramrod so I know each when its at the right spot to seat everything. This only works if you stick to one load. I use 100gr 777 (2 pellets) sometimes 3 in other rifles. And I use platinum power belt 338gr areotips for bullets. Never lost a deer yet. I have 4 types of muzzleloaders and I'm going to add a shotgun to the list soon
 
Black Powder 101,LOL

Well sir, you want to know about black powder shooting, well, i can tell you for one, its fun, for 2 its challenging, but nothing like the "big bang" and the smoke.
i shoot traditional hawkens rifle in 50 caliber , a kit gun from thompson center , as well i have 2 sxs shotguns well over 150yrs old, which i shoot regularly

For getting into it, my opinion would be a straight forward gun, nothing complicated or technical, the inlines to me are "cool looking" but just dont cut it on the range or at a shoot, most shoots only allow orig or replica original designed guns to participate, percussion cap guns are much easier to run than flintlocks, id go percussion for a beginner shooter

for the money id look on here for a good used thompson center hawkens or similar rifle, 50 caliber is the most common, which mine is, 45 cal guns are minimum for deer hunting, also, id look for a gun with a 1 in 48 twist rate barrel, this allows you to shoot lead bullets, also patch balls and saboted bullets
its the crossover twist rate for a multi use muzzleloader

as far as shooting it you will need the folowing

1- black powder or equivelant
2-shooting patches
3-short ball starter
4-cleaning jags and brushed for caliber of rifle
5-the will to have patience,LOL
6-percussion caps, or flint which ever your rifle has
7-powder measure and flask
8-patch and ball puller, nipple wrench and a nipple pic
loading these guns takes a min, but once you get it done a few times,its all comes naturally
9-projectiles of choice

so here is step by step,

1- check bore for a load left in it, by using ram rod that you have, measure length of barrel versus length of rod, if rod falls near out of site, its a good indication its empty
2-once that has been assertained, take your ramrod and an appropriate sized cleaning patch and wipe bore free of any storage oil or dirt from storing gun
3-once bore is rendered free of a load, and free of dirt and oil, proceed to take powder measure and set it to desired charge, NEVER POUR DIRECTLY FROM POWDER CAN TO GUN, BIG NO NO, STATIC CHARGE BETWEEN POWDER AND STEEL ON GUN COULD RESULT IN A FULL LB OF POWDER IGNITING
so what you should have is a measure, and pour from canister of powder to measure, do not flick or level off powder measure, as black powder is measure by volume not weight!!!!
4-once powder charge is in measure, proceed to pour into muzzle of rifle,
after that i will lightly tap with hand the side of barrel , allows powder to settle to bottom
5-choose appropriate projectile, either patched lead ball, or a bullet of sorts
place projectile in muzzle of rifle,using your short starter, tap projectile until it starts into bore just beneath muzzle, then use ramrod provided with rifle to firmly seat it on top of powder, you must be sure you have it firmly seated on powder
6-once projectile is in barrel and seated on powder charge, we can now proceed to cap or prime the gun, place hammer on half ####, and put percussion cap on nipple.
7-well we are now ready to go to the shooting bench or firing line, basically now pull hammer to full ####, take a good aim, and BANG.
after shooting is done, for next shot, take a patch on ramrod, swab bore with a semi wet patch to put out embers in bottom of bore also clears rifling to make reloading easier as there will be stuff building up in barrel after period of time
8-Now after we get home, we must clean our gun, black powder is corrosive and erosssive if left in gun, can ruin the barrel with rust!!!
so now we have to remove barrel from stock, go to the kicthen get a container of hot soapy water, dish soap works fine, use a claeaning jag for caliber you have, with cotton patching, swab bore up and down several time, water will get black quick, after probably 12-15 reps of swabbing, take barrel and dry patch it until patches come out clean, the heat from hot water should dry out inner barrel, also wipe down any area on metal where fouling from powder is seen, after we are all clean, we must oil mr muzzleloader inside and out, and check him periododically especially in humid weather, to prevent the rusties

I hope this has shed some light on the matter, believe me its not as hard as it looks, once you do it, or even watch guys shooting black powder, it all comes together

message me if you have any questions, also lots of info online on different guns and projectiles to use, also depending on your gun, general rule of thumb is using 2f black powder for 45-50 cal guns which are most common, some of the smaller bore guns need smaller ground powder called 3 f, the very large guns like shotguns or muskets sometimes use corse grade powder called f grade

when purchasing a muzzle loader whether on here from a member or from a dealer, ask what they reccommend for shooting it, and stick with it!!!!

happy shooting my friend hope you find a gun you like and start shooting!!
 
I'm sure there are online muzzle loading videos on Youtube or at the manufacturers' web sites. Why not watch a few and see if its for you.

It's actually quite easy with the modern inlines, sabot bullets and powder pellets. I use a scope on mine but its not necessary.
 
Hello all,
I'm contemplating about getting a muzzle loader, but I have a few questions;

- Is it all that difficult to learn? I have NEVER shot a muzzle loader

- I may have a possible trade pending on a T/C Omega laminated stainless. Is this rifle user friendly or am I barking up the wrong tree?

- What does a guy all need to break into this alternative avenue of shooting/ hunting? I'm typically a rimfire and centerfire guy.

I just need some basic pointers and advice before I jump into this feet first. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Gents!

Trust it is not hard and very very enjoyable. Number 1 make sure that owner provides the manual. Read it cover to cover. Muzzleloaders are alot of fun and really fun to shoot. I would take that omega in a heart beat. Nice gun.
 
Good to hear there is interest in BP Muzzleloaders. Myself, I prefer the tradionally historic style. I have a .54 cal flintlock, built in '78 for me. Round ball only (1 in 60 twist) , accurate out to 2oo yards with the right ball, patch and load combination, of course. And that is the true fun of it. Finding the right loads for various distances and conditions and achieving those nice tight 5 shots groups. There is still a big following in the USA with annual National competitions hosting close to a 1000 shooters from all over, but, in Canada it has dropped off alot in the last 25 yrs and is barely visible.
Try some of these sites on the web.
nmlra.org, bpcr.net,Trackofthewolf.com, buffaloarms.com, Logcabinshop.com, Wolfe publishing in USA. All are excellent sources for information and tons of literature to help you decide what's best for you. If BP is tweaking your interest there is BP Cartridge also. Bit more costly to get into since there is reloading to do in most all calibers. Might suggest to you to visit the Gun Room in Waterloo, On. if you are within driving distance. They also have a web page (shooterschoice.com), they are probably the best equipped in the blackpowder stuff locally Ask for Mike.
Whatever your choice enjoy it. This smokless thing is a passing fad.
 
In-lines are easier to clean and more reliable than traditional front-stuffers, but they don't even come close in terms of historical "feel" and "romance" for lack of a better term. Also, the traditional ML's are more versatile. For instance, I have a couple 45 cal. Kentucky rifles that I used regularly for small game with a 133gr. round ball and 25 gr. of fffG. Took the head off grouse almost every time out to 30 yds. Switching to a Maxi ball, at 250 gr., with 70 gr. of ffG, I could consistently hit a 6" circle at 100 yds. 250gr. of pure, soft lead will take down anything east of the Rockies. In-lines are a little more limited, as they are rifled for conicals only (which do get expen$ive) and most people use pellets in them, so you have less leeway in powder charges. On the other hand, with an in-line, you're almost guaranteed to hear a "bang" when you pull the trigger. With a caplock, although it is rare, you will get the odd misfire, and according to a chap named Murphy, it'll happen at the worst possible time. Also, in-lines are muuucccchh easier to clean. Soooooo, my advice? Get both traditional and in-line, and have fun.
 
The only "serious" failure to fire I have seen while hunting was in a modern inline. It would not fire even when I gave the fellow some of my priming powder from my flinter. Now I can pull a round ball from my rifle in minutes (after making dam sure its not a hang fire) but pulling the saboted copper jacket bullet from my buddies in line took a lot longer, he had to dismantle half his gun if I remember correctly and push it out with his ram rod. Even if I forget to charge it I have always got the ball out by putting 3 or 4 grains of powder under the nipple or working it in to the touch hole.
I guess it really doesn't matter what you start with sooner or latter as you gain maturity you can always graduate to a traditional model : )
 
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