qustions on how to build up my gun//and need help shooting prone

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nova_scotian_guy

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Location
queens county nova scotia
the platform

Remington 700 SPS tactical chambered in 308
once i get everything for reloading i will be shooting 168 grain projectiles for target and if i do hunt with the gun they will 180 grain projectiles

to start out with i will need a scope/rings
i am looking at something that will be good out to 600 yards but my price range is kinda tight $400 ish... i would like something new just because i have bought 2 scopes used from EE that have been duds but buying from the right person i might just try to buy 1 more used scope


next i will move on to the stock
the stock is just the rubberized one that came from the factory i will keep it on the gun for now until i get a little better at shooting
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on a side note if someone wanted to spend some money on a stock(less then $700 what would u recommend


last thing i need help with is shooting in prone
the range i currently go is 100 yards i find looking through my last scope(cross hairs look like X now not +) with my head/check/body in a nice relaxed position that the but of the gun was right on my collarbone (i have a 6-9 inch bi pod) what i need to know about this is
1 do i need to change the way i am in prone?
2 is it something about the bi pod (too low?)
3 or do i just need to get use to the recoil on my collarbone ?

the target it about 3-4 feet higher at 100 yards then i am.. i was thinking this was the issue but i lowered the target that seemed to help some ( i had to move it almost to ground lvl)
 
ummmmmmmmmm..........

Go with someone that knows how to reload and shoot well prone.
depending on twist of your barrel, 180 might not work and get the scope mounted at a Store first if you never done it before..

any gun will shoot to 600 yards regarding of price really... get someone to show you on how to glass bed and free float the rifle and will only cost around $30 to do it your own.

Also never change your body to fit your rifle. Rifle needs to fit your body as always.
 
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Proper prone positioning.

Pm sent
 
Ok, the scope first. My first scope was a Bushnell Elite 3200 4-12x40 on a Rem700 and it was great for my own 600 yard shooting. It was repeatable and reliable and <$400 by quite a bit. I think Bushnell offers great value to blue-collar shoppers. You can buy higher magnification glass within your budget but it will cost you clarity, in most cases. ;)

The stock; with a $700 budget, you can check out the Choate Tactical. It's adjustable and has a full bedding block. I saw one at a gun show and was really impressed with it. It's a fair bit heavier than what you have which will reduce felt recoil. Mystic has them on his site. I found a B&C tactical in the EE for $550 and jumped on it. There's a lot of option, even a 5r take off stock.

Shooting prone; I don't have any real advise. I tried different position until something worked. I spent a lot of time shooting from 7 o'clock, now I'm at 6 o'clock to the gun, both legs flat, shoulders square,(see above pic ;)) and it's what works. I don't think there's one right way, we're all built differently so what works for me might not work for you.

Good luck, you're in for a fun ride :).
 
Here's my advice on shooting prone for right-handed shooters (from RCACS):

Use a sling. Have the sling slung from the forend to the buttstock. With the sling hanging in an inverted bow, reach your left arm between the rifle and the sling. Pull your arm to the left and have the sling running from the outside of your elbow to the inside of your wrist. Bring your hand to the forend and grasp it. Adjust the length of the sling so that you can change the tension of it by changing the geometry of your supporting arm. If your sling is just right you'll be able to sqeeze your supporting hand and lock the butt to your shooting shoulder. Use breath control and squeeze.
 
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Good on you NSG! I just bought one of these too. I probably am doing it all wrong and my scholarly moral and intellectual superiors will no doubt correct me...but here is how I am going about getting set up.

First of all - let the rifle tell YOU what it is going to eat. There's a good chance your rifle may prefer something you don't have listed on your menu. The projectiles you listed are great starting points though.

Scopes: you will need two. For hunting the 3x9 is really hard to beat, you won't want to be futzing around with parallax and BDC's and all that crap for shooting deer or moose at 75 yards or 200. If you are going out to 600 at the range - you will need all that to compete with these boys here. Take your lumps and spend big cash on the scope - this rifle is capable of taking advantage of it. Putting a cheap scope on this rifle is like putting a four banger in a dragster. I put a swarovski 3x10 on mine with the 3/4 duplex and absolutely love it. If I were to go cheaper I would draw the line at a high end Leupold - but that's just me. When you pick your scope, don't check it out in the store - drag the gun counter guy outside with you and check them out there. I did that with the Zeiss, Swarovski and Leupold and couldn't tell a stitch's worth between them...but went with the more expensive optic based on reputation and the fact that I already have a Zeiss.

That 'stock' stock may be cheap but it is a darn good one. The rifle is already a heavyweight and if you hunt she is already dangerously overweight. Get your basics and practice first. You may discover that for the kind of shooting you do you may not need a boutique stock.

Finally, for shooting prone, Trigger has the goods on that! I personally won't tolerate a bipod on my hunting guns because I practice all the positions all the time. I can smack a deer in the ribs offhand out to 100 yards easily. Beyond that, I can do it out to 200 from the sitting position. Slinging up and going prone, I am good out to 300. Beyond that, I use my pack for a rest and prefer it to the bipod. If I get a shot beyond 300 at game I usually turn my nose up at it. I know my limits. Sling 'er up, and take your lessons from the Green Bean United States Marines! Get the GI 1" leather sling and you will have a ball.

Further: get a range finder. I am going to get one of these ASAP because my range estimation has gone to hell over the years. The key to these is using them properly. Don't take it with you to hunt, you will be futzing around with the range finder when you should be shooting. Use it as a training aid. When you are out walking the dog, estimate ranges to street signs, fences, buildings, etc - and check your guess with the range finder. You will be surprised how proficient you get. I used to guess and pace it off to check but I am too old and lazy for that now.

Above all - get off the bench and bipod and practice the positions. Then practice shooting from less than optimal positions. Precision shooting and general rifleman skills are two very different disciplines and any concession you make to one will leave you deficient in the other. You need to pick which one appeals to you and which compromises you can live with.

Just my .02.
 
For a decent scope that is close to your price range try finding a used bushnell elite 4200 6-24x. As far as tips for shooting prone go to the snipershide forums and do some reading, there are a lot of discussions on proper technique.
 
c4pyro said:
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Proper prone positioning.

Pm sent
Click to expand...


I was told different, but I'm new and still learning. Reason for being more on "side" is to prevent breathing from moving your body. So knee up high and more on your side prone. Who knows though. Seemed to work for me when a complete noob was hitting a 4" target at 560yards and had under MOA at 100.

I was also told to keep my thumb up and on the same side of the pistol grip, not across the back.


I am in the process of buying a SPS as well.

I've already purchased the following:

Vortex Viper PST
TPS rings and rail
Bell and Carlson Medalist Style 2 stock.
Harris Bi-pod (6-9)

Rifle is on hold till my PAL comes. (Hopefully today!)

I also have a nearly complete set of reloading gear (RCBS Supreme and other accessories)

Should be fun!

I plan on shooting 178 Gr AMAX in the 1-10 twist 20" with Varget to start. Lapua brass, CCI BR2 primers.

I know this is all WELL over $300 (more in the thousands) but shows that rings/scope is only one part you'll want. Notice I didn't say need. You could slap a cheap scope and rings on and shoot but you may also be wanting to upgrade very quick.

For that price I'd try to extend your budget a bit and look for a Bushnell 4200 used. They seem to be about the cheapest reasonable quality scope out there used. Look for used rings and rail as well. These don't come cheap new!!
 
The position you were told about was prone unsupported: shooting prone without a mechanical support. It is a different position from the one posted above which is prone supported: shooting with a mechanical support (bipod, bag, sled etc.) Prone unsupported requires you to use your body to support the rifle, ergonomics are different than with the rifle supported mechanically. The sling is the best tool for helping with this position. If your using a mechanical support then dont waste your time in the wrong position: use the one posted. When done properly you let your entire body relax using no muscle whatsoever. When supporting the rifle you are using alot of your muscles together with a sling to make yourself solid. They are quite different. Of course there are all the little details of preference but the basic positions need to be used in the proper situation. The problem with your recoil pad mount is the stock. It is a sporting stock trying to cover too many bases in its design. The stock has too much drop for proper prone shooting. With the recoil pad mounted to your shoulder properly, you will be reaching your neck way up and forward putting intense strain on it. This will degrade your groups worse than someone poking you with a stick while you shoot. Of course mounting it low on your collar bone doesnt allow the recoil pad to do its things causing pain from recoil that will lead to a flinch. I may make up a drop spacer for the recoil pad on my hogue stock until I figure out a better stock.
 
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