RCBS Powder measure problems

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saskminer

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I'm having a heck of a time getting repeatable dumps from my RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure. I've cleaned it with alcohol and completely disassembled it twice but I'm still getting variation of a grain or two every dump. It is a major pain in the rear to dump a charge and use the trickler every time.
What am I doing wrong? I'm using Hodgson H4831sc powder and I'm trying to do consistent actions when dumping the powder. I'm still learning reloading - just about used up my first pound of powder so if the powder I'm using is causing some of the issue I'm good to change to something else.
 
saskminer said:
I'm having a heck of a time getting repeatable dumps from my RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure. I've cleaned it with alcohol and completely disassembled it twice but I'm still getting variation of a grain or two every dump. It is a major pain in the rear to dump a charge and use the trickler every time.
What am I doing wrong? I'm using Hodgson H4831sc powder and I'm trying to do consistent actions when dumping the powder. I'm still learning reloading - just about used up my first pound of powder so if the powder I'm using is causing some of the issue I'm good to change to something else.
Click to expand...

You are aware that the dump is only to get you close as in within about a grain? Then you trickle up to the desired load.
Even with the micrometer metering stem there is always a variation from "throw to throw".
Hope that helps.
 
Do you have a baffle ?
small drum or large drum
what powder charge are you trying to throw ?
the small drum is more accurate for small rifle / pistol

using a baffle
I would add powder to measure
Tap/ shake it several times
throw about 5 --> just toss it back in to the hopper
then measure the 6
adjust /throw measure when you where you want to be check several in a row
 
I waxed the inside of mine with auto wax... helps stop powder from sticking. Also added a double baffel.Tried a single baffel first and it helped then I added another 90° to the first one for even better results. Then ran a hopper full of powder through to "season" things.
Also as mentioned consistent operation helps.
OP if you pm me your email I think I have a pdf of the baffel templates and instructions you can print and tape to your baffel material.. brass or aluminum sheet works well.
 
How consistent of a throw are you seeking? if the variations are 2-3 grains, it can be improved. if the variations are less then half a grain, well know you are seeing why people you need to trickle the last bit of the charge, or buy something like a charge master. Powder throwers can only be so accurate, and so consistent. They are built for speed, not accuracy.
 
I used a uniflo for some time, and always had to trickle powder. Then switched to a Lee Perfect Powder Measure, and found it a vast improvement.

Now am using the Lee Auto Drum for all my general loads, and never have to trickle powder. Best $50 you will ever spend.

I have a RCBS Chargemaster that gets used for cartridges such as 204 ruger, when I want more precision. But use the Auto Drum for the vast majority of loading.

So if your tired of binding, having to pick powders by what your powder measure tolerates, and would like to get out of the trickling business, you might want to give it a try. Personally I could not imagine having to use a RCBS Uniflo again.
 
Stop cleaning that hopper. You need to run a bit of powder through it to have enough powder residue to cover all parts in the hopper. After you done that it takes few throws to establish the charge. Keeping constant powder level in the hopper helps with consistency in each throw.
Ball powder is usually easier to meter than stick powder. May be change to that kind.
 
I find my RCBS Powder measure accurate with most powders, 2400, BE86 etc. But not so much with Bullseye. I use a different measure for that.

Consistent throws are important. Develop a rhythim with an even "click" at the top and bottom for each throw.
 
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Have to agree on using an inverted "V" baffle, keeping a consistent level of powder in the hopper, using a consistent technique to cycle the handle and drum, and sort of whacking the handle as it stops at either extreme.

I use all of these on my Redding competition powder measure and it is very precise and consistent.

Lyman powder measures use(d) a little cast iron tapper that you flipped a couple of times with your finger at the end of each case charge.
It rapped the measure body and dislodged any powder granules sticking by static charge in the drum cavity or feed tube below, and probably settled the powder in the hopper a bit as well.

Perhaps tapping the body of the measure once or twice with your finger after throwing the charge, while the case was still under the feed tube, would have a similar effect.
 
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Lots of misconceptions about powder measures.
Firstly, they were designed to load the correct charge of powder in the case, not to under load and trickle in the remainder. This idea of trickle in the charge only came about with the advent of the CGN. Until then we millions of reloaders used accurate powder measures and charged our cases. A standby powder measure was the Lyman Ideal #55. With the micrometer adjustment they were dead on accurate, in relation to the powder used. That is, ball powder would measure to less than a tenth of a grain, which is all the accuracy required for 100 yard bench rest shooting. I make this bold statement based on the fact that Warren Page used this same Lyman measure to help him win the US National Match Benchrest trophy nine times, and he states in his book, The Accurate Rifle, that he never weighed the charges for 100 yard bench rest competition shooting! He also states that he used the Lyman 55 measure.
With coarse powder, like 4350, it won't measure quite so dead on close, but close enough that the average shooter, using off the shelf rifle and shooting equipment, will never be able to prove that direct measuring of 4350 powder will be any less accurate than trickle fill up.
So many younger shooters on CGN make far too much of every little nuance they have ever heard of on shooting and over do most every thing.
Why not just enjoy yourself shooting?
 
H4831 said:
Lots of misconceptions about powder measures.
Firstly, they were designed to load the correct charge of powder in the case, not to under load and trickle in the remainder. This idea of trickle in the charge only came about with the advent of the CGN. Until then we millions of reloaders used accurate powder measures and charged our cases. A standby powder measure was the Lyman Ideal #55. With the micrometer adjustment they were dead on accurate, in relation to the powder used. That is, ball powder would measure to less than a tenth of a grain, which is all the accuracy required for 100 yard bench rest shooting. I make this bold statement based on the fact that Warren Page used this same Lyman measure to help him win the US National Match Benchrest trophy nine times, and he states in his book, The Accurate Rifle, that he never weighed the charges for 100 yard bench rest competition shooting! He also states that he used the Lyman 55 measure.
With coarse powder, like 4350, it won't measure quite so dead on close, but close enough that the average shooter, using off the shelf rifle and shooting equipment, will never be able to prove that direct measuring of 4350 powder will be any less accurate than trickle fill up.
So many younger shooters on CGN make far too much of every little nuance they have ever heard of on shooting and over do most every thing.
Why not just enjoy yourself shooting?
Click to expand...

I quite agree. Saying that a powder measure isn't supposed to measure the complete charge ( only to get close, and then trickle) is just a sign of a poor powder measure, and/or a bit of OCD. In my opinion the RCBS Uniflo is not a great measure, and is very poor with extruded powders.

My Lee Auto Drum will dispense powders like Varget within .1gr normally. But is still incredibly accurate with small charges of pistol powder. Just finished 2000 rounds of 9mm with 231. Every charge I checked was dead on. And you don't need to add extra baffles, tap the measure etc.
 
Thanks F. We didn't mention that a very important factor in accurate loads with a powder measure, is the operator.
A good operator gets the most out of the measure by smooth, even and consistent operation of the lever.
 
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