RC ce 41 mauser

Nabs where did you find your front sight hood? Since your 1940 Sauer front sight isn't grooved and my 1941 Sauer's is, I'm thinking mine should have one. Thanks.
 
I am looking forward to that early kar98k book.

As for the sight hood, I got it as a package off ebay for $20 plus $15 or $20 shipping if I remember correctly. It came with a repro sling (nice repro maker markings and WaA markings), and cleaning rod (12 inch one). The seller also had other packages for early kar98ks with cleaning rod and sling only.

I was tempted to get an original sling from the U.S but they cost almost as much as a rc kar98k in some cases.

Be warned though, putting the sight hood back on is a true p.i.t.a squared without the right tools and some elbow grease. Also make sure you are happy with everything below the stockline as it will be difficult to disassemble your rifle after you put the hood on (front band will not be able to slide over the hood).

The sight hood does look great in the end. I just wish I had an updated pic of my bcd in her trim to show you.
 
I have found snap ring pliers for external snap rings to work well for getting the sight hood into place on k98's. One tip is wear safety glasses, the hood is spring steel and if it takes off on you while you are trying to install, it will go like a bullet. I got mine from Mario in Holland, a great source for original stocks(Norwegian surrenders), cleaning rods and hoods.
 
The repro packages are great for the money. The sight hood really finishes it off, and I find it helps me pick up a target without having to squint too bad :p The cleaning rods are useless but give it a more authentic feel, and the locking screws are 100% necessary for my RC. I was at the range yesterday, and after 14rds my actions screws were so loose the action was moving in the stock. I had the same issue with my last rifle until I picked up two repro locking screws. Never happened again.
 
...and you have yet to post a range report ? Shame on you :D.

I had two lock screws in my parts bin that fit on my J.P. so that is good but I left them off my bcd as the action screws do not permit a lock screw to be used. I haven't had a problem with her though, I just make sure the screws are tight before heading off to the range. Worse comes to worse, I always keep a spare screwdriver and bit set in my range tool box incase something happens.

The one rifle I did run into the action screw problem was my 91.30 and that was annoying for trying to get accurate shots.
 
I think the lock screws are necessary on RC's because of mismatched stocks and shrunken wood. The late war k98's had none as mentioned and I've never had an issue with the screws coming loose.
 
Nabs said:
Hey fugawi, you know what we both missed ? Shots of the receivers! Now our rifles are both unique in a way, they are from before and after the German production code switch of 1941. I always liked the "ce" as it is stamped very nicely.[/IMG]
Click to expand...

Here you go Nabs, two pics of the receiver from above. Not that you will see the ce 41 script much. Its very faint and has that crap on it (second photo). I'm wondering if something can dissolve the Russian 'bluing' without damaging the German bluing.

I'm also thinking of using bronze wool but worry that would scratch the original bluing too. Opinions and recommendations anyone?

zCKD2.jpg


lKs6c.jpg

You can just make out the 'ce' and part of the '41' in this one. Maybe better lighting would help.
 
here is my Spanish 1916 mauser chambered in 7.62x51NATO, also if anyone know's where I can get a small amount of ammo online I would appreciate it, canada ammo has it but I don't need 500 rounds.

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fugawi, I recommend steel wool 00 or 0000. I have used both for stubborn rifles and it has removed surface crud, surface rusting...etc without harming the original finish. For your Kar98k, I would suggest trying 0000 first. Afterwards, a wipe with a shop towel and some oiling should give you a nice looking, clean rifle.
 
labradorshooter, you may wish to consider hand loading that way you can customize your own loads for your rifle. Newly made brass and bullets for 7.62 Nato should be quite common I would think. I think you could also get away with .308 Winchester brass but be very careful if you consider using newly made .308 Winchester commercial ammo as it is rated to be more powerful than 7.62 Nato and may be a bit too much for your 1916 to handle.
 
Nabs said:
fugawi, I recommend steel wool 00 or 0000. I have used both for stubborn rifles and it has removed surface crud, surface rusting...etc without harming the original finish. For your Kar98k, I would suggest trying 0000 first. Afterwards, a wipe with a shop towel and some oiling should give you a nice looking, clean rifle.
Click to expand...

A member of Gunboards suggests using bronze wool instead of steel wool as he said tiny little pieces break off and then work there way into tiny crevices and start to rust. Don't know how much truth there is in this but it seems to make sense. Plus I would expect bronze wool to be easier on the steel but 'tuf enuf' for the rust.

Will try one or the other - the ce 41 is pretty faint as is, don't know if Ivan tried removing before refurbishing it..
 
I had a s/27 1938 all matching but floor plate. Most beautiful mauser i have had. IT HAD A RUSSIAN CAPTURE "X" ON IT AND IT STILL HAD MATCHING #'S, NO SHELAC NO REBLUEING, LOCKING SREWS WERE THERE AND CLEANING ROD THERE . I GOT IT FOR 375 WITH A GOOD BORE, BUT IS SHOT LOW 2FT LOW AT 100YARDS AND GAVE IT AWAY.
 
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