Questions about SWEDISH AG42B Semi??

I used to have a better one...can't seem to find it now...more Ljungman trivia and, less mauser info...all is good! It'd be some handy if they did it with Volvo's too...LOL
Honestly, are there any other mil-surps with this kind of info (surely dated by now...) pressed into a brass ring, for all to see?

I think I'd like a job shooting and, rating the irons...which aresenal wants my resume?
 
Earliler GREAT idea

teenahlake said:
I have 2, one that was bubba'd the OEM was minute of rabbit head at 100 m. The Bubba, I am looking for a Hakin gas valve to mod for it.
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There's a couple of great posts earlier in this thread about "modding" current gas block to become "adjustable"...seems like a clean and, cost effective soloution
 
teenahlake said:
I have 2, one that was bubba'd the OEM was minute of rabbit head at 100 m. The Bubba, I am looking for a Hakin gas valve to mod for it.
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See my post #33..... Hakim gas valve is hard to come by and costs a few $. My way costs you 30 minutes of your time , and a single 35 cent set screw . OR you can buy the box of set screws for 12 or 15 $ and have a bunch for whenever you need them (box has diff sizes) get box from princess auto.
 
greywolf said:
Good grief , have none of you figured out yet to remove the screw from the front of the gas rod and replace it with a set screw ? then you can adjust the gas and have the brass drop at your feet, un damaged and reloadable.
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does this actually work ... reliably ... without causing other issues ?

to work around it ejecting hard and marking up the brass , i went to a faster burning powder .
but it is a pain in the a$$ when you have a bolt gun and a semi auto of the same caliber , but each prefering their own ammo .
 
burnt_servo said:
does this actually work ... reliably ... without causing other issues ?

to work around it ejecting hard and marking up the brass , i went to a faster burning powder .
but it is a pain in the a$$ when you have a bolt gun and a semi auto of the same caliber , but each prefering their own ammo .
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Hasn't messed up for me as yet. That's what the Egyptians did with their Hakim's all they did was add a gas adjustment to it so it doesn't trash the brass and toss it off into the next galaxy . It works quite nicely , to the point that I will do it to my second one myself :) I have both the bolt and semi as well , no more "special rounds for either , and I save on a ton of brass to reload:)
 
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greywolf said:
Hasn't messed up for me as yet. That's what the Egyptians did with their rasheed's (?) all they did was add a gas adjustment to it so it doesn't trash the brass and toss it off into the next galaxy . It works quite nicely , to the point that I will do it to my second one myself :) I have both the bolt and semi as well , no more "special rounds for either , and I save on a ton of brass to reload:)
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i know what i'm doing next weekend :D

thank you
 
burnt_servo said:
i know what i'm doing next weekend :D

thank you
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I might add the screw presently in the rifle is a pain to get out. I am going to end up drilling mine out and re-tapping it and putting in the set screw. They "peened" the screws in with a punch to make it difficult to remove/come loose. Make sure you do it right and you won't have any problems , take your time don't rush.
 
As to powder, do remember that the military ALWAYS uses the fastest powder they can get away with: less weight to carry, less tonnage to buy.

Swedish method of controlling the uncontrollable Ljungmann was to replace the little stanless-steel washer at the rear end of the gas tube, where is exhausts into the bolt carrier. As you may not have a Swedish armourer's kit handy, the washer can be removed and welded up, the redrilled to a smaller size. You can then open it up, a thou or so at a time, until you have perfect functioning. Remember that these rifles were designed and fitted for Arctic-conditions usage. That's WHY they wing the brass so hard: they WILL function in 35 or 40 below. At migher temps, you don't need that much gas. Hakim gas adjustment CAN be fitted, the gas washer CAN be welded and redrilled, but the cheapest way it ro instal a set-screw, as pointed out many posts ago.

Stock disc gives you bore and groove measurements from the rifle's last inspection: bore diameter in millimetres plus wear over minimum, groove measurements as well.

SS stamped on a rifle's action does not mean the dear old Schutzstaffel. It means Sten Stenmo, the factory inspector, or so I am told (by the Swedes). If the Waffen-SS had any of these, they MIGHT have been stamped with the lightning-bolts. I am told they had a dozen or so, tried them out on the Ostfront. I REALLY want one!

You should be able to adjust any gas-operated rifle so that the brass just drops onto yur bench when you shoot. This is INVARIABLY the way to get the best accuracy...... and these things are scary accurate to start with..... likely the most accurate semi-auto battle rifle ever built.

Berdan brass (common out East from the seal-hunt) CAN be reworked to Boxer primers with a couple of little tools and a bit of sweat.

There WAS a special 10-round charger (stripper-clip, for those who don't understand the right word) for these rifles. MUCH faster than changing mags. There is also a dedicated BFA and sometimes you can find a set of self-luminescent night-sights, too!

But, DAMN, are they accurate!

Loud, too!

And fun!
 
A friend of mine heavily modified his AG-42B. The stock in the photographs is the original, refinished and altered to his liking. The scope mount is also his work. Accuracy is exceptional.

Peter_Rifle_1.jpg


Peter_Rifle_2.jpg


Peter_Rifle_3.jpg
 
I really hate to berate a very well built and proven design, like the AG42B rifles that came in to Canada 30 years ago. Some of them were brand new and included full kits of parts, slings, matching bayonets and a couple of spare mags in pretty leather pouches along with cleaning kits.

As mentioned above, they shoot very well, they shoot a decent cartridge and are reliable, as long as they are properly taken care of.

Now the bad. They are way to long and heavy, same as most WWII semi autos, including the Kar43, SVT 38 and 40. They were cutting edge in their day but the writing was on the wall very soon after their debut. The Russians, Germans and Swedes knew this when they built them, so did other countries like Belgium. Belgium smuggled the plans for the FN49 into England before the Germans could get their hands on them. The Russians were already designing the SKS in 7.62x39 and the Germans were already issuing the stg series assault rifles.

The AG42B is fun to shoot from a bench and has very little recoil. It chews up brass and flings it 7-8 meters away.

Every piece is well made and interchangeable with other rifles. It is interesting as a curiosity but that's about it.

If you come accross any surplus ammunition for it, International brought in millions of surplus rounds, it will be corrosive primed and will either have 156gr round nose cupro nickle clad bullets or even wooden bullets. There was some 140gr sbt fmj stuff brought in later. I don't know if it was corrosive or not.

If you're small of stature or not overly strong, the rifle is a bench queen and it will do a stellar job as such.
 
I may muster up the courage to get one of these intricate rifles in the future. I always liked the wood-stocked/protruding 10-round magazine.
 
The 156-grain RN bullet was never supposed to be used in the AG42B. The rifles were factory set for the 139-grain pointed bullet. FAST powders were used.
The wooden-bullet stuff that I have seen is Danish and was blank-fire ammo (training) only. You can NOT use the powder for anything else: it's 'WAY too fast.

The black rifle above is not exactly 'collector grade' but it's sure pretty!!!!!!!!
I don't think I would want to shoot against it even WITH my Ross!
 
on my rifles , looking down when you open the action there are 3 threaded holes on the left doing nothing .

i was thinking about mounting a rail to these and mounting the scope to the rail .......

the problem is i'd have to remove some of the wood . which means building a new stock . ( what i have isn't damaged enough to even consider cutting it up ) .

the other way i've been thinking it could be done , is making a set of rings that would attach around the barrel , and attaching the scope base to that .

that would mean either just building new top wood , or modifying what is there , and maybe a bit of fitting to the lower stock .

like the pic above i've seen more than a few guys put holes straight through the stock into the action to suport the scope , it leaves me to wonder how sturdy this might be ?
unless there is some sort of metal spacer to keep the wood from compressing and having the mount shift ?
 
burnt_servo said:
like the pic above i've seen more than a few guys put holes straight through the stock into the action to suport the scope , it leaves me to wonder how sturdy this might be ?
unless there is some sort of metal spacer to keep the wood from compressing and having the mount shift ?
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My friend did make and install metal spacers so there is only metal to metal connection, and as far as I know was very careful to make attachments only where mechanical strength was certain. I'll be visiting him today so will get some more information if anybody would find it useful.

I do know he intends to make a few small tweaks that will require tearing the rifle down and I have already convinced him to let me photograph the details.
 
I know this thread is long forgotten but I thought I might as well keep all the information in one spot.
I recently acquired one of these beauties, although its been neglected in a closet for the last decade or more and has the grim collection.
I've been reading all over the place with munitions that stick and need lubrication, etc.
What are your take on Remington core-lokt 6.5x55 and winchester super-x 6.5x55? Those are the local catriges available.
Thanks
 
Lots of good information here! I had one of these rifles. The rear sight had pictures of both round nose and pointed bullets and could be adjusted from one to the other. Either way it shot at least a foot high @ 100Yds. Another thing to remember, if you pull back the action and lock it open WITHOUT using the safety, if you try to remove the mazazine the actionWILL slam shut. USE THE SAFETY. When I got mine it had a headless cartridge stuck in the chamber. Had to take it to a gunsmith to remove. The sighting problem together with the brass ejected in a fan shaped space about 20 feet from the rifle and concern that I would get another cartridge beheaded were enough for me to put it on EE. Had an SKS too. It functioned flawlessly, but was not an accurate grouper. Peddled it too. Not sorry about the SKS, but maybe I gave up to easily on the AG-42B.
Bill
 
Glad this has been ressurected! I dig these rifles!

Dryzen...when I used mine for hunting (23 years ago...) Remmingtin and, Winchester ammo was available...at Can-Tire! (14.99 a box !) The good 'ol days. I had big issues with the remmington ammo (or, the rifle) in that it liked to push the ball back, into the brass. N'er brought to a 'smith as, it didn't happen with the Winchester. Have most recently had great luck with Privi. I've never experienced a stuck case but, have seen them chewed up during extraction (and, the subsequent flinging...)

Through this thread, have read about making the gas tube "adjustable" and, that should truly fine tune the rifle....just haven't done it yet!
 
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