RCBS inertia bullet puller broke

well Henry I figured it would be, I sent a email with pictures of the broken puller, the word back today I have to send the broken one back registered post, when they receive it they will send a replacement, this will be the first time it costs money to get something replaced, its the way warranty works for items you buy from China, postage is too expensive in this case

I guess they were probably getting too many picture copies & decided that physical proof was the way to go.

I think it's still cheaper than buying a new one from somewhere.

Regards, Henry
 
spoke with them today, I can saw it into a thickness that can go letter mail, take pictures of other parts cut up, we will see how long to get replacement, merry christmas everyone
 
Good lord, kinetic pullers are the devil's own. They only make sense if you don't have even a hand press. Unless you exclusively use a Lee Loader by oil lantern, it's crazy to use a kinetic puller instead of a collet puller.
 
Had a inertia puller and gave it away, because it was slow and sometimes messy. Went many years before needing a puller again.

Then bought the RCBS puller die with .30 and .22 cal collets.
Used it a couple times and sold it.

I will never use any collet style ever again. Even if you are as gentle as you possibly can be, they will always mess up your bullet's profile. That is, it will change your bullet's ogive.

I would rather go back to an inertia hammer.

Nonsense. Total nonsense. First, yes you can pull them with no marks, and secondly, even if they were marked up slightly that's not going to affect anything. It's also not necessarily right at the ogive to bearing surface that they grab, depending on how the bullet is seated. The ogive is the curved area, collet pullers grab on the bearing surface.

There's a non trivial learning curve to using them correctly, but when you do they don't molest your bullets at all.

I've tested this exact thing, intentionally gooning bullets to the point of obvious stupidity and excessive clamping force. I couldn't find a difference on paper.
 
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Good lord, kinetic pullers are the devil's own. They only make sense if you don't have even a hand press. Unless you exclusively use a Lee Loader by oil lantern, it's crazy to use a kinetic puller instead of a collet puller.

its impossible to use a collet puller on round nose 44 Webley, these were a few reloaded rounds that were short on powder, I use the collet puller for anything it can grab
 
its impossible to use a collet puller on round nose 44 Webley, these were a few reloaded rounds that were short on powder, I use the collet puller for anything it can grab

I pull hard and soft cast LRN pistol rounds with no issue? Sometimes I have to go down a size and jam it in (oh boy that sounds bad), but it'll eventually pull out (ohhhhh lord that sounds worse.) I've not ever been able to pull a bullet with a hammer that I couldn't with a collet die?

Caveat being the bullets will certainly be toast in the case of cast lead, but if they're properly crimped, they'd have to go in the recast bucket anyway?
 
I pull hard and soft cast LRN pistol rounds with no issue? Sometimes I have to go down a size and jam it in (oh boy that sounds bad), but it'll eventually pull out (ohhhhh lord that sounds worse.) I've not ever been able to pull a bullet with a hammer that I couldn't with a collet die?

Caveat being the bullets will certainly be toast in the case of cast lead, but if they're properly crimped, they'd have to go in the recast bucket anyway?

looking at the round nose 44 Webley both my Hornady cam-lock puller and RCBS puller defiantly will not pull these, they are not crimped, bit of background, I made a mold to cast a dozen 44RN Webley, loaded a dozen up and fired a few off, they had 5.0 grains of black powder, after reviewing the results I figured I would try a compressed load of 6.5 grains, hence why I wanted to pull them, the compressed load was a vas improvement over the 5.0 grains velocities going from 300 fps ish to close to 500 fps
 
Good lord, kinetic pullers are the devil's own. They only make sense if you don't have even a hand press. Unless you exclusively use a Lee Loader by oil lantern, it's crazy to use a kinetic puller instead of a collet puller.

For most jobs I agree that a collet puller is better but sometimes they don't work and a kinetic puller is the only option, like trying to remove some round nose bullets or some flush seated wadcutters in 38 Special.
 
Nonsense. Total nonsense. First, yes you can pull them with no marks, and secondly, even if they were marked up slightly that's not going to affect anything. It's also not necessarily right at the ogive to bearing surface that they grab, depending on how the bullet is seated. The ogive is the curved area, collet pullers grab on the bearing surface.

There's a non trivial learning curve to using them correctly, but when you do they don't molest your bullets at all.

I've tested this exact thing, intentionally gooning bullets to the point of obvious stupidity and excessive clamping force. I couldn't find a difference on paper.

No ... no nonsense.

I never even spoke of marks -but rest assured it CAN (at least was the case in my 200 2nd gen MKs... very long pointy bullets) change the bearing surface length and ogive placement of bullet.
In my case, the really changed the contours of bullets.
Using a Sinclair style bullet comparator, I found that it indeed changed the position of the datum anywhere between 0.005 and 0.010.
Using a different/simpler measurement method of 2 Hornady comparators on a digital calipers confirmed it.

I know this because I sort all of my projectiles within 0.001 using three measurements....

(1) base to ogive (Sinclair tool method),
(2) bearing surface length (2 Hornady 30 cal comparators),
(3) finally I will also sort using one 30 cal Hornady comparator and one 17 cal comparator. The intent here is to check for consistency in the distance from the tail ogive to the closer to the tip of the bullet.

As for difference on paper ? ... well maybe there is maybe there isn't.

I've never done any such test with them.

If they were pulled with the collet, I would chuck them the "fouler/reject" pile and use them in a warmup/blow off rounds for the start of a F-class tournament.
 
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No ... no nonsense.

I never even spoke of marks -but rest assured it CAN (at least was the case in my 200 2nd gen MKs... very long pointy bullets) change the bearing surface length and ogive placement of bullet.
In my case, the really changed the contours of bullets.
Using a Sinclair style bullet comparator, I found that it indeed changed the position of the datum anywhere between 0.005 and 0.010.
Using a different/simpler measurement method of 2 Hornady comparators on a digital calipers confirmed it.

I know this because I sort all of my projectiles within 0.001 using three measurements....

(1) base to ogive (Sinclair tool method),
(2) bearing surface length (2 Hornady 30 cal comparators),
(3) finally I will also sort using one 30 cal Hornady comparator and one 17 cal comparator. The intent here is to check for consistency in the distance from the tail ogive to the closer to the tip of the bullet.

As for difference on paper ? ... well maybe there is maybe there isn't.

I've never done any such test with them.

If they were pulled with the collet, I would chuck them the "fouler/reject" pile and use them in a warmup/blow off rounds for the start of a F-class tournament.

We approached it differently. Instead of measuring every bullet three times and fretting over what it may mean, I just gooned a box's worth (some even intentionally) and shot them. I could detect no difference in groups, ES or SD.

It seems fair enough to reserve them for foulers and sighters, but I would also know that it was purely for mental reasons that I was doing so. A good enough reason as any.

We'll just have to disagree about the utility of sorting modern high quality bullets at all, much less three times. But, it's all mental, really.
 
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For most jobs I agree that a collet puller is better but sometimes they don't work and a kinetic puller is the only option, like trying to remove some round nose bullets or some flush seated wadcutters in 38 Special.

Ahhhhh true and fair enough, wadcutters are a no go.

In that case I'd rig some sort of drill powered screw extractor die to avoid having to use Beelzebub's banger.
 
looking at the round nose 44 Webley both my Hornady cam-lock puller and RCBS puller defiantly will not pull these, they are not crimped, bit of background, I made a mold to cast a dozen 44RN Webley, loaded a dozen up and fired a few off, they had 5.0 grains of black powder, after reviewing the results I figured I would try a compressed load of 6.5 grains, hence why I wanted to pull them, the compressed load was a vas improvement over the 5.0 grains velocities going from 300 fps ish to close to 500 fps

I have had nothing but better results going to a 10% + compressed load with BPC. That's a whole other problem if you have to pull one down. Pulling the bullet is trivial in comparison to the time spent digging out solid BP.
 
yesterday in the mail arrived a new RCBS inertia bullet puller, its now totally plastic, ended up sawing the handle and head into slithers so they fit in a envelope to return it to RCBS, these guys are awesome for warranty and m looking forward to trying the new design.

my question is when did they stop producing the version with the hex aluminum shaft?
 
after a days work figured I would pull some 44webley rounds to check powder and add some, on the 6th round the head flew off the handle, had it some time maybe 200 rounds total, on inspection there is grooves in the shaft to hold the handle in, its sheared off on the first groove, likely why they have gone to all plastic

anyone had this happen?



I've used mine tons of times . and I wacked it on a piece of soft wood . never broke it . dented the wood . it's an old one . try wacking it on cardboard.
 
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