Rachet indents on brass. Options?

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BCRider said:
You're assuming a lot here. First of all you're assuming that the flux will be able to clean the metal in the cracks well enough to get a good joint. Since you've got no way to go in there and check the cracks or mechanically clean the surface prior to the flux chemically cleaning the surfaces it's likely you won't get a really good bond. You're also assuming that the metal of the frame around the cracks has not bent and that is why it cracked. You're also assuming that you know how to correctly silver braze. From the options you've posted and questions you've asked I'm going to guess that you've never actually used silver brazing products.

Anyway, everyone and their brother has said that this gun should never see any sort of live charge in it ever again. How often do you need to read this before you believe it? Or do you simply figure that you have all the answers?

Just do everyone a favour and do not shoot it at the range when others are present. So WHEN it blows up and sends parts this way and that no one will be hurt.

I'm out of here.
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Agreed,

Again, why fire a compromised gun that you cannot realistically fix to satisfactory standards without extremely cost preventative measures?

Just let it go as one of life's crappy situations and get yourself another solid shooter grade .38 Rim fire Revolver.
 
BCRider said:
You're assuming a lot here. First of all you're assuming that the flux will be able to clean the metal in the cracks well enough to get a good joint. Since you've got no way to go in there and check the cracks or mechanically clean the surface prior to the flux chemically cleaning the surfaces it's likely you won't get a really good bond.
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Yeah, I would be using solvents and acids to clean it, pressurized air and water, possibly pressurized butane. Lots of options available, after ensuring compatibility. I realize how important it is to clean the object before brazing or plating. And I would be doing at least some filing, to better expose the crack. If the silver didn't make it into the crack, then I would likely have to file out a good portion of the cracked section.

And yes, I've never brazed before. I would likely do it using a butane torch with high quality butane, rather than propane or higher temperature tools. Youtube and Google would be my friend on that, and I would certainly be testing on other objects before trying on the receiver.

Gotta start somewhere.

No. This will only show you the core piece was first cast.
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That's what I thought. I've been leaning towards forged for a while. That's why I'm assuming what I plan to do will result in annealing.

get yourself another solid shooter grade .38 Rim fire Revolver.
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2 inch barrels are hard to find on antiques.
 
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Kid said:
Yeah, I would be using solvents and acids to clean it, pressurized air and water, possibly pressurized butane. Lots of options available, after ensuring compatibility. I realize how important it is to clean the object before brazing or plating. And I would be doing at least some filing, to better expose the crack. If the silver didn't make it into the crack, then I would likely have to file out a good portion of the cracked section.

And yes, I've never brazed before. I would likely do it using a butane torch with high quality butane, rather than propane or higher temperature tools. Youtube and Google would be my friend on that, and I would certainly be testing on other objects before trying on the receiver.

Gotta start somewhere.


That's what I thought. I've been leaning towards forged for a while. That's why I'm assuming what I plan to do will result in annealing.


2 inch barrels are hard to find on antiques.
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Really like the snubbies eh? guess I can't blame you there.
 
Kid said:
Yeah, I would be using solvents and acids to clean it, pressurized air and water, possibly pressurized butane. Lots of options available, after ensuring compatibility. I realize how important it is to clean the object before brazing or plating. And I would be doing at least some filing, to better expose the crack. If the silver didn't make it into the crack, then I would likely have to file out a good portion of the cracked section.

And yes, I've never brazed before. I would likely do it using a butane torch with high quality butane, rather than propane or higher temperature tools. Youtube and Google would be my friend on that, and I would certainly be testing on other objects before trying on the receiver.

Gotta start somewhere.


2 inch barrels are hard to find on antiques.
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a little butane torch will not heat anything hot enough to braze you need a lot of heat to do so hang it up and forget about it it should never be fired again its a wall hanger that's the last time I will say this to you its not repairable. get a modern gun too shoot
 
antiqueguy said:
a little butane torch will not heat anything hot enough to braze you need a lot of heat
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I figure you're right. With a thin enough object, butane would work, but with the thickness of the receiver, I would likely end up annealing more than I would need to if I used butane.

I'm OK with putting out some cash for oxy/acetylene and a small torch. Another useful skill to learn.
 
antiqueguy said:
a little butane torch will not heat anything hot enough to braze you need a lot of heat to do so hang it up and forget about it it should never be fired again its a wall hanger that's the last time I will say this to you its not repairable. get a modern gun too shoot
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I agree, I have some really nice tight examples in various calibers, some easy to get or load for.

Still I do not fire them like a normal casual shooter, these guns are old and need to be respected for what they are.

I have shot most of my antique revolver a maximum of 75 rounds a piece and that is very liberal. They spend most of their life sitting in fluid film in a safe.

These old revolvers could possibly take many thousands of rounds but honestly, just go easy on em and enjoy them for the fact that they are still functional, amazingly!
 
Kid said:
I figure you're right. With a thin enough object, butane would work, but with the thickness of the receiver, I would likely end up annealing more than I would need to if I used butane.

I'm OK with putting out some cash for oxy/acetylene and a small torch. Another useful skill to learn.
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You'll need the proper tip for the torch. There are several sized "brazing tips". Just as important to that is the rod and flux. Now you have the tools...do you have the skill?
 
Kid said:
I figure you're right. With a thin enough object, butane would work, but with the thickness of the receiver, I would likely end up annealing more than I would need to if I used butane.

I'm OK with putting out some cash for oxy/acetylene and a small torch. Another useful skill to learn.
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and it will take a quite a bit of time to learn this skill oxy/fuel is not easy you would most likely anneal the entire receiver that is if you don't completely melt the area you are brazing. this is from someone who does all sorts of welding oxy/fuel stick and mig(im too broke to afford a decent tig machine). once again hang it up and buy a modern gun to shoot on a normal basis I have plenty of antiques(hence the name) and the only one I shoot often is my martini henry mk4 and even that is just every now and then. a sks or a nice old .22lr would go a long way for you to keep all your body parts
 
Kid, I remember your last thread about this gun.

I'm sorry that you've learned the hard way. Shooting/ reloading for antiques is not a past time for the new reloader.

How would you feel if the gun blew up and your wife filming you was injured?

It's one thing to hurt yourself being stupid but to injure the ones you love or a stranger that's around is just sickening!!
 
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I suppose one of the options might be 'Don't feed the Troll'.
Not judging, but beginning to lean that way
BTW, Brazing is a lost art. Most welders won't even do it any more...what I've found anyhow
 
tokguy said:
I suppose one of the options might be 'Don't feed the Troll'.
Not judging, but beginning to lean that way
BTW, Brazing is a lost art. Most welders won't even do it any more...what I've found anyhow
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I do it all the time when joining indifferent metals you can also weld brass/copper for copper romex wire works as filler
 
Oh I do it too. But it is a bit out of the ordinary. I think it's harder to do correctly than Stick by a darn sight.
In school we used to have to braze two 4" square pieces of 12 gauge mild steel together. Then put the brazed spot directly under a large press and bend the whole she-bang into a big 'U' shape with the brazed weld at the very bottom...without the braze breaking free anywhere.
A lot harder to get right than you might think. It might look very nice, but actually holding under severe pressure...hard to get that right.
It's like welding, not as easy as it seems. That's why a MIG hand is not a welder; he's a 'Machine Operator'
Purty welds don't mean anything til the pressure hits them.
That's why the OP in this post should leave off mucking about with torches.
Oh...and I'm not a welder BTW. I just know enough to get me to 1st or 2nd year apprentice...25 years ago LOL.
 
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I really wish I knew what Province this thing is going to be fired in.

And I VERY MUCH hope it is one at least 2 removed from where I live; I am much too young and purty to be hit by flying chunks of old brass and iron.

There has been a LOT of VERY good advice on this thread, much of it coming from people who I would not DARE to contradict.

The BEST of that advice is to retire the old gun.

The problem with people who just refuse to listen is that they give ALL of us a bad name.
 
smellie said:
I really wish I knew what Province this thing is going to be fired in.

And I VERY MUCH hope it is one at least 2 removed from where I live; I am much too young and purty to be hit by flying chunks of old brass and iron.
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If God wants to smite you, I somehow doubt he would be so imaginative.
 
Some people you just shake your head at. Stupid is, as stupid does. The OP has pretty much pissed on most of the more knowledgeable folks on this forum. Just waiting for a hold my beer and watch this moment.
 
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