Random question about polishing....

emilio613

emilio613

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So here's a question about polishing a blued pistol.

I want to polish parts of a pistol (1911), not the whole thing. Just maybe the slide sides, or get a look similar to a Kimber Eclipse (where only parts are polished...semi polished that is).

However, I am just worried that since its a factory blued gun, will I face extreme rust issues with the exposed surfaces?

Is there any way to do it and prevent rust?

(I am not interested in parkerizing, duracoating or any other commercial stuff. Just a home project question, that's all!)

Is it simply a bad idea?

Thank you!
 
You will run into rust issues, I removed the bluing on my 1911 and polished part of the slide, I ran into rust issues right away. I ended up re-bluing it. Just my experience though.
 
I have removed the blueing and then used aluminum rim polish to shine and protect it and it works fine. Still no rust after two years.
 
I'd go with CT.. Better selection. I'd be curious about the exact product make/model since it sure beats having to reapply mineral oil on a regular basis in order to protect the surface.
 
where you live would make a diff too, i live in a very dry climate, most of our yearly moisture come as snow, its frozen and the air is dryyyyyyyy!
i have recently polished some gun parts, with 400,800,1600,and finished with Autosol a german,(so it must be the best..lol)
a tube of Autosol was under ten bucks at bumper to bumper, its suposed to shine and protect all metals....time will tell
another thing i have done is submerge the parts in 10w30 motor oil and place in the oven @ 215 f,(too hot and you get smoking, fire hazard and coking) and leave em in there all day while i work around the house,dont know if it helps rust proofing, but it is a good way to finish a Can Tire blu job...haha i said blu job...sorrylol!
 
The aluminium in "mag" wheels will become tarnished and pitted following polishing if some sort of protection isn't applied. So I think you'll find that most wheel polishing products include some sort of automotive wax as part of the recipe.

The only trouble with a car wax is that most of them are soluable in the solvents we typically use for cleaning our guns. So you're left with just the usual gun oil to keep the "in the white" metal from rusting pretty quickly following one or two cleanings with solvents. The trick is to just not be so aggresive in wipeing away the outside oil after you apply it. Leave the film on the polished areas a little thicker and it won't rust. At least it won't be at any risk more than the blued areas.

THis is one time where a slightly less than mirror like surface will be an advantage. With even a smooth and fine "brushed" finish there's lots of small striations to hold oil which then speads out and protects the metal even if you try to wipe most of it away. But a truly mirror like finish does not have the small surface striations to hold oil the same way. So you have to be a little more careful not to wipe away quite as much of the oil.
 
BCRider said:
The aluminium in "mag" wheels will become tarnished and pitted following polishing if some sort of protection isn't applied. So I think you'll find that most wheel polishing products include some sort of automotive wax as part of the recipe.

The only trouble with a car wax is that most of them are soluable in the solvents we typically use for cleaning our guns. So you're left with just the usual gun oil to keep the "in the white" metal from rusting pretty quickly following one or two cleanings with solvents. The trick is to just not be so aggresive in wipeing away the outside oil after you apply it. Leave the film on the polished areas a little thicker and it won't rust. At least it won't be at any risk more than the blued areas.

THis is one time where a slightly less than mirror like surface will be an advantage. With even a smooth and fine "brushed" finish there's lots of small striations to hold oil which then speads out and protects the metal even if you try to wipe most of it away. But a truly mirror like finish does not have the small surface striations to hold oil the same way. So you have to be a little more careful not to wipe away quite as much of the oil.
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No sweat, I am not a fan of mirror shine polishes. I like the brushed aluminum/brush wheel finish, with SLIGHT high # paper to smoothen it a bit. That way you get that nice "CNC'd" look, as though it came of a machine, but its not as rough.

Now, the only debate is, do I want to ruin my gun, or will it make it look better. I don't exactly have bluing tanks I can toss the gun into afterwards if I muff up!
 
Why not test a piece of good metal, polish it to the luster you desire, apply your choice of Gun Oil/protection to it, and leave it out in the weather for a while and see how it hold up? Find a product that prevents rust to your liking in thatmanner, then take your 1911 to task.
 
IMagius said:
Why not test a piece of good metal, polish it to the luster you desire, apply your choice of Gun Oil/protection to it, and leave it out in the weather for a while and see how it hold up? Find a product that prevents rust to your liking in thatmanner, then take your 1911 to task.
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In theory, an awesome concept, but I have no idea what iron/steel grade is used for a Norinco slide/frame?

I would have to find a similar piece of metal, polish it etc and do what you suggest.

PS saw a sweet product today at walmart - mag and chrome polish! It comes in a can, $8.70 or something in there, and its like a hard wax that you buff on :)
 
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