Re-barrelling

Smis Five Creedmoor said:
how does that even work with milsurp stuff? (Lee Enfields, etc)
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you put the receiver in a set of vice blocks, clamp a wrench around the barrel, and you unscrew the barrel from the receiver.

Then you screw a new barrel on. If its a milsurp with a front sight, you need to have it indexed right so it has the proper amount of torque so the front sight lines up with the receiver properly.

If not, its easier.

Barrel could be short chambered if its new, commercially made. Then you use a reamer to just touch it up til the bolt closes on a "go" gague.

Or you could go full custom on a new match barrel and reduce the end of the barrel to the right diameter and cut the proper threads on it for your receiver, cut a chamber for the cartridge of your choice, etc.
 
Joel said:
you put the receiver in a set of vice blocks, clamp a wrench around the barrel, and you unscrew the barrel from the receiver.

Then you screw a new barrel on. If its a milsurp with a front sight, you need to have it indexed right so it has the proper amount of torque so the front sight lines up with the receiver properly.

If not, its easier.

Barrel could be short chambered if its new, commercially made. Then you use a reamer to just touch it up til the bolt closes on a "go" gague.

Or you could go full custom on a new match barrel and reduce the end of the barrel to the right diameter and cut the proper threads on it for your receiver, cut a chamber for the cartridge of your choice, etc.
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I'm guessing how much you screw it in also depends on how much headspace you need?
 
Smis Five Creedmoor said:
I'm guessing how much you screw it in also depends on how much headspace you need?
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No, the barrel is cut with a shoulder at the end of the threads, and the shoulder seats on the receiver. For that configuration, torque is not used to set headspace. Savage, which uses a barrel nut, does set head space by how far in or out you screw the barrel before tightening the nut. But that system is unlikely to be used in a milsurp.
 
OP, you're asking a question with different answers pertaining to each individual.

Joel says to "clamp the receiver in blocks," which is not a good method, IMHO, for removing a barrel from a Lee Enfield action.

Today, some barrels are pre manufactured to fit just about any action out there, but instead of using a "shoulder'' on the tenon to set headspace, a "jam nut" is incorporated, so the barrel can be "screwed in" until headspace is within spec, or as tight as desired by the individual, then the jam nut is tightened against the face of the receiver.

It's a broad question, and you should look up the procedure online for more accurate answers.

Some barrels are held in place with locking lugs or set screws, depending on the cartridge or purpose of the rifle, some are even "press fit" into receivers.
 
bearhunter said:
OP, you're asking a question with different answers pertaining to each individual.

Joel says to "clamp the receiver in blocks," which is not a good method, IMHO, for removing a barrel from a Lee Enfield action.

Today, some barrels are pre manufactured to fit just about any action out there, but instead of using a "shoulder'' on the tenon to set headspace, a "jam nut" is incorporated, so the barrel can be "screwed in" until headspace is within spec, or as tight as desired by the individual, then the jam nut is tightened against the face of the receiver.

It's a broad question, and you should look up the procedure online for more accurate answers.

Some barrels are held in place with locking lugs or set screws, depending on the cartridge or purpose of the rifle, some are even "press fit" into receivers.
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Lee Enfields are all threaded, but they used a variety of thread angles and different manners in which the barrel shoulders against something to torque it in place.
 
You mention Lee Enfields. Receiver gripped with a receiver wrench, barrel in barrel vise.
Wrench MUST fit the receiver, otherwise there is a strong probability of damage. Similarly the barrel vise must hold the barrel securely so that it will not turn. Close fitting blocks, rosin or powdered sugar help.
Removing No. 4 LE barrels can be a challenge. SMLEs not so much.
In theory, a new issue replacement No. 4 barrel goes in hand tight, 14 degrees off index and then requires 120 ft. lb. of torque to bring the front sight to top dead center. But there are basically no new, issue replacement barrels.
LE barrel shanks are 1" diameter, 14tpi. But, being British, the threads are 55 degrees rather than the 60 degrees used in just about the rest of the world. No. 4 barrels torque against the receiver face, SMLE barrels against the inner receiver ring collar.
The Savage system, with barrel nut, allows a replacement barrel to have a finished chamber, and headspace is set by turning the barrel in to the gauge and then locking the barrel nut in place. Proper tools are still necessary.
 
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You're right, but there is absolutely no reason a "jam nut" can't be used to set headspace and tighten the barrel in place.

If you're insisting on keeping a sporter barrel with a "knox" form, then it can't happen, but if you're willing to go with the modern route, there's no reason a barrel fitted with a jam nut can't be attached to a Lee Enfield action.

It would certainly alleviate the "headspace issues" and correcting it by replacing bolt heads.

I wonder if the people designing the No4 and similar rifles back in the day wouldn't have gone for the option? It would certainly have simplified fitting, and decreased assembly costs and time.
 
bearhunter said:
OP, you're asking a question with different answers pertaining to each individual.

Joel says to "clamp the receiver in blocks," which is not a good method, IMHO, for removing a barrel from a Lee Enfield action.

Today, some barrels are pre manufactured to fit just about any action out there, but instead of using a "shoulder'' on the tenon to set headspace, a "jam nut" is incorporated, so the barrel can be "screwed in" until headspace is within spec, or as tight as desired by the individual, then the jam nut is tightened against the face of the receiver.

It's a broad question, and you should look up the procedure online for more accurate answers.

Some barrels are held in place with locking lugs or set screws, depending on the cartridge or purpose of the rifle, some are even "press fit" into receivers.
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You'e right. Sorry. I had a brain fart. Mind was in AR mode there. Barrel with bushings goes into vice blocks. Action wrench goes around action.
 
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Most gunsmiths use a barrel vise to hold the barrel and then an action wrench to hold the action. The barrel vise will use various bushing to match the barrel and action wrenches usually fit a particular style of action. If a barrel nut is used sometimes a second wrench is required to set the specifications correctly. The action wrench and the barrel vise holding the barrel where you want it and the nut wrench to tighten the nut.

Most factory barrels require a lot of force to 'break' loose.
 
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Well, the Savage system allows a finish chambered barrel to be used with final headspace being set by screwing the barrel in or out until it is correct on the gauge, and then tightening the locking collar.
This takes tools as well. I've used a barrel vise, collar wrench and receiver wrench. I set the barrel in place until it is just kissing the Go gauge and then tighten the collar. Then recheck with No Go and Go. Should accept the Go, not the No Go. Reset if necessary.
I find the process a bit fiddly; if I'm doing my own barrel, I will probably go with a shoulder on the barrel. But there are times when the Savage system has its uses.
 
Lee Enfield barrels are TIGHT , I rebarrelled a bubba modded No1 mk3 Lee enfield and I had to hang from the the 3 foot handle to get it to budge there was no rust just hella tight.
 
Some Rem 700 barrels were so tight I used an internal action wrench and two long bars... with my weight on one and pulling on the other... sounded like a shotgun went off when it 'broke' loose.
With P14/17 barrels it was easier to cut a relief just ahead of the receiver and with the joint pressure gone they removed easy.
 
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