I started reloading .308 today. I am stuck at a certain point though. I bought the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit and the Lee pacesetter .308 3-die set with factory crimp. I also have case preperastion equipment, but the case preperation went well. I resized the cases and started to prime them. These steps also went well. I am supposed to flare the cases next, but it doesn't look like I can with the die set I have. So what do I need to do next? How do I flare them? Is it necessary to flare cases? By the way I am using Hornady 150 grain FMJBT and IMR 4895.
Questions about reloading .308
- Thread starter Rifleman1984
- Start date
ultimate_monkey
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- victoria BC
no, you dont need to flair bottle neck (rifle) brass , you also dont need to crimp them. a light crimp on a hunting round is a good idea, but for most target applications its nothing to worry about
Flaring is usually reserved for seating cast bullets. Your fmj boat tails will seat just fine without flaring. I don't know if I completely agree about not crimping. If you are going to be shooting in a semi auto you probably should crimp them. Be careful when crimping, however. You don't want to over do it as you can collapse the shoulder and then your rounds won't chamber. You may not even notice that the shoulders are slightly bulged if you over crimped until you try and chamber them. That's just depressing.
If I am loading for a bolt action or single shot i don't crimp. It can affect accuracy if you're loading for groups, load testing etc. On the other hand you could push the bullet further into the case if you don't crimp when using your reloads in a SA.
To be honest I have done it without crimping and used them in my SA's but it would be new brass with strong neck tension. After a while it's a judgment call that comes with experience.
Let us know how you go from here and how your reloads worked in your rifle.
If I am loading for a bolt action or single shot i don't crimp. It can affect accuracy if you're loading for groups, load testing etc. On the other hand you could push the bullet further into the case if you don't crimp when using your reloads in a SA.
To be honest I have done it without crimping and used them in my SA's but it would be new brass with strong neck tension. After a while it's a judgment call that comes with experience.
Let us know how you go from here and how your reloads worked in your rifle.
"...supposed to flare the cases next..." That's for straight walled rifle cases(.45-70, etc) and most handgun cases. Bottle necked rifle cases get chamfered on the inside of the case mouth. It doesn't need much of a chamfer either. Just enough to taper the inside of the case mouth a wee bit. There's a small, inexpensive, hand tool for chamfering and deburring. Lee's runs $2.98US. Not much more than that here.
If you're using new unfired brass, you should check the lengths and trim as required first. The must be chamfered and deburred after trimming.
Did you read your manual?
If you're using new unfired brass, you should check the lengths and trim as required first. The must be chamfered and deburred after trimming.
Did you read your manual?
"...chamfering tool on the Lee Ziptrim..." You're all set to seat bullets. You full length resize?
"...How much pressure should I apply?..." As mentioned, you really don't need a crimp. Been loading for a real, semi'd, M14(and .30-06 for an M1 Rifle) for eons with no crimp. No fuss. No bother. However, if you opt to, put in just enough to hold the bullet in place. You should be able to see it as a wee 'polished' bit on the case mouth. It's a trial and error thing. Not a measuring thing.
"...How much pressure should I apply?..." As mentioned, you really don't need a crimp. Been loading for a real, semi'd, M14(and .30-06 for an M1 Rifle) for eons with no crimp. No fuss. No bother. However, if you opt to, put in just enough to hold the bullet in place. You should be able to see it as a wee 'polished' bit on the case mouth. It's a trial and error thing. Not a measuring thing.
i've reloaded thousands of rounds of 308 for my norc.. i've lost track of how many i've reloaded, but i've been shooting reloads out of it for about 10 years and never crimped..
i've never had any issues with feeding or bullets moving forward during the "violent" chambering process..
i've done test loads once in a while where i've crimped and i never noticed a difference in accuracy..
a bit of advice..
stick with hard primers like CCI and make sure they're seated properly to avoid a slamfire.
i've never had any issues with feeding or bullets moving forward during the "violent" chambering process..
i've done test loads once in a while where i've crimped and i never noticed a difference in accuracy..
a bit of advice..
stick with hard primers like CCI and make sure they're seated properly to avoid a slamfire.
OP, if you want to crimp, you have a factory crimp Die with the set. Forget the rolled crimp from your seating die. Besides, with that you also have to have the cannelure set just right so that the roll crimp has some place to go.
This is eliminated with the factory crimp you already bought from Lee. Doesn't need a cannelure, doesn't need precise seating of a bullet to that cannelure which allows you to properly adjust your OAL of the cartridge, and it will crimp each round with the same tension.
I crimp all of my rounds, but that's just me. Some here crimp none of them.
This is eliminated with the factory crimp you already bought from Lee. Doesn't need a cannelure, doesn't need precise seating of a bullet to that cannelure which allows you to properly adjust your OAL of the cartridge, and it will crimp each round with the same tension.
I crimp all of my rounds, but that's just me. Some here crimp none of them.
What manual did you read? Just the one that caem with the set? Those are just basic instructions. You had better invest in a "real" reloading manual. #### Lee's Modern Reloading and Dean Grennel's ABC's of Reloading are two of my most used references.
- Location
- Sudbury, On
Mild crimp. Did you have trouble with the case 'shaving' the metal jackets of your bullets?
Rifleman.....where did you get your 50th anniv set. It would should include the Lee second volume book, It's like 2 1/5 inches thick and addresses all the issues , especially with the Lee dies you have. The factory crimp works awesome, and you can adjust the collet tension by raising or lowering the die vs the cam over in your press. Consistent neck tension can affect accuracy / or better stated, consistency! There are also instructions with the pacesetter dies you bought. Install your bullet seating die so that you get no crimp and later use your collet factory crimp die IF you choose.
If you didn't get the Lee book you should question who you purchased the kit from. Also, this press is OK, but it does flex a wee bit and you will have to adjust your decapping/ resizing die accordingly to do what you need....being neck sizing only vs full length or just pushing the shoulder back a touch. Good luck!!
If you didn't get the Lee book you should question who you purchased the kit from. Also, this press is OK, but it does flex a wee bit and you will have to adjust your decapping/ resizing die accordingly to do what you need....being neck sizing only vs full length or just pushing the shoulder back a touch. Good luck!!
