Questions on obtaining a deep sheen on a gunstock

[icehunter121]

A question, what can a fella use to obtain a deep sheen while refinishing a gunstock? I have tried and used tru oil, tung oil,BLO, and everything else I can find but still cant reproduce that illustrious deep sheen. I dont want a gloss finish, but more of a hand rubbed glowing smooth finish. I am redoing a sported ross rifle right now and laid on a coat of "red oil" last night. I tried some tung oil that was mixed with alkanet root powder and allowed to sit for a couple of weeks, and have a nice red tint on the stock now. The reason I tried tung oil is because it should produce a more waterproof base then BLO with alkanet root.

Now what should I try? I do also have some BLO mixed with alkanet root thats been sitting for a couple of months but because its wine color I dont really want to darken the stock anymore then what it is. Maybe plain BLO rubbed in with a cloth and allowed to dry?

I can get any other finish figured out but a nice glowing sheen has me stumped!

 

[Buckmastr]

Wet sand, wipe off, allow to dry for several days and repeat. This process works well filling pores and creating sheen in my experience using Danish oil. Multiple thin coats and stop when you have your desired sheen.

 

[Potashminer]

I have never tried it, but I think the military way was a few drops of linseed oil rubbed in / on with palm of hand. The friction created some heat, which was part of it? Apparently re-done many times - I think once a month when rifle was in service. From older wood stocks here, I am sure that linseed oil reacts with the air and oxides over time - I soaked some NOS beech No. 4 fore-arms and hand guards in a 50/50 mix of turpentine and BLO - for about a week - then wiped off with rag and hung to dry at least another week in my shop. That was about 5 years ago. Significantly darker today, than I remember. I have a WWI P14 stock that is almost black - have washed and "cleaned" it - I think that is just the linseed oil and 100 years of exposure to air... A M1917 that underwent WWI overhaul is also here - nice red colour - except somebody slathered on shiny varnish - too shiny for my "taste", but am thinking that varnish coat is actually sealing out the oxygen.

 

[icehunter121]

I have never tried it, but I think the military way was a few drops of linseed oil rubbed in / on with palm of hand. The friction created some heat, which was part of it? Apparently re-done many times - I think once a month when rifle was in service. From older wood stocks here, I am sure that linseed oil reacts with the air and oxides over time - I soaked some NOS beech No. 4 fore-arms and hand guards in a 50/50 mix of turpentine and BLO - for about a week - then wiped off with rag and hung to dry at least another week in my shop. That was about 5 years ago. Significantly darker today, than I remember. I have a WWI P14 stock that is almost black - have washed and "cleaned" it - I think that is just the linseed oil and 100 years of exposure to air... A M1917 that underwent WWI overhaul is also here - nice red colour - except somebody slathered on shiny varnish - too shiny for my "taste", but am thinking that varnish coat is actually sealing out the oxygen.

Once a day for a week,once a week for a month,once a month for a year and once a year after that. The thing is though that I am trying to get more of a finish that you would find on a hand rubbed very expensive double rifle. I want a warm glow,sheen with really no build. More like if you hit a piece of wood with a buffing wheel type of thinking.

 

[icehunter121]

Wet sand, wipe off, allow to dry for several days and repeat. This process works well filling pores and creating sheen in my experience using Danish oil. Multiple thin coats and stop when you have your desired sheen.

I used to have some danish oil and in my notes from 30+ years ago I mentioned it for getting a sheen on wood. I have test samples of 1x8 walnut sitting here that are 6 inches long. I have been playing with different finishes on them before trying it out on stocks. Last summer I picked up a few sets of enfield sported stocks and came up with using a 50/50 mix of BLO and tru oil rubbed in. Gave a stronger more durable finish then straight BLO,and I could control the amount of gloss by simpling adding more or less BLO. Maybe I am looking for a danish oil finish them some sort of wax? Might have to hit the local HH and see if they have any in stock. I have also played with minwax antique oil finish but it seems to be more of a poly type of finish. It really makes the grain "pop" out on a piece of walnut thats been sanded to 1000 grit. It doesnt adhere to itself worth a crap unless its sanded between coats and from what I have read its not waterproof either.

 

[Butcherbill]

I will periodically give my oil finish stocks a thin coat of furniture wax as well, once I rub it on with a soft cloth I let it sit for a bit and then lightly buff it. Two coats and there’s a nice sheen, protects it from moisture etc as well.

 

[cosmic]

My understanding is that Danish oil is a mix of BLO and varnish. I've used it in the past with success. Straight BLO is not the best as far as weatherproofing is concerned, there are better solutions available today.

 

[sean69]

Once a day for a week,once a week for a month,once a month for a year and once a year after that. The thing is though that I am trying to get more of a finish that you would find on a hand rubbed very expensive double rifle. I want a warm glow,sheen with really no build. More like if you hit a piece of wood with a buffing wheel type of thinking.

You are looking for a wax finish ... beeswax (or carnauba wax), tung oil (pure, do not use polymerized) and mineral spirits (or turpentine) - or furniture wax will also work.

Carnauba is a little more durable than bee's wax, mineral spirits stink a little less than turpentine - but both will work just fine. Been making my own for a little while now.

It is a finish that you will be reapplying from time to time but pretty much guarantees "waterproof"

You can also use pure bee's wax, but it is a pain in the ass to apply.

Check out some bowl turners youtube videos ... you'll get the idea.



Once a day for a week,once a week for a month,once a..... forget that. Once a natural pure oil has cured, nothing will (generally) get past it i.e. you are not re-oiling the stock or getting oil deeper into the wood all this is doing is filling pores (after the first 3-4 applications) A common practice is to cut your first couple of coats with spirits of some description and then a couple more of pure oils until the stock is not taking oil any more. Each application can take from a day to a week depending on humidity. if you oil it everyday for a week without the previous coats fully (!fully!) curing you are going to wind up with a gooey mess that bleeds oil periodically...

Tung cures faster than linseed and smells better IMO. but they effectively have the same protective properties.

Pure oils do not have a shine, they cure matte. (if you want proof dampen a rag with some, wipe it on a window & let it cure... ha!)

If you still want that sheen, you can do your first couple coats using a pure oil then the follow ups with a polymerized version cut with a sanding sealer or matte version mixed as well (Lee Valley sells all 3 tung prod)

OR all pure oil and then .... WAX

Have fun!

 

[Scarheart]

First make sure you have a fine enough finish to start with and no scratches. I am getting to around 2000 to 3000 grit by the time it's looking polished. The various oils and stuff suggested by others here all work but it depends on the wood. I most commonly use a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine to start with thickening the ratio with more linseed oil as I build up to the final polish. The last stages I start adding True oil. Again this depends a lot on the wood. Some woods don't like the True oil at all. I may also use Danish oil or Tung oil. I finish to a high gloss then take it back down again to get the warm satin glow you are talking about.

 

[G.E.FLACH]

BIRCHWOOD CASEY'S STOCK SHEEN AND CONDITIONER .
make sure the finish is good and dry than hand rub it with this stuff .Pure magic!

 

[cleger]

First make sure you have a fine enough finish to start with and no scratches. I am getting to around 2000 to 3000 grit by the time it's looking polished. The various oils and stuff suggested by others here all work but it depends on the wood. I most commonly use a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine to start with thickening the ratio with more linseed oil as I build up to the final polish. The last stages I start adding True oil. Again this depends a lot on the wood. Some woods don't like the True oil at all. I may also use Danish oil or Tung oil. I finish to a high gloss then take it back down again to get the warm satin glow you are talking about.

This is the answer. It's all in the polish.

If you want a built finish with film, you can go to something like Tru-oil at the end or any polymerised oil. Lots of things sold as "tung oil" and "boiled linseed oil" are just oil with polymer or metallic drying & plasticising agents added. They're not magic, and there's no secret. In olden times, before things like shellac, and then nitrocellulose lacquer came around, oil and wax were all there was.

Like scarheart says, if you want that near-gloss sheen from a rubbed/padded finish (vs. lacquer, etc) it has be in the wood. It's not in the finish. It's tedious, but you'd want to get it to at least 1000, then a few rounds each of 1500, 2000, 3000, letting the slurry dry each time. Yes, it's a pain-in-the-ass. There's really aren't any shortcuts, unless you have wheels and pads, and know how to use them.

I see no end of guys posting photos of their walnut stocks after they've sanded to 440 garnet and applied "Tru-oil" wondering why their gun doesn't look like a vintage Parker. I know that's not you, OP! But we're talking about (probably linseed, which is fine) oil, not polyurethane. In general it goes in the wood, not so much on it. The thing that takes the sheen is the wood itself.

All of that said, once you have the stock to 800, you can finish it up in a half-dozen sessions of perhaps a half-hour each

Re: wax, never mind the stuff that comes from bees. You want something durable. Most waxes sold for cars & things are full of solvents these days, so that they're easy to apply and to wipe off. High-dollar furniture waxes that come in fancy cans are mostly the same. Those same solvents will attack and dissolve your oil finish, and they compromise the wax as well.

Your best bet (unless you want to spring for something exotic) is regular parrafin. Wix ski wax works great, and lasts. So do little white tea candles.

 

[G.E.FLACH]

Hand rubbed Daly's ship and shore sealer and Birchwood Casey's stock sheen and conditioner to finnish.Ends up so smooth .

 

[icehunter121]

Hand rubbed Daly's ship and shore sealer and Birchwood Casey's stock sheen and conditioner to finnish.Ends up so smooth .

I really like that,its closer to what I am looking for. A little more sheen would be nice. Where would I get some of that Daly to give it a try? I will google it also,shipping because its a haz mat chemical will probably be a killer.

 

[cleger]

That looks very nice. I always check the specs on this stuff, due to my wood-finish OCD. The Daly's is "oil modified urethane," which is found in lots of floor finishes. It's what people often refer to as "oil-based polyurethane." Should wear well! The "stock sheen" is polish and wax in a single product. That sort of finish might suit the OP.

Back to the OP's question, if you're not too dissatisfied with the Tru-oil look (which is just polymerised oil... fast drying, and very well suited to reaching your stated goal) then you could just keep repeating applications... the trick to getting the "sheen" is like Scarheart said... it comes down to that high polish. But you can indeed get a very similar look with urethane, and more easily.

 

[icehunter121]

This is the answer. It's all in the polish.

If you want a built finish with film, you can go to something like Tru-oil at the end or any polymerised oil. Lots of things sold as "tung oil" and "boiled linseed oil" are just oil with polymer or metallic drying & plasticising agents added. They're not magic, and there's no secret. In olden times, before things like shellac, and then nitrocellulose lacquer came around, oil and wax were all there was.

Like scarheart says, if you want that near-gloss sheen from a rubbed/padded finish (vs. lacquer, etc) it has be in the wood. It's not in the finish. It's tedious, but you'd want to get it to at least 1000, then a few rounds each of 1500, 2000, 3000, letting the slurry dry each time. Yes, it's a pain-in-the-ass. There's really aren't any shortcuts, unless you have wheels and pads, and know how to use them.

I see no end of guys posting photos of their walnut stocks after they've sanded to 440 garnet and applied "Tru-oil" wondering why their gun doesn't look like a vintage Parker. I know that's not you, OP! But we're talking about (probably linseed, which is fine) oil, not polyurethane. In general it goes in the wood, not so much on it. The thing that takes the sheen is the wood itself.

All of that said, once you have the stock to 800, you can finish it up in a half-dozen sessions of perhaps a half-hour each

Re: wax, never mind the stuff that comes from bees. You want something durable. Most waxes sold for cars & things are full of solvents these days, so that they're easy to apply and to wipe off. High-dollar furniture waxes that come in fancy cans are mostly the same. Those same solvents will attack and dissolve your oil finish, and they compromise the wax as well.

Your best bet (unless you want to spring for something exotic) is regular parrafin. Wix ski wax works great, and lasts. So do little white tea candles.

All my stocks irregardless of what they are get 1000 grit then hit with the grain with 0000 steel wool. I have 1500 and 2000 grit here also and it wont take me long to get some 3000 grit. I dont mind the labour,last spring I spent 3 months just playing with finishes on the walnut samples. One phone call and I can get more of them to play with if need be. I already have a sample board done up with tung oil only and can play with it with BLO and lots of rubbing.

 

[cleger]

All my stocks irregardless of what they are get 1000 grit then hit with the grain with 0000 steel wool. I have 1500 and 2000 grit here also and it wont take me long to get some 3000 grit. I dont mind the labour,last spring I spent 3 months just playing with finishes on the walnut samples. One phone call and I can get more of them to play with if need be. I already have a sample board done up with tung oil only and can play with it with BLO and lots of rubbing.

If you're prepared to do that, my advice would be to just stick with the Tru-oil. Take your time, let it dry thoroughly between coats, and you'll see.

 

[caramel]

Renaissance micro cristaline wax buffed until cloth stay clean and you get this result in an hour or so. YMMV. JP.

 

[Buckmastr]

A couple I did this winter with Danish oil. A model 700 and a Abolt.

 

[sean69]

I really like that,its closer to what I am looking for. A little more sheen would be nice. Where would I get some of that Daly to give it a try? I will google it also,shipping because its a haz mat chemical will probably be a killer.

Sounds interesting, I took a peek - like the "hardening" property, never a terrible idea with a gun - though unless someone imports and carries it in Canada might be a problem as the MSDS says it's quite flammable.

All my stocks irregardless of what they are get 1000 grit then hit with the grain with 0000 steel wool. I have 1500 and 2000 grit here also and it wont take me long to get some 3000 grit. I dont mind the labour,last spring I spent 3 months just playing with finishes on the walnut samples. One phone call and I can get more of them to play with if need be. I already have a sample board done up with tung oil only and can play with it with BLO and lots of rubbing.

If you have that kind of patience then I would suggest you get and learn to use cabinet scrapers. No scratch pattern, no sanding down through multiple grits - one pass and 'done' (or two depending on how rough your surface is) it will be the smoother than and finish you can get with an abrasive of any kind and you won;t have to do much if any whiskering. (and abrasives are expensive, scrapers run $2 - $15 each or so and will likely last the rest of your life.)

I would recommend (even though I have broken this rule myself) staying away from steel wool. You wind up with it embedded into the wood & it can ruin a finish - granted with stains, oils and waxes you are pretty safe but if you are doing an aqua fortis or ferric nitrate finish you are going to have a problem.

Don't discount bee's wax - carnauba and parrafin are quite slippery (so I am not entirely surprised to learn paraffin is used for ski wax) - bee's wax is not.
I use paraffin to protect/lubricate my machine tools (planer, jointer, bandsaw etc), planes and chisels - works great.

Carnauba is the hardest of the 3 - it's not entirely out of the question to blend 2 or more of the three to get the properties you want.

 

[icehunter121]

A couple I did this winter with Danish oil. A model 700 and a Abolt.

The second one is getting real close to what I am looking for. A little more sheen then that but not a gloss finish and I would be happy. I looked yesterday for danish oil in town and nada,in fact all I can find is one 250ml, can 40 miles from me. Hopefully its still there Tuesday so I can have it picked up.